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Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
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MatthewD
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi all, new member here from the UK.
I picked up a non running Remington Super 770 at a vintage show last summer. I sell a bit of firewood on the side and I was on the lookout for a big-ish saw for bigger trees that my Husky 141 couldn't handle. I hadn't heard of Remington saws before buying this one, they mustn't have been very popular over here. It was older and heavier than what I originally wanted but it was complete and wasn't stuck (the recoil was seized though) and I do have a soft spot for vintage equipment of any kind. It also has a Remington roller nosed bar, I'm not sure on the exact size of the bar, it is around 24" but I'm not sure whether to measure the entire length of the bar or the length of bar sticking out past the saw.
Anyway, I started to work on it, it had clearly sat a long time, the chain was completely rusted to the nose of the bar. It had no spark, but after cleaning and setting the points and cleaning the carb she ran pretty well. It has the carter carb and it's very hard to get adjusted right, especially to get it to idle consistently.
I got the chain freed up and sharpened and I've probably got 5-10 hours runtime on it, I've never used a vintage saw before and I was very impressed at the low end torque it has. It's much more fun to use than a modern saw. It's also very loud which I gather is normal for these, this one maybe more so because the baffle inside the exhaust had broken off and someone had welded a deflector plate on the end of the exhaust to act as a baffle. I do have the baffle so I might get it welded back in to quieten it a bit.
So, after using it for a while, it has started to develop a few issues, which is the reason for posting on this thread, hopefully I can get some advice.
The first issue is the rod bearing on the crankshaft has a bit of play in it, and I would like to fix that before it gets any worse. I didn't want to take the rod cap off before I posted on here because I suspect the bearing rollers are not retained by a cage and would just fall out once I took the cap off. Would I be able to replace just the rollers and hope that reduces/eliminates the play?
The second issue is the starter cup has broken at the base, I think this was my fault because the starter wasn't engaging very well, so I bored the id of the cup out and pressed in an aluminium ring to bring the cup down to the right size. This worked for a while but then the cup broke. From inspection of the inside of the cup I can see that the pawls on the starter were engaging the cup at an angle which would put an unbalanced force on the cup causing it to break. I think this happened because I clamped the outer diameter of the cup in the lathe to machine the inner diameter, but I didn't check whether the hole in the centre where the crankshaft goes through was concentric to the od. That's what I think happened anyway. So I'm on the lookout for a new cup or if I cant get one I'll have a go at machining one from aluminium.
Also is the blue paint more uncommon than red? Most of the pictures I've seen only are red or yellow. And is there a way of dating the saw from the serial number? I would like to know roughly what year it was made
The two pictures of the saw are when I got it. Hopefully the pictures work, and sorry the post is so long. Looking forward to reading your replies.
I picked up a non running Remington Super 770 at a vintage show last summer. I sell a bit of firewood on the side and I was on the lookout for a big-ish saw for bigger trees that my Husky 141 couldn't handle. I hadn't heard of Remington saws before buying this one, they mustn't have been very popular over here. It was older and heavier than what I originally wanted but it was complete and wasn't stuck (the recoil was seized though) and I do have a soft spot for vintage equipment of any kind. It also has a Remington roller nosed bar, I'm not sure on the exact size of the bar, it is around 24" but I'm not sure whether to measure the entire length of the bar or the length of bar sticking out past the saw.
Anyway, I started to work on it, it had clearly sat a long time, the chain was completely rusted to the nose of the bar. It had no spark, but after cleaning and setting the points and cleaning the carb she ran pretty well. It has the carter carb and it's very hard to get adjusted right, especially to get it to idle consistently.
I got the chain freed up and sharpened and I've probably got 5-10 hours runtime on it, I've never used a vintage saw before and I was very impressed at the low end torque it has. It's much more fun to use than a modern saw. It's also very loud which I gather is normal for these, this one maybe more so because the baffle inside the exhaust had broken off and someone had welded a deflector plate on the end of the exhaust to act as a baffle. I do have the baffle so I might get it welded back in to quieten it a bit.
So, after using it for a while, it has started to develop a few issues, which is the reason for posting on this thread, hopefully I can get some advice.
The first issue is the rod bearing on the crankshaft has a bit of play in it, and I would like to fix that before it gets any worse. I didn't want to take the rod cap off before I posted on here because I suspect the bearing rollers are not retained by a cage and would just fall out once I took the cap off. Would I be able to replace just the rollers and hope that reduces/eliminates the play?
The second issue is the starter cup has broken at the base, I think this was my fault because the starter wasn't engaging very well, so I bored the id of the cup out and pressed in an aluminium ring to bring the cup down to the right size. This worked for a while but then the cup broke. From inspection of the inside of the cup I can see that the pawls on the starter were engaging the cup at an angle which would put an unbalanced force on the cup causing it to break. I think this happened because I clamped the outer diameter of the cup in the lathe to machine the inner diameter, but I didn't check whether the hole in the centre where the crankshaft goes through was concentric to the od. That's what I think happened anyway. So I'm on the lookout for a new cup or if I cant get one I'll have a go at machining one from aluminium.
Also is the blue paint more uncommon than red? Most of the pictures I've seen only are red or yellow. And is there a way of dating the saw from the serial number? I would like to know roughly what year it was made
The two pictures of the saw are when I got it. Hopefully the pictures work, and sorry the post is so long. Looking forward to reading your replies.
I don’t know about the recoil, but when you say that the crank has “play” do you mean side to side play or up and down play? The conn rods are meant to “float” from side to side on the crank but there is not supposed to be slop in the bearings. Regardless, you are correct that they are just floating in there, those saws didn’t come with caged crank bearings. A trick I learned when re-assembling those is to use tacky grease to hold the needles in place. I think dielectric grease worked the best, but plain white grease works decent as well.
Might have to buy a parts saw just for the recoil. Looks like alot of older remingtons used that recoil I seen bantam and super 75a super 65 have the same looking
recoil.
recoil.
MatthewD
ArboristSite Lurker
I mean that there is rotational play in the crank, and it's coming from the connecting rod bearing. I think the crank bearings themselves are fine, it's the rod bearing where the slop is. Should I try replacing the needles and see if that reduces the play or would the crank/rod need replacing? I imagine that the needles are no longer available but hopefully some off the shelf ones might fit
The recoil itself works fine, it's just the starter cup that I need. If I cant find a new cup I'll try machining a new one. I'm currently watching a super 773 on eBay. It looks complete and the paint is in good condition but it has some bad corrosion on the bottom of the case and the handle looks like it's been broken and then patched up. It has the correct recoil, but the seller says it slips so the cup is probably worn. Probably would be a good parts saw the price was right.
Not sure how the cup works but if it's like a super 660, 754, or a pl or sl series I have ground new grooves into the cup with a dremel to get the pawls to catch on worn starter cups. I'm jealous you have a super 773 on your ebay in Europe. Nothing that cool over here lately
MatthewD
ArboristSite Lurker
Yeah I tried filing grooves on the cup on mine but it was too worn. I think I read on here somewhere above putting rivets in the side of the cup for the pawls to catch on which seems like a good idea. Here's a link to the 773 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165430512638?hash=item26846d4bfe:g:5eEAAOSwjcZiVdQs
I'm not really looking for another Remington, even for a parts saw. Although it has a 26" Remington bar on it. The paint on it is surprisingly good for a Remington. It's currently not getting many bids but we'll see what happens as the auction gets close to ending in about 6 hrs time. I think though if I went for this one I would want to get it running as it's slightly bigger than my 770 and looks like it has less hours on it but it's still been abused, hence the broken handle and clutch/bar cover. The corrosion on the bottom of the case and handle bar mount scares me a bit. What would be a reasonable price to pay for something like this?
Here's a pic of one of the many worn cups I reworked. All were super smooth and recoil was not catching at all.
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...176a52b56b390e0488256b02005a415d?OpenDocumentThis link has the info on the saw. The starter cup looks real deep compared to all the ones I have found for sale.
MatthewD
ArboristSite Lurker
I tried doing something similar to that on my starter cup, although not as many grooves or not as deep. I wish I had done more research into fixes for worn starter cups before machining it. There seems to be so many variations of that starter cup. I think the best thing to do is to buy a bit of 3" aluminium round bar and try to machine one. Yeah the 773 seems to be very similar to the 770 but 6 more cc's. The seller says it has compression but doesn't say how much. It's tempting, especially if it goes cheap. But I don't need another project saw, and I wouldn't really want to harvest parts off it even if it is pretty rough.
So has anyone fixed the play in the con rod bearing by replacing the needles? I'm going to take the cap off and inspect the surfaces on the rod and crank to see if they are damaged. I'm hoping that the needles were made from a softer material than the crank or rod.
So has anyone fixed the play in the con rod bearing by replacing the needles? I'm going to take the cap off and inspect the surfaces on the rod and crank to see if they are damaged. I'm hoping that the needles were made from a softer material than the crank or rod.
Yea the bar alone to me is worth 100$ if shipping wouldn't be so much I would entertain it. And yes I agree so many starter cups. The recoil looks exactly like my super 660.
super 660 very similar recoil but the cup isnt that long/deep if I remember correctly 
MatthewD
ArboristSite Lurker
Well it's gone up to £97 which with shipping is a bit more than I would want to spend. That 660 is nice, I prefer the red paint over the blue. The flywheel on the 660 must be closer to the recoil if the starter cup is less deep. Do you know if there is a way of telling when the saw was made, by the serial number or something?
Not sure. Maybe 67L36Driver could help you. He is a remington specialist. I just started collecting remingtons in the last 6 months I have 9 now + 1 locked up super 754. 3 super 754, 2 super 660, 1 pl5, 2 pl4, 1 sl4a/jd18.
I noticed there was no paint on the cooling fins. I usually think that when there is no paint then it was probly was ran pretty hard. All of my saws have good paint on the fins.
Could you weld the cup?
MatthewD
ArboristSite Lurker
That's a pretty good rule of thumb. It went for £133 in the end and I didn't think it was worth that just for parts.
I have tried to weld it with the aluminium welding rods you use with a blow torch but it didn't get any penetration and just broke. I don't have a tig welder to weld it properly, but if I did get it welded I'm not sure it would hold. I think it would be better to get a new cup.
That's fairly similar to it, but it's not the same. I got some better pictures of the cup and some dimensions. There's no part number on the cup, there was the remnants of a number that I couldn't make out which I accidentally ground off when I was preparing it for welding. From looking at pictures of different Fairbanks Morse starter cups online I'm fairly the cup I need is a Fairbanks Morse 14-112, Remington part no. 60796A. Leon's chainsaw parts and repair has 2 NOS ones for sale. https://www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/store/p6987/NOS_Fairbanks_Morse_Starter_Cup_14-112.html
I have had good luck with leons. I just bought the nos oregon sprocket system from him for my big saws. And it was alot cheaper than ebay. Keep us posted on your saw, i would like to see a video of it running.
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