Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[MatthewD]

I have had good luck with leons. I just bought the nos oregon sprocket system from him for my big saws. And it was alot cheaper than ebay. Keep us posted on your saw, i would like to see a video of it running.

With shipping it comes out to be £25 which is about $33, so I don't know if it's worth it or not. There is one on ebay for $40 not including shipping so if I end up buying one Leon's would be the best bet. I have access to a lathe and limited machining skills so I was thinking on machining a new cup from aluminium but making a plastic insert from nylon or similar that presses into the cup and is replaceable, plastic would probably wear out quicker than aluminium but you just put a new insert ring in and you're good to go again. Obviously it would have to be a pretty tight press fit or it would turn in the cup. Some older stihls with the fairbanks morse style starter were like that, but they had notches in the cup which locked the ring in place.

Before I run the saw anymore I want to inspect the bottom end properly, seals bearings etc and try to eliminate or at least reduce the play in the crankshaft rod bearing because I don't want it causing any damage to anything. You can hear slight rod knock when it's idling, and it's 90% in the rod bearing on the crank side, the other rod bearing seems tight.

I came across an IPL for a super 770 on this thread, and found the needle rollers I need are part number 60582A but cant seem to find any for sale. There's various sized loose roller needles for sale on ebay, so when I take the bearing cap off I'll measure the diameter and length of the rollers and see if I can find some that are the right size.

 

[Brufab]

With shipping it comes out to be £25 which is about $33, so I don't know if it's worth it or not. There is one on ebay for $40 not including shipping so if I end up buying one Leon's would be the best bet. I have access to a lathe and limited machining skills so I was thinking on machining a new cup from aluminium but making a plastic insert from nylon or similar that presses into the cup and is replaceable, plastic would probably wear out quicker than aluminium but you just put a new insert ring in and you're good to go again. Obviously it would have to be a pretty tight press fit or it would turn in the cup. Some older stihls with the fairbanks morse style starter were like that, but they had notches in the cup which locked the ring in place.

Before I run the saw anymore I want to inspect the bottom end properly, seals bearings etc and try to eliminate or at least reduce the play in the crankshaft rod bearing because I don't want it causing any damage to anything. You can hear slight rod knock when it's idling, and it's 90% in the rod bearing on the crank side, the other rod bearing seems tight.

I came across an IPL for a super 770 on this thread, and found the needle rollers I need are part number 60582A but cant seem to find any for sale. There's various sized loose roller needles for sale on ebay, so when I take the bearing cap off I'll measure the diameter and length of the rollers and see if I can find some that are the right size.

I think once you find the size tracking down the needle rollers will be easy. You can post a want to buy or looking for thread. Some manufacturers seem to use same bearings, seals, piston rings, etc.. from all the stuff I have read on the forums. I thought I read that a certain poulan saws rings were the same as the 82/88cc remington saws and are easier to obtain.

 

[edju1958]

Hi guys,it's been a while since I've been on this sticky.Lots of other brand saws to work on.
A big hello to our newest member Matthew D.from across the pond! I've read about your dilemma with the broken cup on the FM starter.Homelite used those starters as well & I belong to a Homelite forum.Leon of Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair is the administrator of that forum.There was a member there who made his own starter cup from parts he bought at a hardware store for around $10.That was a few yrs.ago & I'd have to hunt up that thread later in the week & hopefully post a link.

I bought a real nice Monkey Wards 4.0 yesterday for $85 on Feebay.The saw is in really good shape & is supposed to have great compression.Only time will tell.Here's a pic from the seller.

 

[Brufab]

Hi guys,it's been a while since I've been on this sticky.Lots of other brand saws to work on.
A big hello to our newest member Matthew D.from across the pond! I've read about your dilemma with the broken cup on the FM starter.Homelite used those starters as well & I belong to a Homelite forum.Leon of Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair is the administrator of that forum.There was a member there who made his own starter cup from parts he bought at a hardware store for around $10.That was a few yrs.ago & I'd have to hunt up that thread later in the week & hopefully post a link.

I bought a real nice Monkey Wards 4.0 yesterday for $85 on Feebay.The saw is in really good shape & is supposed to have great compression.Only time will tell.Here's a pic from the seller.

Dang it lol I knew I should of bought it now for 100$ I offered 75$ good score, I was going to buy it now this evening if my offer wasn't accepted, that saw was as clean as a whistle. Keep us posted on it

 

[Brufab]

I bought a nice pl5 from that seller, just needed a carb kit. If you ever decide to sell that Wards saw let me know. I think it's a pl5A from what I could tell. To early of a model to be a sl11A.

 

[edju1958]

I bought a nice pl5 from that seller, just needed a carb kit. If you ever decide to sell that Wards saw let me know. I think it's a pl5A from what I could tell. To early of a model to be a sl11A.

Yeah,the PL5,SL11,& MW 4.0 were all the same at 65cc.I have a SL11A that was running kinda funky.I ended up replacing the reed,got it all together & it needs seals.Go figure.
I saw someone post how difficult it is to find crank seals for these saws.My answer to that is not really.If you've got your old seal that's not torn to pieces,you can take it to your local bearing house & they can match it up.Even if you only have the original part #s they can cross reference them.

 

[Brufab]

Great advice!

 

[SawBawss]

I have a monty ward bluish green and white - 85 cc, I think. It does run I know that, but don't really know much about these saws. It has been sitting under my work bench growing roots. Are these saws worth restoring?

 

[Brufab]

I have a monty ward bluish green and white - 85 cc, I think. It does run I know that, but don't really know much about these saws. It has been sitting under my work bench growing roots. Are these saws worth restoring?

Maybe it's a pl55. 82cc I believe.

 

[Brufab]

I have a monty ward bluish green and white - 85 cc, I think. It does run I know that, but don't really know much about these saws. It has been sitting under my work bench growing roots. Are these saws worth restoring?

You will have to send us a couple pics. There's a blue pl55a for sale on a remington fb page I'm on. I think he is asking north of 200$ for it in running condition

 

[Brufab]

Hey fellas! I just acquired a automatic oiler remington and for the life of me I can't pinpoint exactly where the duckbill check valve is. I am leaning towards part #37 as to where it's located. I enclosed the ipl. Thanks and appreciation in advance.

 

[67L36Driver]

Main bearings for PL/SL 4 and SL11 are Koyo BH-108; L125. Longer or shorter will work but measure carefully.

Crank seal try National 253747, 0.625 x 0.875 x 0.125.

McGill was the original supplier to Remington from what I’ve observed.

Crankshaft endplay can be reduced by using longer bearings or the washer/shims sold to reduce endplay in the old Delco Remy points distributor. They’re hardened, not like washers from the hardware store.

Measure! Get you a dial calipers!

 

[Brufab]

Thanks for that information, definitely will save me a ton of time if I ever need to replace them.

 

[Brufab]

Hey fellas! I just acquired a automatic oiler remington and for the life of me I can't pinpoint exactly where the duckbill check valve is. I am leaning towards part #37 as to where it's located. I enclosed the ipl. Thanks and appreciation in advance.

Thread 'Remington & Lombard auto-oiler check valve fix.' https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/remington-lombard-auto-oiler-check-valve-fix.200023/
Think I'm heading in the right direction

 

[SawBawss]

You will have to send us a couple pics. There's a blue pl55a for sale on a remington fb page I'm on. I think he is asking north of 200$ for it in running condition

I will take a few pics as soon as I get a chance. I mostly work on huskys and stihls, so havent had much interest in the heavy old beast!

 

[Brufab]

My smaller remingtons are a blast to run but once you start running those magnesium monsters like the super 754 or super 660 you start to rethink why am I collecting these things

 

[67L36Driver]

My smaller remingtons are a blast to run but once you start running those magnesium monsters like the super 754 or super 660 you start to rethink why am I collecting these things

Because they’re cheap for the most part.

 

[Brufab]

Is that why they only came with a 24 in.bar as the longest?
Ed

I have a 36" hardnose bar on one of my 754 saws. It pulled it ok, it was full comp chain, maintenance supervisor recommended skip tooth chain so it's easier on the saw in big wood.

 

[Brufab]

Because they’re cheap for the most part.

Yea I agree only way I can get into the 80cc+ class. Those mac saws are alot of $$$.

 

[edju1958]

I got the Monkey Wards 4.0 yesterday & went through it briefly.It has good compression,but no spark.It could be dirty points,or a bad switch,but I'm leaning towards a bad condenser.When I get a littlle time on my hands next week I'll go through it more.