Rare Grafted Elms
- Thread starter PinkFloydEffect
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PinkFloydEffect
ArboristSite Guru
I still have lots of unsolved problems like the smaller rot area??
There is a passage in some hollow sounding bark that dosen't look good:
Lots of lost limbs from the past, some of the edges of their calluses look like the larger graft meet rot area so I am wondering if my "graft rejection" theory is wrong and there was a lower limb there.
This one was the power company 5-10 years ago:
December... the Camperdowns are the LAST to drop their leaves (literally first or second frost)
There is a passage in some hollow sounding bark that dosen't look good:
Lots of lost limbs from the past, some of the edges of their calluses look like the larger graft meet rot area so I am wondering if my "graft rejection" theory is wrong and there was a lower limb there.
This one was the power company 5-10 years ago:
December... the Camperdowns are the LAST to drop their leaves (literally first or second frost)
bsearcey
ArboristSite Operative
I like the tree more without leaves. The branching is ridiculous.
M.D. Vaden
vadenphotography.com
Agreed, the branching is rediculous.
They are becoming more uncommon out here all the time, understandably.
Although, I prefer one of them to a weeping cherry.
Pink,
Truly enjoyed your thread. Keep up the good work.
Truly enjoyed your thread. Keep up the good work.
PinkFloydEffect
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks guys, actually I do a lot of amateur film making and these trees have inspired me. So I'm going to try and make the time to shoot some scenes of all the notable Camperdowns in my town using a camera dolly and blend summer shots into winter shots with no leafs.
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PinkFloydEffect
ArboristSite Guru
Help?
It's that time again, spring! This is when I need to take on my elm leaf miner problem, so what I was able to grasp is to spray the leaves before they get munched on so the leaf miners will eat the poison. I am limited on equipment so I will be hand climbing the tree along with the use of latters to spray the foliage with some sort of a back pack sprayer.
What do I use?? The best I was able to research last year is to use Criterion 75 WSP Insecticide (replaces Merit 75)
There seems to also be a root drench method, maybe combine both methods to be effective?
It's that time again, spring! This is when I need to take on my elm leaf miner problem, so what I was able to grasp is to spray the leaves before they get munched on so the leaf miners will eat the poison. I am limited on equipment so I will be hand climbing the tree along with the use of latters to spray the foliage with some sort of a back pack sprayer.
What do I use?? The best I was able to research last year is to use Criterion 75 WSP Insecticide (replaces Merit 75)
There seems to also be a root drench method, maybe combine both methods to be effective?
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I would go with just the drench of Imidicloprid, though i think that should have been done last fall for best uptake.
When i was treating, ten years ago, we would have used Orthene. Is it still available??
When i was treating, ten years ago, we would have used Orthene. Is it still available??
PinkFloydEffect
ArboristSite Guru
I don't know man pesticides aren't my thing. All I know is I have got to make some sort of attempt before they start munching. This is a historic tree fading away.
PinkFloydEffect
ArboristSite Guru
The new shoots are large this year, after it is treated for leaf miners I will be able to take cuttings.
This must be the eggs or something, the poor tree is COVERED in them!
The attack has begun, but it has not broken out like this everywhere yet, so I'm assuming I should give it more time before application of Talstar?
This must be the eggs or something, the poor tree is COVERED in them!
The attack has begun, but it has not broken out like this everywhere yet, so I'm assuming I should give it more time before application of Talstar?
PinkFloydEffect
ArboristSite Guru
Not doing too good here people! Untreated as is there are less leaf miners this year (not sure if that is because of the canopy level raise). But on the flip side I am having horrible lower trunk problems (not sure if that is because of the exposed crotch now after the canopy raise).
This spot is new, you see I don't know if the tree is just fluxing from overall weakness or maybe some of these areas are wounds that did not heal correctly/fast enough, became soft and took on insects/borers and THOSE are what is causing the fluxing (I think it's flux, the ants and bees seem to like it so it must be sweet)
The limb the power company removed 5+ years ago is also looking pretty dank, I don't know what to do! Clearly it can not do it on it's own:
This is the mysterious small fluxing area from last year, looking worse this year...
This spot is new, you see I don't know if the tree is just fluxing from overall weakness or maybe some of these areas are wounds that did not heal correctly/fast enough, became soft and took on insects/borers and THOSE are what is causing the fluxing (I think it's flux, the ants and bees seem to like it so it must be sweet)
The limb the power company removed 5+ years ago is also looking pretty dank, I don't know what to do! Clearly it can not do it on it's own:
This is the mysterious small fluxing area from last year, looking worse this year...
PinkFloydEffect
ArboristSite Guru
These are what I believe to be borer holes in the deadwood of the largest wound??
There is this dead beetle on the opposite side of the tree, MUCH larger than any hole (like a huge bumble bee)
There is this dead beetle on the opposite side of the tree, MUCH larger than any hole (like a huge bumble bee)
PinkFloydEffect
ArboristSite Guru
Awwwwwww CHIT!
Stupid ass fluckin gas company "UNITIL" found a leak in their century old pipeline running to the house. I really had it out with them until the officer directing traffic stepped in and asked if there were any problems. The town is the one who hacked a limb off without leaving a collar and now there are serious problems. I saw the backhoe shaking the tree from down the street at my grandparents and I was down there like a fly on a piece of chit.
Stupid ass fluckin gas company "UNITIL" found a leak in their century old pipeline running to the house. I really had it out with them until the officer directing traffic stepped in and asked if there were any problems. The town is the one who hacked a limb off without leaving a collar and now there are serious problems. I saw the backhoe shaking the tree from down the street at my grandparents and I was down there like a fly on a piece of chit.
PinkFloydEffect
ArboristSite Guru
I'm so mad, if this tree dies I'm completely destroying the company name and going after the town. This is the healthy side of the tree and I probably wont be able to cut those roots, it's already under stress so if it died they would be paying for the full removal. If this was a historically protected tree I could have acted, I mean... it IS historical but there is no way to protect it. Will this affect using pesticides now?
Ed Roland
Addicted to ArboristSite
Fall application of immidacloprid for the leaf miner issue? Stressed trees are even more susceptible to infection and infestation. Be sure to follow the label.
It would be worth the effort to dig out the soil to make those proper cuts on the torn roots. Think of all that ragged torn surface area allowing all kinds of free entry to unwanted organisms.
PinkFloydEffect
ArboristSite Guru
I don't think I can legally dig their gas line back up. I sent them down to the local farm to grab a bunch of bags of natural compost/manure mix, hopefully it will help. Also the pesticide I planned on applying this week I misread the label it says "spring-fall" so that must mean THROUGH, the only problem with that is I am not supposed to water it too often as to not delude the pesticide faster than the tree can use it, so how am I going to keep it well hydrated now?
Sorry to see the tree you worked so hard on getting put through so much stress. 
Ed Roland
Addicted to ArboristSite
Not all the way down to the gas line just to the roots. Take off the 10 - 12" of soil to the roots and clean up the cuts, fill the soil back in. 20 minutes and you have done much good.
Imidacloprid takes time to be absorbed and then move throughout the tissues so we apply it well before its needed as stated on label.
"I am not supposed to water it too often as to not delude the pesticide faster than the tree can use it" Could the label be referring to a saturated soil at time of application when it speaks of dilution? You want the soil to be wet not saturated. After chemical uptake, water the tree as needed. Its imidacloprids water solubility that allows it to move in sap throughout a tree.
