Pioneer chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I really like the way they are put together from what I have seen, and I haven't even scratched the surface. This one definitely is moving to the top of the list!

Well I have seen them and run them as my main saw since 1958 til 1985. I have been repairing them for also starting around 1963, there were no chainsaw mechanics in our local area so I self taught myself to work on them. I have worked on most models Pioneer made and the build quality is the same throughout the lineup. Some models were made as lower cost saws for landowners, farmers , homeowners etc, these models had some easily broken plastic parts on them like the airfilter covers on the smaller P series saws and the recoil assemblies on the Farmsaws. These saws can still be found cutting plenty of wood every year and a lot of Pioneer owners are still reluctant to give them up.
 
Boyesen should have the reed templates on record for the Pioneers. They made some up about 2 years ago.
The guy you talked to was correct about the westerns using the sdc 80 carb. That's why I suggested you put it on the 405. They are a great carb and blow away any wj. I try to put them on most of my P series. My P62 Western came with one, it was noticeably stronger than the rest of my P62's.

The Western never came original with 2 stage reeds or a dual port. That may have been a custom thing a certain shop in your area did.
 
Derek, you will have fun with the 650. I tore into a 610 a ways back, there interesting.

Nice that the 1073 still has a good cover on it and I still have a box of misc used parts for those little Pioneers in case you need anything. Did you ever get one of the 28's going?
 
Derek, you will have fun with the 650. I tore into a 610 a ways back, there interesting.

Nice that the 1073 still has a good cover on it and I still have a box of misc used parts for those little Pioneers in case you need anything. Did you ever get one of the 28's going?

I haven't...in addition to chasing the little ones around, last year would have made a good country song. Once my broken hand healed, my truck blew up while we were looking for a replacement for the wife's car. I found a truck over Christmas, and we just found the wife a car last week. I even got my Green Card application together and sent off (that was about a 6 month process) last week, so I finally will have some time to clean up the shop, stop whining, and get to work.

I decided that old '78 I had wasn't worth fixing up, so after 18 years, I finally gave in and bought a new truck. Ain't she pretty?

attachment.php


I did check compression on 2 of the 3 P28s, and a quick visual inventory suggests that I might even get 2 runners out of the parts that are there (MUCH appreciated). That said, the 650 will probably take priority...and I have yet to get started on that 71-A...


..or the Clinton d35C, the Homie 600D, the Mac 380, the Mall 2MG, the Lombard Comango, the David Bradley, the Poulan 361...

Damn. I'm off to clean the shop!
 
Need help!

Ok here's where i'm at... How do I clean and gap this set of points??? never worked on points systems before so I have no idea what I'm doing. If anyone could add arrows to this pic and tell me what to do with those pieces it would be greatly appreciated! This is a pioneer 1200... Oh and do you guys really still run 16:1 gas-oil mix in these like origionally called for???

pioneerpoints.jpg
 
Last edited:
Ok here's where i'm at... How do I clean and gap this set of points??? never worked on points systems before so I have no idea what I'm doing. If anyone could add arrows to this pic and tell me what to do with those pieces it would be greatly appreciated! This is a pioneer 1200... Oh and do you guys really still run 16:1 gas-oil mix in these like origionally called for???

pioneerpoints.jpg

Nine chances out of ten all you will need to do is remove the flywheel and file the points til they are nice and shiney new metal on the contacts. All the older points saws will get a coating of corrosion on the points contacts if they sit around for any length of time, especially in a cold or humid climate. You need to remove the points and use a small file on them, preferably a points file, remove all the dark stained corrosion from both contact surfaces, replace the points and set the gap at .015, that`s fifteen thou using a feeler gauge. Replace the flywheel and tighten the nut to 25-26 ft lbs to completely set the flywheel tight on the crank, replace the recoil and give it a try, you should now have spark.
 
Ok here's where i'm at... How do I clean and gap this set of points??? never worked on points systems before so I have no idea what I'm doing. If anyone could add arrows to this pic and tell me what to do with those pieces it would be greatly appreciated! This is a pioneer 1200... Oh and do you guys really still run 16:1 gas-oil mix in these like origionally called for???

attachment.php


I'll add the arrows to Pioneerguy's description. The contacts are indicated by the red arrow. If you turn the crankshaft, you will notice that a lobe moves the lifter indicated by the blue arrow, opening a gap between the contacts. Those are the contacts that have to be filed. When you take the points out, you will notice that one of the screw holes is widened to allow the adjustment for the gap. You set the gap with the lobe centered so that the points are open as wide as possible.

If you don't have a feeler gauge, most business cards are .015". If you want to double-check the card thickness, fold it in half, and compare the doubled edge to a credit card. They generally are 0.030".
 
attachment.php


I'll add the arrows to Pioneerguy's description. The contacts are indicated by the red arrow. If you turn the crankshaft, you will notice that a lobe moves the lifter indicated by the blue arrow, opening a gap between the contacts. Those are the contacts that have to be filed. When you take the points out, you will notice that one of the screw holes is widened to allow the adjustment for the gap. You set the gap with the lobe centered so that the points are open as wide as possible.

If you don't have a feeler gauge, most business cards are .015". If you want to double-check the card thickness, fold it in half, and compare the doubled edge to a credit card. They generally are 0.030".


Thanks, those arrows really help clarify verbal instructions.Also on the oil question, todays mix oils are very superior to the oil used when these chainsaws were made, today you can run 50:1 mix, just use a good quality mix oil from a known manufacturer made specifically for air cooled engines, you can`t go wrong using Stihl, Husqvarna or Dolmar mix oils in your saw. I personally run my saws using a 40:1 mix of Stihl dino oil and the ole girls really like it.
 
P42

Boyesen should have the reed templates on record for the Pioneers. They made some up about 2 years ago.
The guy you talked to was correct about the westerns using the sdc 80 carb. That's why I suggested you put it on the 405. They are a great carb and blow away any wj. I try to put them on most of my P series. My P62 Western came with one, it was noticeably stronger than the rest of my P62's.

The Western never came original with 2 stage reeds or a dual port. That may have been a custom thing a certain shop in your area did.

Your correct, about the Westerns, I figured he was talking about the muffler and reed installed in house, as every big saw they sell is modded, but this outfit sold ALOT!!! of them he said. In fact still has (1) new 41 Western never even fueled sitting there!!!! I'm working on it slowly!
My SDC 80 has a real bad throttle shaft and even has worn the outlet butterfly off on the sides. (so not round anymore) but idles fine but is getting closer to too high a idle, so I'm not switching it. I'll find a SDC 80 and put the two stage from the Western on the boost port saw.

I contacted Boyesen but no reply yet! think I'll cut my own using mine as a template.

Duane
 
Beer and saws

I'm pretty HAPPY now! I found the secrets out! I'm not to worried about the 455 thing, both these 405's are LIKE BRAND NEW!!! cylinders rings pistons spotless. There to nice to grind on or do anything too. The non boost port will go back together in the morning, the JB weld is drying today and tonight I used on the fuel tank window. The rings are great, in fact the new rings I have are even a tad wider on the gap? I using the old ones anyway.
Guess I'm hunting for a 455 carcass or 4 cube to convert still, one on feebay! my 455 piston is enroute. ( just hope it comes as a Boost Port version) didn't know about that issue till yesterday!

I contacted Boyesen today but no reply yet, Issue is I need the Material to make the reeds, like you said two thicknesses. I can use my 42 reeds as templates.

Too bad we're so far apart, If closer we could drink beer and race Pioneers!!!!! I have some nice 30" Maple


Duane

Sorry but I've been WOUND up over these I really like them!! Reed Valve Power "OH YAH"

Mmmm . . . beer. And 30" maple. My 655 is sitting here with a 32" roller tip with nothing to do until enough snow melts to get into the woods in June.

Did you see Arrowhead's post about the Westerns? Good info. - sounds like my Western was the normal one.
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys that really really helped! I have strong spark and compression now and will get to the carb tomorrow... I have one major problem!!!! The PO tried doing the points himself and didn't realize the flywheel nut is reverse threaded. Needless to say I need a flywheel nut very badly now! Anyone got a spare they could send to me or is that somthing I can get at the hardware store???? according to my oem IPL the part number is 427826 if that helps.
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys that really really helped! I have strong spark and compression now and will get to the carb tomorrow... I have one major problem!!!! The PO tried doing the points himself and didn't realize the flywheel nut is reverse threaded. Needless to say I need a flywheel nut very badly now! Anyone got a spare they could send to me or is that somthing I can get at the hardware store???? according to my oem IPL the part number is 427826 if that helps.

Usually you can preface the Pioneer pn with 507 and get some matches; not this time.
ChainSawr lists your pn here Chainsawr Pioneer.
HTH
Lou
 
Wife's anniversary

I'm proud of myself. I remembered that today was my wife's anniversary. I spent the whole day with her . . . except for a few minutes working on a buddy's saw.

Hillwilliam
 
405 versus Partner R series

Ok I've been cutting dawn to dark the last two days, and last week tried all my saws out with lots of time. All Maple, birch 18-40 inches.

My 405 boost port will NOT!!! cut as fast as my Ported Partner F65 (small cooling fin) or my ported P70. The Partners are VASTLY faster. All have same bars and new chain off the roll. 24" 3/8 (Older Carlton chisel full comp)
I could see the P70 as its 70cc but my Farmer F65a is 65cc, yes there both ported and put together by me as my Work saws but really!!!
The P42 Western and both Partners are all the same time and power wise, in the big wood, I tried everything but in STOCK form the 405 is nothing special, it will not hold high RPMs in the 24" stuff, and drops rpms lower than I want. I wound up using my Partners all day.
The new reeds and SDC 80 are in the works. As is some 455 boost port parts.

I have pictures later.

Duane
 
Ok I've been cutting dawn to dark the last two days, and last week tried all my saws out with lots of time. All Maple, birch 18-40 inches.

My 405 boost port will NOT!!! cut as fast as my Ported Partner F65 (small cooling fin) or my ported P70. The Partners are VASTLY faster. All have same bars and new chain off the roll. 24" 3/8 (Older Carlton chisel full comp)
I could see the P70 as its 70cc but my Farmer F65a is 65cc, yes there both ported and put together by me as my Work saws but really!!!
The P42 Western and both Partners are all the same time and power wise, in the big wood, I tried everything but in STOCK form the 405 is nothing special, it will not hold high RPMs in the 24" stuff, and drops rpms lower than I want. I wound up using my Partners all day.
The new reeds and SDC 80 are in the works. As is some 455 boost port parts.

I have pictures later.

Duane

Well, maybe you did some very good porting on the Partners! Interesting that the ol' P42 keeps up - not too surprised, though. Wish you had my P45s (or 455s) to try out. Even the one I didn't tinker on runs purty well. The stock one has a sdc 21-85, and the other one has the sdc A-5 80 from the ole P42; maybe they are the same basic carb. I don't know my Wabro #s like I should. Still think my old P42 felt faster. It pulled a 28" semi-skip chisel/ chisel with 7-tooth five days a week, at 10,000' for a long time. I don't remember it being beat in a comp. in the 4-cube class in those days. (That was then, I know. And maybe I'm remembering wrong.) The only thing I would change for racing was to use a 24" roller tip and the best chain I could build.

I think you're right about the next thing(s) to try. The carb is the main thing we know is different from the 405s. I know you'll keep us posted.

Dang it, if I knew yesterday was my anniversary too, I woulda celebrated!

Jack
 
Pioneer

Well, maybe you did some very good porting on the Partners! Interesting that the ol' P42 keeps up - not too surprised, though. Wish you had my P45s (or 455s) to try out. Even the one I didn't tinker on runs purty well. The stock one has a sdc 21-85, and the other one has the sdc A-5 80 from the ole P42; maybe they are the same basic carb. I don't know my Wabro #s like I should. Still think my old P42 felt faster. It pulled a 28" semi-skip chisel/ chisel with 7-tooth five days a week, at 10,000' for a long time. I don't remember it being beat in a comp. in the 4-cube class in those days. (That was then, I know. And maybe I'm remembering wrong.) The only thing I would change for racing was to use a 24" roller tip and the best chain I could build.

I think you're right about the next thing(s) to try. The carb is the main thing we know is different from the 405s. I know you'll keep us posted.

Dang it, if I knew yesterday was my anniversary too, I woulda celebrated!

Jack

OH YES!!! I caught the whole "MY WIFE's ANNIVERSARY" part, funny!!

Well my 455 parts are enroute for something? what i'm not sure yet. I'll just keep going on these Pioneers till I'm happy. My P42 pulls a 28" fine too. I also have a used good P/C coming for my P42 along with spare coils should make it a top performer!

Duane
 
42/ 455

OH YES!!! I caught the whole "MY WIFE's ANNIVERSARY" part, funny!!

Well my 455 parts are enroute for something? what i'm not sure yet. I'll just keep going on these Pioneers till I'm happy. My P42 pulls a 28" fine too. I also have a used good P/C coming for my P42 along with spare coils should make it a top performer!

Duane

You should be in business for a good long time with your P-series. I'm sure you'll figure something out for the 455. Then you can tell us how it compares w/ the good ol' P42 Western.

jack
 

Latest posts

Back
Top