I second the matched pair.
Rear Shocks
- Thread starter djg james
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
When I was shopping for the correct front shock, I found a site that sold a set of front/rear shocks. The rears were the same ones I had installed, so I went ahead and ordered that particular front shock matched with it.
Noticed my serpentine belt is full of those tiny cracks. That'll be next (lol).
Noticed my serpentine belt is full of those tiny cracks. That'll be next (lol).
Consider replacing the belt tensioner too. If it goes out it can ruin the belt.
I saw that in one site's ad, recommending it be changed also. Thought it was just a marketing ad. Are you talking about just the pulley because of worn bearings, or the whole spring arm and pulley?
Often these days it's easier to get, or to replace, the arm with the pulley attached. And sometimes the arm is the part that fails, like in Corvettes with hydraulic dampers in the tensioner. There might be more than one roller. It depends on the engine and I don't know specifics for yours.
The last one I did, on a VW VR6 engine, it was a tensioner with roller, and an additional idler roller, and a couple replacement single use bolts. Came as a kit.
The last one I did, on a VW VR6 engine, it was a tensioner with roller, and an additional idler roller, and a couple replacement single use bolts. Came as a kit.
Get the arm tensioner & pulley as a set . I just did mine on my Ram 2500 . Easy job , 30 minutes and your good for another 100,000 miles !
I agree, with my VW Diesel, (interference engine) it is recommended that when the belt is replaced, you replace the tensioner (arm/pully) with it. At 200K when I did the TB and tensioner on it I also replaced the alternator. They tend to go out at 250-275K miles, and the belt/tensioner has to come off to replace it so that was a no brainer.
I'd much rather work on the car on my time than have the car tell me when something had to be replaced 2 minutes ago. MUCH easier to work that way and schedule it when I have time to do it.
I'd much rather work on the car on my time than have the car tell me when something had to be replaced 2 minutes ago. MUCH easier to work that way and schedule it when I have time to do it.
Well, the front shocks are proving to be more difficult than the rear. I shot the nut/bolts with PB Blaster a couple of days ago. Coincidentally all the squeaking went away went i sprayed all the rubber bushings. Still attempting to change the fronts, though. Heated the top nut 3-4 times and the sprayed the lubricant to get it to wick into the threads. Didn't budge. Even bought an offset box end wrench set to get a better grip. I heated/sprayed the top nuts one last time and will let soak overnight. Then I'll try the offset wrench with a pair of vise grips on the 'flat' one last time. There's really no flat. It's either rusted so bad or buggered up from someone messy with it. I had both side wheel bearings replaced before. There wouldn't be a need to remove the shocks, would there?
Any way, if I cant break the nuts loose in the morning, I was wondering if I could grind one side of the nut off with a 4-1/2" angle grinder and a cut off wheel? Then I could use a cold chisel and pop the nut open? Any thoughts?
Any way, if I cant break the nuts loose in the morning, I was wondering if I could grind one side of the nut off with a 4-1/2" angle grinder and a cut off wheel? Then I could use a cold chisel and pop the nut open? Any thoughts?
You can use one of these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Automotive-Nut-Cracker/1000595029
It's less likely to damage the threads. If you can get the cutting wheel in there without damaging anything else you can cut a start with it and finish with the cracker. I have also used small cutting wheels on dremel tools for that.
It's less likely to damage the threads. If you can get the cutting wheel in there without damaging anything else you can cut a start with it and finish with the cracker. I have also used small cutting wheels on dremel tools for that.
Thanks, I don't care about damaging the threads. They're part of the old shock.
Just use a disc cut off wheel to cut the nut off & then a centre punch to drive out the remaining bolt . Better to use new bolts & nut .Ensure to use some anti size or moly grease on the threads of the new bolts !
Also in the future get a pipe wrench on the buggered or rounded off nuts , quite often a cheater bar helps , since without a proper acetylene torch you only get one chance lol. All the best brother !
Cody
ArboristSite Guru
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2013
- Messages
- 847
- Reaction score
- 1,790
Quite often, it's easier to sheer off those bolts than to try and back them off exposed threads. Yes, quite a bit of leverage may be required but it's simple and fast. Use a six point impact socket. I grabbed a 3/4" drive breaker bar, I think 40" in length along with a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter just for those instances. I don't like impact drivers for that scenario, but they work as well.
If you haven't already, RockAuto sells a serpentine belt component kit that will include the tensioner and any idler pulleys needed.
Actually , a little penetrating oil & compiliary action will remove most frozen fasteners .I was previously referring to where the nuts or bolt heads are so buggered that a proper six point cannot be utilized effectively . If the exposed threads are corroded severely , I often use a 48 " breaker bar to shear off the bolts , if larger than 3/4" a torch or zip disc makes short work or even the most stubborn fasteners !
The top nut on the front shocks were the ones I was having trouble with. Nuts weren't rounded off and I did use both heat and penetrating oil multiple times but they wouldn't budge. Limited area to use a long bar. I ended up grinding off one side of the top nut and then hitting it with a cold chisel. The shock dropped right down.
I bought a Gates belt and tensioner from Amazon already. But thanks.
The top nut on the front shocks were the ones I was having trouble with. Nuts weren't rounded off and I did use both heat and penetrating oil multiple times but they wouldn't budge. Limited area to use a long bar. I ended up grinding off one side of the top nut and then hitting it with a cold chisel. The shock dropped right down.
Cody
ArboristSite Guru
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2013
- Messages
- 847
- Reaction score
- 1,790
If the fastener is in that poor of shape I'd rather not reuse it, hence not even messing around with penetrating lube or the time required after that. Shearing it off is the fastest method, not always the easiest but I've learned to just not **** around. Sometimes though, the satisfaction of winning the battle with those fasteners can be fun. Cut off wheels are obviously amazing given the space too, rusted u bolts holding that axle in place? Cut em, they're not supposed to be reused anyways. Same with leaf spring or shackle bolts. Why waste the time in trying to salvage them? Order new, the time saved is worth the cost.
Similar threads
