Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[67L36Driver]

The last 'O' rings and seals I found at an industrial supply house here in River City. Sometimes get bearings and seals at O'Releys auto parts.

 

[cbfarmall]

I forgot you wanted these seal numbers but I see you already jumped on it. I'll post up my info anyway for anyone else who needs it. Can't comment on the later Remys, just the Bantam style that I've repaired a few of.

Chris B.

 

[happysaws]

Thanks for the PN's, I reassembled the PL-6, after letting the JB-WELD cure for about 36hrs. I started it and let it idle for about 10 minutes and shut it off to let it cool before cutting with it. After picking it up off of the workbench, I noticed a large puddle of fuel mix on the workbench. With a flashlight, I looked at the crankcase and noticed that the crack was back! Seeing I was so upset I went out to the log, and in anger began to make cookies; about 20 cuts later, it still runs strong. Does anybody know how the saw can run/cut so strong with a 2 1/2" crack in the crankcase? And will I ruin the engine if I continue to use the saw? It has visible exhaust smoke, so it can't be running lean...?
Thanks for any advice!

 

[happysaws]

UPDATE: After farting around w/ the PL-6 some more, and putting a tachometer on it, I discovered that it's sucking air again (but it still runs strong ). So, I can tear it all apart again and try to fix it again. The only reason that I am so persistent w/ this saw is because it has 165PSI compression (that's a lot for a Remy from what I've seen), and runs stronger that my other three 95cc Remingtons. When I applied the JB-WELD, I lightly clamped the crack shut figuring that the crack shouldn't be there and that the bolt hole spacing became incorrect; now I'm thinking that maybe the casting was bad and the bolt hole spacing was wrong from the factory. I drilled a small hole in the crankcase to prevent the crack from going any further, so maybe I'll just fill the crack w/ JB-WELD without clamping the crack shut so the crankcase seals again. UGHH!

 

[67L36Driver]

You need to find someone in your area who can tig weld magnesium.

 

[cbfarmall]

Concur with Carl. Stop right there with the JBweld, dismantle it (sorry, no way around that), clean it, and send it off to Sean. If it can be done, he'll do it.

BTW, a picture of the crack would be nice. Never really been in one of these, short of replacing the cylinder.

Chris B.

 

[happysaws]

Thanks for the advise; I've been told by many people that it's a bad spot to try to weld... not sure, but I learned why it re-cracked. I was in a hurry and failed to notice the huge gob of putty on the crankcase where the crankcase cover seals, and I never removed it. When I reassembled it, the cover pressed on the gob so hard that it forced the crack open again. Lesson learned. I already "fixed" the crack again w/ more JB-Weld by the time I saw your post, but it'll work this time....

 

[briantutt]

I'll try to dig that up then.[emoji106]

super modern anti-vibe installed! Thanks Carl!

Brian

 

[happysaws]

Got the PL-6 happy, runs like a tank.

 

[briantutt]

Darn it! I put the new friction washers in but the prawls still don't grab, although now they at least fly out.

Brian

 

[67L36Driver]

I can dig you out a cup. But first. Prick punch the inside of it every 1/6"-3/32" around the inside circumference where it is supposed to grab.

And, sharpen the ends at 45 deg. Do not make them shorter. Narrow up the grab fingers.

 

[briantutt]

so use an automatic center punch?

Brian

 

[67L36Driver]

Should work[emoji106]

The fingers should extend fully with a half turn of the pulley.

 

[briantutt]

I can dig you out a cup. But first. Prick punch the inside of it every 1/6"-3/32" around the inside circumference where it is supposed to grab.

And, sharpen the ends at 45 deg. Do not make them shorter. Narrow up the grab fingers.

+1, that will be next on my saw to do plan. Thanks!

Brian

 

[briantutt]

I can dig you out a cup. But first. Prick punch the inside of it every 1/6"-3/32" around the inside circumference where it is supposed to grab.

And, sharpen the ends at 45 deg. Do not make them shorter. Narrow up the grab fingers.

is this what you mean by prick punch?

Brian

 

[ML12]

I've got a Remington bantam with a Carter carb on it. The carb got cleaned and the old diaphragms put back in because they looked really good, what are the initial settings (hi/low) for the carb?

 

[67L36Driver]

is this what you mean by prick punch?

Brian

No. Those are transfer punches. For transferring a hole pattern on part to another.

Center or prick punch.

 

[67L36Driver]

1 1/2 turns on most any carb will get them to run. Prolly rich but works.

 

[briantutt]

No. Those are transfer punches. For transferring a hole pattern on part to another.

Center or prick punch.

got it

Brian

 

[happysaws]

What did I buy?

It has a Tilly carb and 7/16" chain. Does anybody know what model this is?