Pioneer chainsaws

[hillwilliam]

If possible, someone post a full size scan of the crankcase gasket. That way, we can print it and cut it out for a pattern. Would make cutting out one from scratch soo much easier.

There is a gasket on Evil-Bay for a Farmsaw for about ten toadskins right now. Should be the same.

 

[hillwilliam]

here she is, P42 Western with dual exhaust muffler, full wrap etc. 28" windsor bar. straight from Montana. I am one happy CAD guy. Piston looks great but does have carbon build up in the exhaust port. it is better than i expected for sure.

View attachment 280192View attachment 280193

One of my favorite saws. Mine pulled a 28-incher for several years in the woods and a 24-incher in comps. Never did figure out why it was so fast; my mods were minimal.

 

[67L36Driver]

There is a gasket on Evil-Bay for a Farmsaw for about ten toadskins right now. Should be the same.

Thanks bud. My search criteria missed it earlier.

This time I used 'Farmsaw' and found it.

We will scan him and post it when it gets here so folks can make patterns.

Carl.

 

[Acornhill]

Thanks bud. My search criteria missed it earlier.

This time I used 'Farmsaw' and found it.

We will scan him and post it when it gets here so folks can make patterns.

Carl. Yes because $10.00 for a cylinder gasket is upsurd!! but really just lay the gasket material over the cylinder and trace it out. or better yet lay trace paper over the cylinder and trace it out. i know in some cases it is imppossible. :msp_smile:

 

[fossil]

Thanks bud. My search criteria missed it earlier.

This time I used 'Farmsaw' and found it.

We will scan him and post it when it gets here so folks can make patterns.

Carl. Yes because $10.00 for a cylinder gasket is upsurd!! but really just lay the gasket material over the cylinder and trace it out. or better yet lay trace paper over the cylinder and trace it out. i know in some cases it is imppossible. :msp_smile:

A good way is to thinly coat the gasket surface of the cylinder with something like oil that will mark a thin piece of chipboard (a piece from a cereal box, beer carton) and then cut around the stain on the chipboard with a sharp knife and use that as a template.

 

[pioneerguy600]

A good way is to thinly coat the gasket surface of the cylinder with something like oil that will mark a thin piece of chipboard (a piece from a cereal box, beer carton) and then cut around the stain on the chipboard with a sharp knife and use that as a template.

Or use Prussian Blue .

 

[fossil]

Or use Prussian Blue .

That would be perfect if you have some.

 

[67L36Driver]

You guys missed it. I was looking for a crankcase gasket not the cylinder base gasket.

Way more complicated and tedious to make.

Heh, this makes only the second gasket I actually bought rather than make one.:msp_thumbsup:

I eliminate cylinder base gaskets as S.O.P..

 

[pioneerguy600]

That would be perfect if you have some.

Guess its not everybody that has tubes of that icky blue in their tool chest. Every one on here knows how to tap out a gasket?

 

[DSS]

You guys missed it. I was looking for a crankcase gasket not the cylinder base gasket.



Way more complicated and tedious to make.



Heh, this makes only the second gasket I actually bought rather than make one.:msp_thumbsup:



I eliminate cylinder base gaskets as S.O.P..

Yeah. I knew that

 

[DSS]

Guess its not everybody that has tubes of that icky blue in their tool chest. Every one on here knows how to tap out a gasket?

Yeah, I make them at work for hot oil lines. Old guy showed me years ago. I had never seen anyone make a gasket with a ball pein hammer before

 

[67L36Driver]

Guess its not everybody that has tubes of that icky blue in their tool chest. Every one on here knows how to tap out a gasket?

Yup, make them that way also but, it always slips and you get a 'do over'.:bang:

 

[pioneerguy600]

Yeah, I make them at work for hot oil lines. Old guy showed me years ago. I had never seen anyone make a gasket with a ball pein hammer before

First gaskets I ever made around the logging camp I was living at the one half experienced mill mechanic who was a lifetime steam engine man showed me how to cut a gasket with a ball peen hammer. I just modified that technique through the years to cut hundreds of gaskets for many-many applications. When I first started working in the machine shop I was introduced to Prussian Blue. I only tap the paper nowadays to transfer, telegraph, the outline of the part needing the gasket.I have a huge roll of that waxed one side brown paper that the old time stores used to wrap your purchases in, that stuff makes dandy pattern /transfer patterns . I put tight fitting pins/nails/screws through the paper into the holes that connect the parts together, this locates the holes for later but also keeps the paper in place while tapping lightly along the outlines of the part, just like magic the outlines appear and stay there. When I cut out the template for the gasket I leave connector pieces if there are projection pieces that project out into a cavity that could go adrift if they were cleanly cut out altogether like the finger that projects out on most automotive water pumps and some saw cases have parts that are subject to shifting about if all the surrounding material is cut away completely.
Today if anyone is looking for that brown waxed paper it is sold at building supply outlets, called Scutan, for use under nailed down hardwood floors.

 

[fossil]

First gaskets I ever made around the logging camp I was living at the one half experienced mill mechanic who was a lifetime steam engine man showed me how to cut a gasket with a ball peen hammer. I just modified that technique through the years to cut hundreds of gaskets for many-many applications. When I first started working in the machine shop I was introduced to Prussian Blue. I only tap the paper nowadays to transfer, telegraph, the outline of the part needing the gasket.I have a huge roll of that waxed one side brown paper that the old time stores used to wrap your purchases in, that stuff makes dandy pattern /transfer patterns . I put tight fitting pins/nails/screws through the paper into the holes that connect the parts together, this locates the holes for later but also keeps the paper in place while tapping lightly along the outlines of the part, just like magic the outlines appear and stay there. When I cut out the template for the gasket I leave connector pieces if there are projection pieces that project out into a cavity that could go adrift if they were cleanly cut out altogether like the finger that projects out on most automotive water pumps and some saw cases have parts that are subject to shifting about if all the surrounding material is cut away completely.
Today if anyone is looking for that brown waxed paper it is sold at building supply outlets, called Scutan, for use under nailed down hardwood floors.

Thanks for sharing that

 

[Lou]

I'll echo a thanks too.
Have you ever tried rubber cement? It should hold your paper in place, allow you to peel the paper off, then be easily rolled off the pattern and finished gasket. I've not tried this but see no reason it wouldn't work.
Lou

 

[Showme]

P39 arrived today. I think it looks pretty good. View attachment 280339

 

[7hpjim]

p39 arrived today. I think it looks pretty good. View attachment 280339

good looking 39, is that an feepay score?

 

[Showme]

Yes it is. Certainly not cheap but condition won me over.

 

[Acornhill]

P39 arrived today. I think it looks pretty good. View attachment 280339

Shelf queen :msp_smile:

 

[Showme]

P39 arrived today. I think it looks pretty good. View attachment 280339

Shelf queen :msp_smile:

I think that's been it's life. It'll be fun to run on occasion but I'm sure I won't be the one to wear it out. I'm a geezer!