AND your answer to post #70 is?????
AND you can replace WOT with, wide open "governed" MAX rpm...
This post??
Then we are talking about the thousands and thousands of 4 cycle "inverter" gen set motors, mine is splash lubed and I can't remember the last time it revved to WOT!
Mostly it just sits there running for hours on end just above an idle to half throttle...
Hasn't hurt it one bit and it uses a lot less gas with lighter loads on it.
First of all... no... you cannot replace WOT with wide open "governed" MAX rpm.
WOT means "wide open throttle"... maximum governed RPM (full throttle) can be just slightly off idle position if there's no load on the engine, or something more than that if the engine is on-load. The truth is... the
throttle position is continuously being
varied by the governor slightly... small 4-cycle engines are controlled by
variable throttle position.
Now... about those inverter gen sets... and I didn't address it before because it gets highly technical, but I'll keep it basic.
First question for ya'... have you put a tachometer on your generator engine when you believe it's running at ½ throttle or less??
Inverter gen sets use a high efficiency alternator (rather than a generator) to produce a high frequency alternating current (much higher than 60HZ), which is then run through a diode bridge to convert it into D/C, which is then run through the inverter to convert it back into low frequency A/C (normally, very clean, 60HZ A/C). Those high efficiency alternators use magnets, rather than brushes... meaning very little resistance (very little load on the engine). The "load" (what you're powering) is placed on the inverter... only if the inverter needs more input to keep up with demand is load placed on the alternator. For all practical purpose, the engine is running
off-load unless you place a very high demand on the inverter. The difference is
off-load or
on-load... there ain't a problem running less than full throttle when
off-load... as I've said.
Not all inverter gen sets adjust the engine RPMs down during low load... many run at a steady RPM (whatever the specs call for, it ain't necessary for it to be 3600 RPMs because the alternator is high frequency, it ain't a 60HZ generator). However, those that use electronic modules (i.e. small computers) to control current and conversions will often also adjust the engine RPMs for low/no load conditions. Typically these RPM adjusting will be more expensive and often also use "special purpose" commercial engines designed to run in an operating range of 2000-3600 RPMs... or 2500-3600 RPMs... or even 2800-3060 RPMs (3060 is not a typo... 2800-3060 is a common "special purpose"). This is why you normally cannot go get parts for small engines using just the model number... you also need the spec number, or serial number, or whatever depending on manufacturer. The model number basically is the block/frame... it's the other numbers that determine what the engine is, and what its specs are.
As I posted earlier...
Dad's old pressure washer has a "special purpose" 3.5 HP Briggs on it... designed to run and produce peak power at 3000 RPMs per specifications.
The reason is the water pump bolted to it is rated for a maximum RPM of 3000.
*