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The 500 is open port and the 5000+ is closed. That's where the power difference is.


Usually. There doesn't seem to be any hard and fast rules. I've torn down 5000's that were open port. Some have windowed pistons, some don't. Did they just use whatever they had in the bins??
 
I have two open port 5000's and one closed port. The open port saws have the metal brake so are early ones. They sure run well - a lot better than my 500's so thay must have different cylinder porting.
 
Usually. There doesn't seem to be any hard and fast rules. I've torn down 5000's that were open port. Some have windowed pistons, some don't. Did they just use whatever they had in the bins??

That`s about it as far as I can tell, I have seen them just as you described and they all work very well. I do find the closed ported windowed piston saws have the most power but these saws actually like to rev. I have a couple of 323`s that have just a little more grunt while having fast cutting speeds.The Jonsered 590 that I have is also a closed port windowed piston saw, from what I have read they are supposed to be open ported and the 490 closed port. Seems like there is always an exception to every supposed rule.
 
Usually. There doesn't seem to be any hard and fast rules. I've torn down 5000's that were open port. Some have windowed pistons, some don't. Did they just use whatever they had in the bins??

The 500 is an open port. The 5000+ is a closed port. The 5000 can be either depending on age.
Any other combinations were switched by the owner or saw tech at some point.
 
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Carl, They are RH threads. Would you like a service manual? Get one here.

Pioneer Service Manual - Farmsaw_S P41 P51 P61.pdf

If you want me to e-mail it to you instead PM me your e-mail address. File size is 21.7 MB

Tim

Got it. Thanks a bunch.

Got him down to the crankcase assembly. The bearing outer races are loose in the housing. Going to tare down the second one to see if he is any better.
 
I have P-41 #2 down to trying to get the flywheel off. But, it isn't happening. My Craftsman steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller cranked down tight and whuping it with a B.F.H..

Goint to try heat and, if that don't work, drilling a relief hole alongside the crank.

Thin rings are an understatement. .0235" thick. Yikes! And, I think they are steel.
 
I have P-41 #2 down to trying to get the flywheel off. But, it isn't happening. My Craftsman steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller cranked down tight and whuping it with a B.F.H..



Goint to try heat and, if that don't work, drilling a relief hole alongside the crank.



Thin rings are an understatement. .0235" thick. Yikes! And, I think they are steel.


I don't know why, but a 41 is a beetch to get a flywheel off. You'll have to heat it for sure. Good luck.
 
I don't know why, but a 41 is a beetch to get a flywheel off. You'll have to heat it for sure. Good luck.

Darn betcha it was tight. Drilled two holes 90 deg from the key about 1/2" deep. Used my breaker bar to wrap it up tight with the puller chucked in the vise. Still had to go to the B.F.H. to get it to pop. Yikes!

Tips on seperating the case halves? Removing the oiler drive worm?
 
Darn betcha it was tight. Drilled two holes 90 deg from the key about 1/2" deep. Used my breaker bar to wrap it up tight with the puller chucked in the vise. Still had to go to the B.F.H. to get it to pop. Yikes!

Tips on seperating the case halves? Removing the oiler drive worm?

I have never spilt my cases so can't help you there. The oiler gear is a press fit on the crank. It is fragile. I got mine off by carefully prying the gear off with a couple of screw drivers. pry only from the back, not in the threads as it is threaded on the inside as well and you may split it.
Before you take it off, measure carefully from the end of the crank to a mark on the gear so you know exactly how far to push it on when reinstalling it. It is a tight fit and I did find it usefull to heat the gear up before installing it.
 
P-41 questions.

I have both P-41s broke down completely and now have some questions.

Crankcase gasket..............................Rottman Sales or Evilbay or? Maybe a 'set'?

The case with the loose bearing bores is the cleanest. The other one is tight, like it is supposed to be, but, the fuel compartment is crappy with 'white death'. Which one to use?

A slip fit for the bearing outer ring is not that bad of a deal in a housing stationary/shaft rotating application. (What little I remember from when I 'worked' for a living.)

Bearings and seals I can get locally. Extra internal clearence in the bearings? I think standard bearings may be too tight for 7000 rpm.

Which air filter setup is considered better? The one piece plastic job or the flat felt with the rubber boot/diaper?

Thanks fellas.

Carl.
 
I have both P-41s broke down completely and now have some questions.

Crankcase gasket..............................Rottman Sales or Evilbay or? Maybe a 'set'?

The case with the loose bearing bores is the cleanest. The other one is tight, like it is supposed to be, but, the fuel compartment is crappy with 'white death'. Which one to use?

A slip fit for the bearing outer ring is not that bad of a deal in a housing stationary/shaft rotating application. (What little I remember from when I 'worked' for a living.)

Bearings and seals I can get locally. Extra internal clearence in the bearings? I think standard bearings may be too tight for 7000 rpm.

Which air filter setup is considered better? The one piece plastic job or the flat felt with the rubber boot/diaper?

Thanks fellas.

Carl.

I got a gasket kit which included seals on the bay last year, I think it was like 15 bucks.

You don't have much to work with on cases. I believe someone, locktite maybe, makes a bearing retainer for such problems. White death in the fuel tank ain't good either, but its better IMO than bearings spinning in the bores. Which they no doubt will do and cause an air leak among other things.

You need C-3 bearings. They are looser than standard C-2 ones to deal with heat expansion.

I like the felt filter and rubber air box boot. It has more filter area. Harder to clean of course.
 
I have both P-41s broke down completely and now have some questions.

Crankcase gasket..............................Rottman Sales or Evilbay or? Maybe a 'set'?

The case with the loose bearing bores is the cleanest. The other one is tight, like it is supposed to be, but, the fuel compartment is crappy with 'white death'. Which one to use?

A slip fit for the bearing outer ring is not that bad of a deal in a housing stationary/shaft rotating application. (What little I remember from when I 'worked' for a living.)

Bearings and seals I can get locally. Extra internal clearence in the bearings? I think standard bearings may be too tight for 7000 rpm.

Which air filter setup is considered better? The one piece plastic job or the flat felt with the rubber boot/diaper?

Thanks fellas.

Carl.

Carl,

Get some Locite green retaining compound. We used it at work for the loose bearings on the drive shaft of a 1600 ton press, That's how good the stuff is. I think Permatex owns them now and their site has good info on the applications for each retaining compound
 
here she is, P42 Western with dual exhaust muffler, full wrap etc. 28" windsor bar. straight from Montana. I am one happy CAD guy. Piston looks great but does have carbon build up in the exhaust port. it is better than i expected for sure.


Nice looking unit

280193-img-20130219-00199-jpg

280192d1361318827-img-20130219-00200-jpg
 

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