Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

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Anything you can get for it. There are plenty around, and not much interest from a collector point of view(IMHO). Check e-bay, that will give you an idea of what they sell for.

ok will do thanks for getting back

where lomond in Alberta we love to visit the candian rockies ?


MIke
 
2 hours south east of calgary.

oh ok we like driving down thru the kannasaks trail rt 40 from calgary to crowsnest pass at franks slide

my pic is a griz we saw a few miles before the gravel road it was about 40 ft from rd !

Lovely country !
 
Well, full size scan was too big to upload. This is hard to see.

I read it as being no pump, just crankcase pressure feeding the line. Also it calls for 30 weight oil thinned 50/50 with kerosene.

Now I have to dump out the thick stuff and try again with something much thinner.

There will be a line coming off the cylinder. It uses cylinder pressure, fed to the oil tank to pressure up the system. The oiler adjuster adjusts the amount that is fed out on to the bar. The manual override is just there to add a little extra if the user deems it needed. The 50/50 mix with kerosene, is just a stop gap if you get caught in the dead of winter with summer weight oil. 30w oil was used in the past, but it does not have the added tackiness that modern bar oils have, thus you have to use more oil to get the same results. Stihl offers light, medium, and heavy bar oils. Heavy for the summer and light for the winter. I just use medium weight year round and have had no issues.
 
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oh ok we like driving down thru the kannasaks trail rt 40 from calgary to crowsnest pass at franks slide

my pic is a griz we saw a few miles before the gravel road it was about 40 ft from rd !

Lovely country !

Yeah, that drive down 22 is great. Lot of mountain rubble laid out in the Frank slide! Glad you enjoyed your trip up thru here. I'm further east, out in the high prairie.
 
Drew: Thanks, I spied some 30 weight bar oil at Wally World the other day. I think I'll try it.

When I push on the manual plunger it won't hardly move with the thick stuff. 50 deg. in the garage.

I'd pull the manual oiler out and give it a clean. At 50 degrees, any oil should flow easily. That winter weight is really only for -10 weather. 30W will not stick to the drivers all that well when they make it around the bar nose. That is where it is needed the most, and on the bottom of the bar. Try it out, but you will find a tremendous amount will sling itself off the end.
 
Drew: Service manual made the trip!

Made five cuts in some 14" semi dry walnut. It was easy to stall out with a little pressure. Very slow return to an idle. Also, the crank has a good 1/16" endplay using twist drill bits as feeler guages. Spark plug (CJ6) cleaned up and colored up good. All the old oil in the muffler burned off. Choke, gasp..

I think we will need new crank seals and shim the endplay down to 10-15 thou..

This thing will be a hoot to run with a 20 after we seal up the bottom end.

I'm never happy untill I've taken something completely apart anyway.
 
SL-11 chain oiling.

I think I found out why I can't pump oil to the bar with the saw sitting on the bench.

From page 9 of the service manual.

"6. On all automatic oiling models a wire link connects the throttle trigger to an oil shutoff valve located directly below the manual oil pump. This valve prevents the flow of oil at idle speed or after the engine has been shut down.

Under certain conditions, the wire link for the chain oil shutoff valve could slip forward from under the throttle and render both the automatic and manual oiling inoperative. Reposition wire and re-bend, if necessary to retain in position."

A Craftsman/Roper 3.7" has a very simular setup.

I do note that I can get a very small dribble if I pull the throttle trigger and pump the manual oiler plunger.

Now to get the handle apart. That rubber grip just slip off?
 
SL-11 chain oiling.

No wire link on this one. The end of the throttle trigger pushs down on a plunger. It's somewhat dogeared but serviceable.

So to get oil to the bar you have to push the manual plunger and pull the throttle trigger.
 
Not sure what to say. My SL-11 is manual oiler only. I have a SL-4 auto oiler, but that saw has never been apart, heck I've not had time to look at it since I got it sometime back. I'm at work now, but I'll check a few parts saws when I get home. I was always under the impression that you did not need to push the oiler button on the automatic models to get oil. The button was just an override, in cases where a little extra oil was needed.
 
SL-11 chain oiling.

Going to fill it with the 30w bar oil, soak the chain and give him a run tomorrow with the auto feed adjusment screw open two turns.

I'm used to just blipping the throttle and pumping the manual oiler to pre-oil the chain before a long cut.
 
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SL-11 recoil starter.

Darn F-M recoil starter is missing one of the fiber washers making it a hit or miss (mostly miss) if it will catch. P.I.T.A. to get it cranked up.

Anyone have an extra Remington #64078 in the SL-11 IPL?

Many, many other saws use them including my Homie C-5 and Skilsaw 1645/P.M. 340.

Ran him a bit this morning but no sign of auto-oiling yet. Will open the needle valve some more.

The 30w bar oil pumps (manually) much better.
 
In keeping with the bar pics theme, what size sprocket should I use with my new sheep shears?


2011-11-02_13-09-52_432.jpg


Any idea on the saw ID or, do I need better pics?

I saw these for sale,if some one is interested in getting one.

New Granberg G114A 14" Clip-N-Trim Chain Saw Attachment | eBay
 

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