Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[crane]

I've found some info on this with a search, but not my answer. I need a clutch drum/sprocket and bearing for my saw. The clutch itself looks good. At some point someone has replaced the old drum with an ill fitting one, wrong diameter for the journal. The bar and chain are 3/8", which appears appropriate for this saw (I think the PL-4 was .404). My journal measures about .353. Thanks for any input.

Sam,

Sorry I missed your post here. I replied to your PM, and left some links for you. Any more questions, fire away. There are a ton of good people in this thread with good info.
BTW the PL-4 will pull 3/8 full comp chain fine up to 18-20", but I've never known one that was supplied with .404. I think that would be too much for that saw. I've run 3/8 on a 20" bar, but only in soft woods. Can't say for sure how it would pull buried in red oak.

 

[crane]

I recently got 3 old Remington chainsaws

Remington Powerlite PL-4

Remington Mighty Mite Featherweight 2.1 CI

Remington Super 990

I'm looking for some service manuals, Parts breakdowns, and some tips on how to properly restore these saws.

Thanks in advance for all of your help.

I first made a new thread about this, then was instructed to ask questions here. I have posted pics on the other thread.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/184845.htm#post3257539

Glad you posted here and welcome to the Remington/Mall thread. In the banner at the top of the page is a sponser here: chainsawr.com. Scott usually has a selection of remington PL/SL-4 parts and he also has illustrated parts lists(IPL), that you can view. That should take care of the PL-4. The 990, is only a saw I have seen in pics. I've never had the chance to see or hold or RUN one in person Please post away as you clean it up and get it buried in some wood.

 

[Eccentric]

Some Remington SL and PL saws took the same clutch drums and clutch bearings as Homelte XL-12/SXL saws. May want to look into that route....

 

[crane]

Older model John Deere saws also have the same sprockets(as they were made by Remington).
JD-12,14 = SL-9
JD-15 = SL-10
JD-17,18 = PL-4
JD-23 = PL-55

 

[MnSam]

Sam,

Sorry I missed your post here. I replied to your PM, and left some links for you. Any more questions, fire away. There are a ton of good people in this thread with good info.
BTW the PL-4 will pull 3/8 full comp chain fine up to 18-20", but I've never known one that was supplied with .404. I think that would be too much for that saw. I've run 3/8 on a 20" bar, but only in soft woods. Can't say for sure how it would pull buried in red oak.

Thanks much, I sure appreciate the input. Acres site lists the PL4 as being supplied with .404, that was confusing to me. My SL4 sure has great comp and spark, I'm interested to see how it will pull trough some hardwood when I can get it to actually turn a chain (it will need a carb kit also). I know these are vibe monsters, so I don't plan on cutting all my firewood with it. It does strike me though as being a fun saw to mod a bit and see how it does. Well built, intake set-up is conducive to a high flow aircleaner, side exhaust would put a tuned pipe nicely out of the way, and of course some mild porting. I think I picked it up a year ago for $10, so I don't have a big investment into it. Is this crazy talk, or sound thinking?

 

[crane]

opcorn:opcorn: some may think it's a little crazy, but I'd like to see where this goes.


I love to run my PL-4. Mine is not that bad to hold on to, and that is with steel handle, no rubber grips.

 

[MnSam]

All hypothetical of course, I would except constructive feedback. I looked tonight and it seems a husqvarna HD air filter set up from my 372 (I happen to have an extra one laying around) would be literally a bolt-on upgrade with a minor adjustment/cutout to the existing Remington filter cover. And for a long time I've wanted to attempt a tuned pipe fabrication. The winter gets long here in Minnnesota, and with a wife and two teenage daughters in the house I enjoy spending time in the garage by the heater. Anybody ever done some cylinder mods to an SL4 or similar?

 

[67L36Driver]

The M. Wards/Rem. SL-11 showed up today. Like the seller stated, has plenty of compression. The sprocket/drum bearing needed some lube so we removed it and now we are looking for one.

The sprocket is junk. Rem. #A23-387 or Oregon 30681X.
It will be OK for a few test runs. Mr. Roper is going to loose a bar/chain again.

Will this work? http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=remington drum&catID=10693
Only one listed by Bailey's in a rim drive.

Found the 30681X. http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+30681X&catID= Fits the same batch of Homies as the above

The crank has a lot of endplay but It only shows roller bearings in the IPL from Chainsawr.

I may use wifey's hot glue gun or duct tape (Yikes!) to make a temporary seal around the air filter.

 

[67L36Driver]

Odd tidbit of information.

The spare clutch for my 75A fits on my Wards Powr Kraft. 9/16" L.H. threads.

 

[leeha]

I opened them up for you.[/QUOTE

Thanks! Try as I might I just can't seem to get them posted live. I believe it's my os. I appreciate the assistance. guess I'm just too old to learn this new trick.:frown:

That saw is gorgeous. Very nice job.
Color looks spot on.



Lee

 

[crane]

That saw is gorgeous. Very nice job.
Color looks spot on.



Lee

He does do excellent work. I've seen a few of his other projects.........WOW!

 

[crane]

The M. Wards/Rem. SL-11 showed up today. Like the seller stated, has plenty of compression. The sprocket/drum bearing needed some lube so we removed it and now we are looking for one.

The sprocket is junk. Rem. #A23-387 or Oregon 30681X.
It will be OK for a few test runs. Mr. Roper is going to loose a bar/chain again.

Will this work? Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's drum&catID=10693
Only one listed by Bailey's in a rim drive.

Found the 30681X. Bailey's - Oregon Pro Spur Sprocket for Homelite and Remington Chainsaws Fits the same batch of Homies as the above

The crank has a lot of endplay but It only shows roller bearings in the IPL from Chainsawr.

I may use wifey's hot glue gun or duct tape (Yikes!) to make a temporary seal around the air filter.

I went thru some of my old sprockets, 30681 should work. The X just means no bearing supplied. Pm me and I can send you some links for sprockets for sale.

 

[67L36Driver]

I went thru some of my old sprockets, 30681 should work. The X just means no bearing supplied. Pm me and I can send you some links for sprockets for sale.

Baileys has the 30681X on hand and it is listed as fitting the SL-11 and some large Homies. The 30666X is a rim drive/drum and fits the same batch of large Homies.

I ordered the 30666X.

Will the SL-11 pull a 24" hardnose? I have one on hand in the right mount pattern (off my XL-800 project). Going to be aukward heavy.

 

[Eccentric]

Baileys has the 30681X on hand and it is listed as fitting the SL-11 and some large Homies. The 30666X is a rim drive/drum and fits the same batch of large Homies.

I ordered the 30666X.

Will the SL-11 pull a 24" hardnose? I have one on hand in the right mount pattern (off my XL-800 project). Going to be awkward heavy.

It'll run that bar just fine. You're not going to be burrying it anyways. I may have a spare 20" hardnose from an XL-series Homelite that you can have if you want it Carl. Takes 70DL of 3/8"-.050G. Let me know if you want it so I can go searching for it this weekend.

 

[67L36Driver]

It'll run that bar just fine. You're not going to be burrying it anyways. I may have a spare 20" hardnose from an XL-series Homelite that you can have if you want it Carl. Takes 70DL of 3/8"-.050G. Let me know if you want it so I can go searching for it this weekend.

Thanks Aaron.

No rush on the 20" bar for now. The 24" will serve to test run the SL-11.

Small place south of town has Forester b/c combos on hand. 20" for the Skilsaw was $28.

 

[crane]

I've never run a 24" on a SL-11, but my PL-55, handles it just fine. I think the SL-11 will too. It will be real nose heavy, and a touch akward, with that heavy hardnose, but you won't mind it when it hits the wood.
I loved to hear what you think. My 11, has hardly any time on it with new rings. Was wondering what bar I was going to throw on it........hardnose 18", or roller nose 20".

 

[67L36Driver]

The rim drive drum for the SL-11 showed up yesterday (Oregon 30666) and needed a larger needle bearing than the spur drum. After stopping at an OPE dealer and an industrial supply house with no luck I went to Ace hardware and got a sintered bronze bushing 3/4 x 1/2 x 1 1/8. Pressed it in flush on inside and cut off the excess with a hack saw. Works fine.

Cranked him up and winged him in the driveway for about 20 minutes. Got a loop made for the 24" bar off the XL-800. We have a 20" b/c on order.

With some duct tape on the perimeter of the air filter we are ready to test cut.

Anyone have directions on adjusting the auto-oiler? Not sure if it works or not. The manual oiller is hard to push.

 

[67L36Driver]

This should work for a short run.

View attachment 207872

 

[crane]

The auto oiler works on a needle system, kind of like the needles on a carb. If you turn it in(clockwise), it will choke the oil flow off. Turning it out will increase the flow. If the manual oiler is hard to push, it could be that the auto oiler screw is tuned in too much, or it is just dirty.

 

[67L36Driver]

SL series scanned from Clymer book.

View attachment 207922

View attachment 207923

View attachment 207924

Well, full size scan was too big to upload. This is hard to see.

I read it as being no pump, just crankcase pressure feeding the line. Also it calls for 30 weight oil thinned 50/50 with kerosene.

Now I have to dump out the thick stuff and try again with something much thinner.