Pulling out recoil before turning off old saws?

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Chainsaw Collectors

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I’ve never seen it done in person nor have I ever done it with my vintage saws. I see on YouTube tho many folks say it’s important to on Vinateg saws pull the rope out a little bit before shutting it off. Is this actually important? Should I be doing it? Why? Thanks for your time.
 
I've seen this on YouTube frequently shutting off old McCullochs, I assume because sometimes when you shut them down the engine will "kick back" from the compression on the last revolution and potentially break the recoil?

I suppose the idea is that the handle can easily pull out of your hand instead of something breaking. I've never done this but have been wondering about it on my old saws....
 
theres some saws [eg some pioneer p series and farmsaws] that will get a f'd up starter doin that

i dont bother on any saws

edit; the 1074 you have is another
have a look at its starter n how it works
Yep, and I don't think I'd do this with any saw with a Fairbanks Morse style starter.
 
I’ve never seen it done in person nor have I ever done it with my vintage saws. I see on YouTube tho many folks say it’s important to on Vinateg saws pull the rope out a little bit before shutting it off. Is this actually important? Should I be doing it? Why? Thanks for your time.
Other will be along for comment. Yes, it serves a purpose, might benefit saw longevity.

It involves understanding the mechanics of things. The recoil functions in spinning flywheel CCW so is 'locked' rotation in CW direction with rope coiled onto spool (unless vintage gear reducer, which typically CW, but different subject).

This is usually non-issue for Stihl saws. Stihl employee starter pawls which extend from the recoil spool assembly. All the mechanism is contained in recoil & isolated from a running saw / spinning flywheel. Do not it on these Stihl type configurations. Just produces a unhealthy plastic grinding noise by wrong use. Likely longterm damage but Utube frequently show Stihl owners doing the wrong thing.

The common vintage Husqvarna, Poulan, Homelite, etc will have spring loaded Starter Pawls attached to a flywheel stud post. The spring element works to automatically engage at stopped condition. Flips pawls into recoil drive to make the starter rotation possible. So this is the key mechanics. Those/these recoil design type. Springed Pawls mounted to flywheel.

When saw starts the spring-pawls have a second primary function. Centrifugal force 'flies' the pawls out away from the recoil drive. Protects recoil pieces from damage. Returns to engagement when engine stopped.

Transition from Run to Stop is the matter around pulling out rope when shutting off saw. (Read except Stihl types recoils). Shutdown causes the saw to decelerate with compression stroke (air pump brake so to speak). When rotational speed approaches zero, those springed pawls sudden engage the recoil drive. Rigid steel pawls wanting to grab the recoil drive. No issue while engine rotates forward (CCW) as radius side of the pawls skate over the starter drive. All good... okay.

But, introduce that cylinder combustion builds each stroke while shutting down. Think of the air pump. If combustion peaks just immediately before stopping flywheel rotation, this energy want to propel engine direction backwards for a moment. The 'energy' has no where to disperse other than forces on the recoil. Reverse rotation being locked by the recoil. The energy must distribute into rope stretch, rope handle deflection, or recoil parts deflection. That takes a toll eventually on your recoil... might break rope or break recoil. So this is the caution for vintage saws. If recoil & bits are all No Longer Available, then better to save abuse on the recoil. Pull rope 3" - 4" when shutting off. Do It & you'll learn why. No every time but quite often the rope will tug on your hand. You're gently absorbing the energy of back rotation pulse.

The spongy Stihl rope & handle setup may yield some help as energy absorber. Imo, not enough alone.

Also, this same mechanics is why to remove recoil before servicing your clutch. Don't accidentally put clutch torque or impact gun loads against locked recoil. Use an appropriate piston stop. Else impact & pull rope out just as shutting down saws.
 
I had a brushcutter spool that holds the cord split. Since then if a device makes the cord get tight upon shut down often or powerfully I do it. Not really practical on a brushcutter unless you disconnect it form the harness. I suppose if you have vintage stuff it is worse than having to order another plastic spool.
 
Other will be along for comment. Yes, it serves a purpose, might benefit saw longevity.

It involves understanding the mechanics of things. The recoil functions in spinning flywheel CCW so is 'locked' rotation in CW direction with rope coiled onto spool (unless vintage gear reducer, which typically CW, but different subject).

This is usually non-issue for Stihl saws. Stihl employee starter pawls which extend from the recoil spool assembly. All the mechanism is contained in recoil & isolated from a running saw / spinning flywheel. Do not it on these Stihl type configurations. Just produces a unhealthy plastic grinding noise by wrong use. Likely longterm damage but Utube frequently show Stihl owners doing the wrong thing.

The common vintage Husqvarna, Poulan, Homelite, etc will have spring loaded Starter Pawls attached to a flywheel stud post. The spring element works to automatically engage at stopped condition. Flips pawls into recoil drive to make the starter rotation possible. So this is the key mechanics. Those/these recoil design type. Springed Pawls mounted to flywheel.

When saw starts the spring-pawls have a second primary function. Centrifugal force 'flies' the pawls out away from the recoil drive. Protects recoil pieces from damage. Returns to engagement when engine stopped.

Transition from Run to Stop is the matter around pulling out rope when shutting off saw. (Read except Stihl types recoils). Shutdown causes the saw to decelerate with compression stroke (air pump brake so to speak). When rotational speed approaches zero, those springed pawls sudden engage the recoil drive. Rigid steel pawls wanting to grab the recoil drive. No issue while engine rotates forward (CCW) as radius side of the pawls skate over the starter drive. All good... okay.

But, introduce that cylinder combustion builds each stroke while shutting down. Think of the air pump. If combustion peaks just immediately before stopping flywheel rotation, this energy want to propel engine direction backwards for a moment. The 'energy' has no where to disperse other than forces on the recoil. Reverse rotation being locked by the recoil. The energy must distribute into rope stretch, rope handle deflection, or recoil parts deflection. That takes a toll eventually on your recoil... might break rope or break recoil. So this is the caution for vintage saws. If recoil & bits are all No Longer Available, then better to save abuse on the recoil. Pull rope 3" - 4" when shutting off. Do It & you'll learn why. No every time but quite often the rope will tug on your hand. You're gently absorbing the energy of back rotation pulse.

The spongy Stihl rope & handle setup may yield some help as energy absorber. Imo, not enough alone.

Also, this same mechanics is why to remove recoil before servicing your clutch. Don't accidentally put clutch torque or impact gun loads against locked recoil. Use an appropriate piston stop. Else impact & pull rope out just as shutting down saws.
Fantastic and clear explanation. Thanks for the effort to put this together.
 
It involves understanding the mechanics of things.
Recently I saw a YouTube video (forgot by whom) that gave a good explanation and a simple clue: If you slowly release your starter rope and it makes a clicking sound - give the starter slack when turning off the saw. If it winds up smoothly without clicking - you're good to go.
 

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