Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

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While we are on Bantam types; can someone confirm if my Wards is original paint?

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Never seen a baby blue saw before. No decals or stickers on it.

My Wards/SL-11 is orange and white.
 
While we are on Bantam types; can someone confirm if my Wards is original paint?

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Never seen a baby blue saw before. No decals or stickers on it.

My Wards/SL-11 is orange and white.

Seems like I've seen that color on another MW. If it's original it should have over spray in the starter, carb, fasteners. If no over spray, could be it was selectively cleaned really well or it's not the original paint.
 
I just got this sign. :msp_smile:
Up until now I never collected any signs but liked this one and one other.
A Mono chainsaw sign. I might get a few more.;)

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SL-4A carcass off evilbay.

Won an SL-4A off evilbay that has a broken handle and the bottom brace missing. It showed up today so first thing is check compression. Not very good at 120 psi. Had to borrow the recoil off my other SL-4A to crank it as the recoil spring was AWOL.

Since the fuel tank was empty and looked clean I rinsed it and filled him with fresh mix. Commenced priming and pulling and eventually got him going. Ran him twenty minutes or more tweeking the carb.

Checked compression after shutdown and now it is only 110 psi. W.T.H.

I havn't got the jug off yet but the cylinder and piston look near MINT. No carbon on top the piston or in the muffler. There was no 'saw cake' inside anywhere. Looks like it was broken when the saw was nearly new and just set aside for the next forty years.

Maybe the rings or a ring is broken.

I have a PL-4 parts saw that will contribute a carb box/handle.
 
Plans gone awry.

I had planned to use the carb. box/handle from my "PL-4" parts saw to replace the broken handle on the SL-4. Parts saw has a different reed setup.

Parts saw handle and reed on the left in the pictures

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I may have to use the parts saw crankcase so the reed/handle/crankcase are compatable.

Finish tare down of the parts saw so we can figure out W.T.H. it is.

The piston, cylinder and rings in the SL-4 looked like new. Left out the base gasket (.035" thick) to increase the compression ratio.
 
That's EXTREMELY interesting Carl (at least to a geek like me). It appears that Remington had both 'flat reed' and 'pyramid reed' versions of that saw. Same as the XL-12/SXL Homelites. On the Homelites, the reed block/spacer and rear handle/carb box casting are different (between 'flat' and 'pyramid' styles). I can't remember if the crankcase casting is different too. You'll gain some top end if you run the pyramid reed setup. I see a noticible difference between my 'flat' and 'pyramid' reed Homelites of like displacement. I have 3.55ci Homelites with both reed types (Super XL-12 and SXL-AO). The 'pyramid' saws have much more snap on the top end.

Edit:

I just checked the IPL's. The crankcase is the same # for both reed types on the XL-12/SXL saws. The carb box casting, reed block/spacer, and crankcase gasket is different between the two types. Carl are you certain the crankcases are different between the two saws? From the pics, it looks to me like the bolt pattern on the front of the carb box is the same for both, even though the faces look different due to the different reed setups. Maybe it's like the Homelites, and just needs a different gasket....
 
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carl,

You sure you have a SL-4(a)??? All the IPL's I`ve looked at show the pyramid reed set up starting on the PL-5 series and up, including the SL-11. Could it be that the seller got the model wrong and sold a SL-11 as a SL-4? That would be a bonus:D Do the pistons measure the same on both tear downs?
 
That's EXTREMELY interesting Carl (at least to a geek like me). It appears that Remington had both 'flat reed' and 'pyramid reed' versions of that saw. Same as the XL-12/SXL Homelites. On the Homelites, the reed block/spacer and rear handle/carb box casting are different (between 'flat' and 'pyramid' styles). I can't remember if the crankcase casting is different too. You'll gain some top end if you run the pyramid reed setup. I see a noticible difference between my 'flat' and 'pyramid' reed Homelites of like displacement. I have 3.55ci Homelites with both reed types (Super XL-12 and SXL-AO). The 'pyramid' saws have much more snap on the top end.

Edit:

I just checked the IPL's. The crankcase is the same # for both reed types on the XL-12/SXL saws. The carb box casting, reed block/spacer, and crankcase gasket is different between the two types. Carl are you certain the crankcases are different between the two saws? From the pics, it looks to me like the bolt pattern on the front of the carb box is the same for both, even though the faces look different due to the different reed setups. Maybe it's like the Homelites, and just needs a different gasket....

The pyramid reed of the parts saw will not fit down the 'throat' part of the crankcase of the SL-4A. Hence, the handle/box swap is a no go.

carl,

You sure you have a SL-4(a)??? All the IPL's I`ve looked at show the pyramid reed set up starting on the PL-5 series and up, including the SL-11. Could it be that the seller got the model wrong and sold a SL-11 as a SL-4? That would be a bonus:D Do the pistons measure the same on both tear downs?

The ebay SL-4A has the recoil stickered 59cc and the clutch cover is stickered SL4 automatic oiler.

On tare down, I felt like I was the first inside the saw since it was built. I bet it ran less than an hour before it got the handle broke. Just shelf dirt from a long storage.

The parts PL-4 only has the DESA builder tag with a serial number. No model number.

The cylinders on both measure 1.812" bore.

The parts saw has an excellent cylinder and very good piston. He will get new rings.

Carl.
 
Mighty Mite problems starting.

I have totally torn down, cleaned, and rebuild my grandfather's old Remington Mighty mite. I also rebuild the carb. I tried starting it today for the first time, and have run into some problems. On the first attempt, with full choke, and trigger locked in, after a few pulls it popped, I opened the choke, and could not get it running. The air filter was off, and I could see fuel splashing up out of the ait intake on the carb. I looked back through the manual and adjusted the low idle, and idle screws as suggested.

After a few hours I tried again. full choke, letting the trigger go, it popped on the first pull. opened choke and it tried to start a few times, but flooded, and the same thing was happening. I pulled the spark plug out, that was went with fuel. It seems to be getting to much gas, and I'm not sure why.

Any help would be greatly appreciaed.

DFF
 
hi there guys im fairly new to the site but i recently bought a bunch of saws and in the collection was remington super 75 with the original roller tip bar.I was shocked that it still turns over..but anyways if someone needs it's for parts or wants to restore it i'd let it go..i'd rather see someone use it than it waste away
 
hi there guys im fairly new to the site but i recently bought a bunch of saws and in the collection was remington super 75 with the original roller tip bar.I was shocked that it still turns over..but anyways if someone needs it's for parts or wants to restore it i'd let it go..i'd rather see someone use it than it waste away

Drew, help this man out!!
 
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