Pioneer chainsaws

[tomdcoker]

Inside the clutch cover, there is a mechanism which turns that pushes on the decomp when you pull the rope. If you take off the recoil it's all there to see. Theres a yoke that rides on the starter pinion.

Thanks for the quick reply and information. Tom

 

[DSS]

 

[DSS]

Looks like a farmsaw with a farmsaw 2 recoil on it. Does the recoil work? Thats the weak point on these saws.

 

[tomdcoker]

Looks like a farmsaw with a farmsaw 2 recoil on it. Does the recoil work? Thats the weak point on these saws.

It works, but it does not recoil good. It is as I got it. I feel like the recoil probably needs a good cleaning. Tom

 

[DSS]

It works, but it does not recoil good. It is as I got it. I feel like the recoil probably needs a good cleaning. Tom

I can probably find some parts if you need any.

 

[tomdcoker]

I can probably find some parts if you need any.

I would Like to get it running, but it may be a while. I will keep you in mind for parts. Thanks Tom

 

[pioneerguy600]

I would Like to get it running, but it may be a while. I will keep you in mind for parts. Thanks Tom

Hi Tom,
If you would like to see some picts and read a description of the starter on the orange Farmsaw look up pages 46 and 47 in this thread, posts 695 and 696 show picts of the starter mechanism.

 

[tomdcoker]

Hi Tom,
If you would like to see some picts and read a description of the starter on the orange Farmsaw look up pages 46 and 47 in this thread, posts 695 and 696 show picts of the starter mechanism.

Thanks Jerry. Good to hear from you again. Tom

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thanks Jerry. Good to hear from you again. Tom

Tom it looks like your saw has the Farmlite starter side and airfilter cover on it. The starter mechanism is likely different than the one that comes with the orange cover. The flywheel was likely changed also.

 

[Luis Cabrita]

Pioneer 650 - Tillotson HL´s

Hi Luis,
Welcome to this site. The carb you have will run your 650 just fine, there is no difference in the size of the venturi of those two carbs, both have a 11/16 venturi. Is there some reason you need a 129A? I have some if you really , really need one.

Thanks for your welcome and info. Congratulations to you all for this wonderfull thread.
I´m a big fan of Pioneer saws from the 60´s and i´ve seen here very nice ones...

I tried to tune the 172B with mediocre results so i assumed the bores, venturi or needle where not indicated for the engine. Now i disassembled the saw for painting and only later i can confirm if it really suits.

On the other hand i checked the crankshaft seal (clutch side) and i may have a problem, especially because i can´t find this part anywhere to buy it. In Europe it´s a pain to get Pioneer parts.

Regarding the 129A, it would be nice to keep the saw like original, so please name your price. :cool2:

 

[tomdcoker]

Thanks Jerry. Good to hear from you again. Tom

Jerry I checked out the pictures in the thread you mentioned and my saw is just like the pictures. I did not think the saw had any compression because it pulled so free, but I put a little gas mix in the carb. and it crank and ran the gas out.
Would it be O K to disable the compression release to check the compression. Tom

 

[DSS]

Jerry I checked out the pictures in the thread you mentioned and my saw is just like the pictures. I did not think the saw had any compression because it pulled so free, but I put a little gas mix in the carb. and it crank and ran the gas out.
Would it be O K to disable the compression release to check the compression. Tom

I do it all the time. Just remove the U shaped rod.

 

[tomdcoker]

I do it all the time. Just remove the U shaped rod.

Thanks for the reply. Tom

 

[pioneerguy600]

Jerry I checked out the pictures in the thread you mentioned and my saw is just like the pictures. I did not think the saw had any compression because it pulled so free, but I put a little gas mix in the carb. and it crank and ran the gas out.
Would it be O K to disable the compression release to check the compression. Tom

You can actually ruin the starter actuator by disabling that decomp. I have seen many starter pinions and the engager stripped badly by trying to start them with the decomp disabled. It all depends on how much comp the saw has, if it still has strong compression it will strip the starter. Best bet is to remove the starter side and turn the engine over by using an electric drill run in reverse using an adapter and a socket on the flywheel nut, don`t use an impact driver, it will often back the nut off.

 

[tomdcoker]

You can actually ruin the stareter actuator by disabling that decomp. I have seen many starter pinions and the engager stripped badly by thying to start them with the decomp disabled. It all depends on how much comp the saw has, if it still has strong compression it will strip the starter. Best bet is to remove the starter side and turn the engine over by using an electric drill run in reverse using an adapter and a socket on the flywheel nut, don`t use an impact driver, it will often back the nut off.

Dumb question here. If I run it in reverse will the compression reading be true. Tom

 

[pioneerguy600]

Dumb question here. If I run it in reverse will the compression reading be true. Tom

It would make the same compression in either direction. Running the electric drill in reverse turns the engine in its normal operating direction, useful for starting a hard to start saw for diagnostic purposes but for just a compression test then either direction will give the same reading. Compression occours once the piston closes off the exhaust port and reaches top dead center.

 

[timberdollars]

I messed up and bought my first Pioneer "P42 Western"

I took the plunge and bought my first Pioneer. My Partners saws are going to be ######off. Might have to build another bench to keep them apart. Been lookin for awhile but nothing reasonable or interesting popped up. I don't have it yet but came from eBay but only 100 miles from me.
Its a P42 western, been used and has issues but a runner, Has a dual outlet muffer,
So whats different about the Western besides full wrap. And will a PP455 p/c bolt on? I hear its a one year only model 1983 before Poulan started them in pp series and orange paint.

Thanks
Duane

 

[DSS]

You can actually ruin the starter actuator by disabling that decomp. I have seen many starter pinions and the engager stripped badly by trying to start them with the decomp disabled. It all depends on how much comp the saw has, if it still has strong compression it will strip the starter. Best bet is to remove the starter side and turn the engine over by using an electric drill run in reverse using an adapter and a socket on the flywheel nut, don`t use an impact driver, it will often back the nut off.

I wasn't under the impression that he was going to try and start the saw with the decomp disabled. I wouldn't try and run one without it either with all those plastic pieces. But pulling the rope slowly three or four times to check compression is a different thing.

 

[Madsaw]

So who got the mislabled PP655 the other night on ebay? I wasn't pay close attention or it would be getting shipped here. It was listed as a PP455 but had duals dogs and manual oil pump.
Bob

 

[tomdcoker]

I wasn't under the impression that he was going to try and start the saw with the decomp disabled. I wouldn't try and run one without it either with all those plastic pieces. But pulling the rope slowly three or four times to check compression is a different thing.

I was going to use a gauge to cjeck compression. Tom