Rear Shocks

[North by Northwest]

Are these what you are talking about:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...LDFGmMno9ptKhOkmad71S3BuHAIH39SvDCks05ItyXg==

I was thinking about these:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=515170&cc=1441427&pt=7556&jsn=324
Only a little more and maybe they'd handle loads better? Thoughts?

34515 are the Magnum I was referring to . I have used them on numerous vehicles , good for at least 7 yrs on my 2500 . The adjustible ( spring rate ) coil over shocks are another valid option if not overpriced , your call .

 

[djg james]

34515 are the Magnum I was referring to . I have used them on numerous vehicles , good for at least 7 yrs on my 2500 . The adjustible ( spring rate ) coil over shocks are another valid option if not overpriced , your call .

$20-26 a pair more. But maybe I don't need the extra support.

 

[North by Northwest]

$20-26 a pair more. But maybe I don't need the extra support.

Small price to pay for the overall adjustibility and extra load range capability . Like I said have used the Yellow Gas Magnum previously on both a F-150 Super cab & my current Ram 2500 & previous 1500 Power Wagon . Shocks are usually advised to be replaced @ 5 yr intervals . Otherwise tire wear could noticed .

 

[user 172763]

Any ideas and any way to make sure my shocks are bad?

You can jack up the rear end to take the load off, disconnect the bottom shock point. If you can push the shock up by hand, or it's leaking oil, it's bad.

While your shocks are probably bad if you've loaded tons of weight in the bed, that's not what typically causes "clunking" noise in the vehicle. Shocks are not what supports the weight of the vehicle. Bushings as mentioned before would be my first guess without being able to look at it. U-joints, you can test by climbing under there and trying to rotate your drive shaft back and forth for play.

It sounds like you are bottoming out over the bumps, which would make me look at your leaf springs. Measure from the center of your wheel to the bottom of the wheel well (body) on both sides, are they the same distance?

You had to have your frame welded, was that due to corrosion, accident or what?

If you can take a shot of the underside of your truck, let's take a look at the condition of what we are dealing with. Wish I was closer, I would help you out. Alot of good suggestions posted but like said before, hard to diagnose over the internet. I can't count the times I have helped people diagnose a problem with their car/truck over the phone.

(edit) I just googled it, lots of videos about differential noise. You can check these you tube videos

https://www.google.com/search?q=200...nCZIBAzIuOZgBAKABAcABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-video

 

[Cody]

Yes, I realize it's difficult to diagnose the problem over the internet. But everyone has given me some good points to look at. I'm hoping it's a KISS problem. These are the original shocks and I have 135k miles (mostly highway) on it. So hopefully it's just the shocks.

I had a mechanic fairly well, and he would just laugh at poeple come in and say "just fix it" after he tried to explain to them it was probably nothing. So he'd change everything. Real nice guy. He'd inspect the problem and tell you what was wrong. Then he'd suggest ways on how I could fix it myself. I never took him up on that; I wouldn't do that to anyone. Free advice. I'd always pay him to fix it. His prices were fair and I could truss him. I miss him as he retired.

To those that think a mechanic is just a "grease monkey", you're wrong.

Good mechanics are hard to find now days. I worked for one but he didn't know how to keep a clean shop and that was why I left. There have been good suggestions here, if equipped with a sway bar I would definitely take a look at the end links, they're usually inexpensive to replace as well. Shock bushings for sure if they're worn, split, sometimes just flat out gone. Hopefully not a leaf spring issue but it could be, I'm not too familiar with those year dodge trucks.

 

[djg james]

Thanks everyone for your replies. We're having a warm 55 deg. day and I just got done inspecting every thing.
There is no sway bar, the gas tank is tight against the frame as is the spare tire. The leaf springs look good; all the clamps are in place. It still could be the eyes as someone suggested.

About a year or so ago, I had a loud clunking sound as I drove and I finally got around to looking at it. My drivers side top shock mount had rusted off the cross-over member holding the spare tire. The top of the shock was hitting the underside of the bed. So I took it to a machine shop where they beefed up the cross-member and welded the shock mount back on. The welds are holding and all shock mounts are in tack.

I rocked the truck from side to side for about 3-4 times and it took a couple of rocks to settle down. So I still suspect the shocks need replacing. I'll replace them in the Spring when the weather is better.

Now I'll tell you what I found. I'm quite embarrassed but since everyone responded with true concern, I should give you the opportunity to laugh at me.
It's hard to tell exactly where noises come from when you're driving. I knew the noise was way in the back. The noise always occurs when I drive out of the driveway and make the turn into the road. As I was sliding myself under the bed of the truck to do the inspection, I grabbed onto the trailer hitch and a noted a clunking sound. It's a class III hitch which I leave in the receiver 365 days/yr. and it's usually rusted in place. Last Summer or later, I broke it free, cleaned it up and shot a lot of grease into the receiver. After I got done today looking, I yanked the hitch out and drove in and out of my drive without any noise. What an idiot. Something that simple. So have your laugh; you've earned it.

I appreciate everyone's replies and your advice on shocks will not go un-noticed.
Thanks

 

[ericm979]

It can be tough to track down noises like that. Good that you found it before spending anything.

 

[user 172763]

No laughs here. That's the last thing anyone needs. Glad you found it. But I still recommend looking at a few of those videos, the rear differential seems to be a problem with those vehicles. That's one thing most people never pay attention to and have never changed the fluid. I have pulled the covers off some and gray gunk flowed (for lack of a better word) out of it full of metal.
Just like the old joke, I had a (blonde) girlfriend and asked when was the last time you changed the oil, she said, it came with oil in it.

 

[djg james]

No laughs here. That's the last thing anyone needs. Glad you found it. But I still recommend looking at a few of those videos, the rear differential seems to be a problem with those vehicles. That's one thing most people never pay attention to and have never changed the fluid. I have pulled the covers off some and gray gunk flowed (for lack of a better word) out of it full of metal.
Just like the old joke, I had a (blonde) girlfriend and asked when was the last time you changed the oil, she said, it came with oil in it.

Thanks for the recommendation about the differential. The noise only occurred when the truck was bouncing. And I forgot to mention, someone mentioned U-joints. I know what they sound like when they go bad and it wasn't that. And again, the differential, I may be pro-active and check it out when it gets warmer. That'll give me time to figure out how to do it and what fluid to put back in. I had a S-10 that the rear locked up on me. I never looked at the fluid or the rear end. It had other problems and would not had passed the emissions inspection so I scrapped it.

And I'll ask one last stupid question. Does the differential fluid lubricate the wheel bearing or is there a seal in between and the wheel bearings are separate? Just trying to see what really went bad on the S-10. Bearing or differential.

 

[sb47]

I put some adjustable spring helpers on my truck and it made a world of difference in keeping it from sagging to much and it increased my payload capacity by another 1000lbs. I suspect the clunking noise is a loose bolt or broken shock or worn shock bushings. Springs will sag with time and heavy use. There use to be a place that rebuilt and re tempered leaf springs but I don't know if they still do that these days.
Add a leaf springs work great but are a bit stiff when empty. If the shocks are working your truck should only bounce once or twice when hitting bumps. Springs control the compression and shocks control the rebound.

 

[user 172763]

There are seals on the diff. the wheel bearings are greased and ride inside a race on each side. I mentioned the U-joints just as a guess of things I would look for if you pulled in my garage

 

[North by Northwest]

Cheap fix , a little grease goes a long ways lol. Point of info regular greasing every 3,000 miles of ball joints tie rods & universals & slip yokes , will protect your investment for mucho extra miles ! Grease & oil are cheap insurance !

 

[GeeVee]

Yes, I realize it's difficult to diagnose the problem over the internet. But everyone has given me some good points to look at. I'm hoping it's a KISS problem. These are the original shocks and I have 135k miles (mostly highway) on it. So hopefully it's just the shocks.

I had a mechanic fairly well, and he would just laugh at poeple come in and say "just fix it" after he tried to explain to them it was probably nothing. So he'd change everything. Real nice guy. He'd inspect the problem and tell you what was wrong. Then he'd suggest ways on how I could fix it myself. I never took him up on that; I wouldn't do that to anyone. Free advice. I'd always pay him to fix it. His prices were fair and I could truss him. I miss him as he retired.

To those that think a mechanic is just a "grease monkey", you're wrong.

I have a great mechanic i would miss if he retired. I can do lots, but often these days I just don't have time or want to do something on my back in the driveway. Perhaps if I had a lift I would do more, but he is fair and honest. By appt only, and he turns away people coming in with older trashed neglected vehicles. He's got an immacualte shop with four lifts, an alignment rack. If its a repair, he investigates and phones with an estimate. If the book rate says three hours, thats what he quotes, if he gets it done in two, when you pick it up, your bill is for two hours and parts. (DIL's Jeep Patriot AC made him take the entire front clip off to change out the compressor because the refrigerant oil basicall drowns the comp after a few years, common issue) He doesn't make you fix something thats not broken. Integrity.

I have never hesitated to pay him what he asks and try to drop off a GC for a nice restaurant in town when I pick things up.

 

[GeeVee]

Cheap fix , a little grease goes a long ways lol. Point of info regular greasing every 3,000 miles of ball joints tie rods & universals & slip yokes , will protect your investment for mucho extra miles ! Grease & oil are cheap insurance !

Sadly, i usually have to wait till the OEM fails, and then its gets replaced with a greaseable part. Too many parts being manufactured that don't have ZERKS. Rant over.

 

[djg james]

That's the kind of mechanic he was. Never felt the need to question him. Man I miss him (lol).

 

[djg james]

Sadly, i usually have to wait till the OEM fails, and then its gets replaced with a greaseable part. Too many parts being manufactured that don't have ZERKS. Rant over.

That's the way it was on my S-10. No zerks on the U-joints and no clips either. He had to take a torch and melt the plastic that was poured in to retain the bearings. Something I certainly not do.

 

[user 172763]

Cheap fix , a little grease goes a long ways lol. Point of info regular greasing every 3,000 miles of ball joints tie rods & universals & slip yokes , will protect your investment for mucho extra miles ! Grease & oil are cheap insurance !

I have an 89 Ford Van sitting in my driveway that would thoroughly agree with you.

 

[GeeVee]

I have an 89 Ford Van sitting in my driveway that would thoroughly agree with you.

Yeah, My Dad told me just once. Your truck BURNS gas, and USES oil, neglect your stuff and it will be the other way around.

 

[Cody]

Thanks for the recommendation about the differential. The noise only occurred when the truck was bouncing. And I forgot to mention, someone mentioned U-joints. I know what they sound like when they go bad and it wasn't that. And again, the differential, I may be pro-active and check it out when it gets warmer. That'll give me time to figure out how to do it and what fluid to put back in. I had a S-10 that the rear locked up on me. I never looked at the fluid or the rear end. It had other problems and would not had passed the emissions inspection so I scrapped it.

And I'll ask one last stupid question. Does the differential fluid lubricate the wheel bearing or is there a seal in between and the wheel bearings are separate? Just trying to see what really went bad on the S-10. Bearing or differential.

As far as I know, all rear axles the outer bearings ride in the same oil that's in your rear diff. It gets sloshed around in there as long as it doesn't have a leak. A lot of GM guys with 14 bolts will drive the passenger side up on a 2x4 to over fill them just a little. Just make sure the breather is working or it will blow out axle seals. Solid front axles generally need the outer bearings greased.

Now I'll tell you what I found. I'm quite embarrassed but since everyone responded with true concern, I should give you the opportunity to laugh at me.
It's hard to tell exactly where noises come from when you're driving. I knew the noise was way in the back. The noise always occurs when I drive out of the driveway and make the turn into the road. As I was sliding myself under the bed of the truck to do the inspection, I grabbed onto the trailer hitch and a noted a clunking sound. It's a class III hitch which I leave in the receiver 365 days/yr. and it's usually rusted in place. Last Summer or later, I broke it free, cleaned it up and shot a lot of grease into the receiver. After I got done today looking, I yanked the hitch out and drove in and out of my drive without any noise. What an idiot. Something that simple. So have your laugh; you've earned it.

I appreciate everyone's replies and your advice on shocks will not go un-noticed.
Thanks

Don't feel bad, I got a driveway drag to pull behind my four wheeler and the first time using it I kept hearing a clunking noise. Though oh great the rear diff or something is going bad. Took awhile to figure it out, of course after getting rather frustrated at it. It was the same as your truck, just the receiver hit rattling around.

That's the way it was on my S-10. No zerks on the U-joints and no clips either. He had to take a torch and melt the plastic that was poured in to retain the bearings. Something I certainly not do.

That's how pretty much all GM ujoints were at one time. Replacements should have clips, and if you buy one with grease zerks make sure to grease them, or they'll fail quickly. We stopped putting in greasable ones because often guys wouldn't bring them in often enough and then blame us for them failing. Grease every 10k miles isn't often enough so sealed units went in. Generally the factory ones held up pretty good anyways.

 

[PasoRoblesJimmy]

Probably not the best spot to post this, but I do use this truck to scrounge for firewood. If anyone wants to move it feel free.

I've got a 2008 Dodge 2WD 1500 truck that I think needs rear shocks. There's a clunking noise in back when I go over bumps. I inspected the weld repair to my frame once and they are holding. I'll inspect everything again, but I believe it may be the rear shocks. This truck is usual used on paved roads and never any off roading other than occasionally driving over a field. I've been looking for shocks that's at least equivalent to the factory ones, but maybe a little beefier because I do load it up with firewood and pull a full 5x8 trailer full of wood at the same time.

The prices are all over the place; from $20 to well above $150 each. I've had coil shocks before on an older F150 and they seemed to work well. I'm currently looking at these, but am not limited to them: MONROE 58640.

Any ideas and any way to make sure my shocks are bad?

Monroe shocks and struts have a reputation for leaking. Most good mechanics recommend Bilstein or KYB.