Im not sure what interchanges with that starter cup ,but Shaun Carr could weld it.
Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
- Thread starter wampum
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No doubt but the cup looks alot like one of my other cups for a pl4 or pl5. I'm going to work on it alil bit tomarrow hopefully
I'm going to check it against my other saws.
There are a gazillion F/M starters out there on all kinds of old saws. Should be able to find a donor fairly easy.
Look for a part number on that cup. FM used digits separated by a dash.
Matthew,I looked for the thread on the Homelite forum about the guy making a starter cup for less than $10 & found it,but the guy just said he went to the hardware store & bought a hole saw cup & used that.He also said he was going to make a video on YouTube too,but didn't see a link for that.The member hasn't been on the Homelite forum in over 2 yrs.Sorry for the bad news.I have several cups that are all worn smooth.I've seen posts where guys have said they used a Dremel tool to score new grooves in the cup.I'd like to know how that's possible?I had an old timer tell me to use a hack saw blade to cut new grooves in the cup too.I'd seem to think that'd take a month of Sundays to do though.And yet another member here used a material that's used in the trucking industry & glued strips of that inside the cup & he said it works great.
I have done that about 8 times. I will look for pics.
I uses some diamond bit i think that came with the dremel (6-8$) I done starter cups on pl/sl and super series saws. Just try to space then out evenly and the pawls catch every time.
Thanks cb I have some pl4 and pl5 saws, I will look at those cups for fitment and update the thread. Hopefully its one of those since that's about the most common saws to be had for a remy
MatthewD
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for looking that up. I wonder how well the pawls would grip the sides of the hole saw? My starter cup was worn, it would only grab if you pulled the recoil very hard. I tried to cut grooves in it with a hacksaw but I don't think I got them deep enough because it didn't work. I then machined out the cup and pressed in an aluminium ring to bring the id of the cup back to original. That worked for a while but then the cup broke. I thought it was because the ring I machined was off center, but it could have had a defect in it like the one Brufab has. Cutting the grooves with a dremel seems like a good idea, I wish I'd tried that on my starter cup.
Matthew,if you're up to trying the Dremel tool thing,I have several cups that are worn out.I have no idea how much it'd cost to mail one to Ireland,but I'm here to help.Look on your old cup & take measurements to see if the cups I have will work & see if there are any numbers imprinted.Also,what was the model of your saw again?
MatthewD
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks, I appreciate the help. I would be glad to pay postage price if you have one suitable. The saw is a Super 770. Theres no numbers left on the cup but from research I am 99% sure it is Remington part # 60796A and Fairbanks Morse number 14-112. Here are some pics of the cup. If you need more dimensions I can get them for you.
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I went to my shop and got the pl7a running after installing a new recoil spring. Saw seemed under powered. But the carb diaphragm was a bit stiff. The clutch was slipping in popple while doing a test cut. Saw didn't seem to rev all the way out like my other saws do. I used a 19" hard nose bar for the test. Good thing is that it runs and manual oiler works. Put alil bar oil in it and none came out the muffler during a test cut....
Looks like there was a million grooves/ridges originally and looks like I added about half of them back
MatthewD
ArboristSite Lurker
That pl7a sounds nice. Maybe it's not revving out because it's too rich. The cup on mine doesn't have any grooves in it from new, all the NOS ones I've seen are completely smooth, so it's hard to see how they engage even when they're not worn.
Yea not sure how the pawls engage to something smooth. Every starter cup I have has some sort of grooves/ridges, I didn't have much time to try any tuning, but it was a good trial run, atleast I can focus on tuning as opposed to trying to get it to run.
Points could be way out also.
So the part# for starter cup is the same for super 754 and pl6 does that mean it will work for pl7 even though the part # isn't isn't same.
It was running good and idling good just felt and sounded like it was plugged up. Guessing the low rpms may have been why the clutch was slipping?
Could be the low rpms but might need cleaned/degreaser too. Just make sure that decomp isn't hanging open.
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