Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

[8433jeff]

2 more questions.

What would you suggest I use to replace the missing windows in the air filter cover? I am thinking I don't want to do anything permanent in case I should someday find some. I was thinking some type of a screen but not sure what I should use to "attach" it. Would a silicone caulk work, JB Weld or some other type of epoxy?

Also, there are two cracks through the frame around the front window. They both match up perfectly so whatever I use can't take up much if any space.

Thanks!

Caulk may work for a while, be the least permanent measure. Not having the privilege (yet, hopefully) of seeing it, is the top cover metal or plastic?

I assume you have hit the crank/clutch situation with some penetrating oil. And are using a rope in the cylinder. It may just take more force, but thats easy for me to say from here. PM leeha, hes sure to have done it before.

 

[Warped5]

I assume you have hit the crank/clutch situation with some penetrating oil. And are using a rope in the cylinder. It may just take more force, but thats easy for me to say from here. PM leeha, hes sure to have done it before.

Hey Wendell - Tap Sachsmo on the shoulder as well as CM76 ... they may be of help .... On my 111i I just use an impact gun with my homemade clutch tool ... just 1 or 2 burps and I've never needed to use a rope or hose or anything ... be on your toes, there may be a goofy washer in between the clutch and drum. Good luck!

 

[wendell]

Both covers are metal.

I'm sure he will be here soon. He was in the 6+ cube thread a little while ago.

I am using rope in the cylinder and did put a little penetrating oil on but ran out so will put some more on tomorrow.

 

[wendell]

Thanks, Lee, for all your help today!

I did get the clutch off today and was really hoping to get it all back together and get some pictures posted but the saw is actually more apart now than when the day started. Found out that the manual line had completely disintegrated so I will have to find out if I can find something that will work tomorrow.

Also, the bar that I bought from Bailey's that they said will work with a new oil hole will not,

Bailey's - 36" Carlton Premium Sprocket Tip Bar

unless it will work to not only drill a new oil hole but then also drill a hole through the groove to meet the oil hole in the side of the bar. Will that work?

The tail of the bar is too wide so where the oil(s) would need to go is at least 1/8' below the groove.

Thoughts?

 

[J.W Younger]

Thanks, Lee, for all your help today!

I did get the clutch off today and was really hoping to get it all back together and get some pictures posted but the saw is actually more apart now than when the day started. Found out that the manual line had completely disintegrated so I will have to find out if I can find something that will work tomorrow.

Also, the bar that I bought from Bailey's that they said will work with a new oil hole will not,

Bailey's - 36" Carlton Premium Sprocket Tip Bar

unless it will work to not only drill a new oil hole but then also drill a hole through the groove to meet the oil hole in the side of the bar. Will that work?

The tail of the bar is too wide so where the oil(s) would need to go is at least 1/8' below the groove.

Thoughts?

Can you use a dremel with a small rotary file to slot the hole? The clutch cover will need to cover the entire length of the slot. I have drilled between the rails before but if the slot will work it'll be eaiser. Its easy to break a bit thats small enuff to fit between the rails. Sometimes if the cover wont seal the oil hole/slot you can use a bar shim (from a parts saw) between the cover and the outside of the bar. Without seein it I may be talkin out my ass here,
and stuff.

 

[J.W Younger]

Can you use a dremel with a small rotary file to slot the hole? The clutch cover will need to cover the entire length of the slot. I have drilled between the rails before but if the slot will work it'll be eaiser. Its easy to break a bit thats small enuff to fit between the rails. Sometimes if the cover wont seal the oil hole/slot you can use a bar shim (from a parts saw) between the cover and the outside of the bar. Without seein it I may be talkin out my ass here,
and stuff.

If it looks like it will work just do the one side , see if it oils before doin the othe side.

 

[wendell]

So what you're saying is drill the oiler oil where it needs to be and then grind a channel for the oil to flow up into the groove?

 

[pioneerguy600]

So what you're saying is drill the oiler oil where it needs to be and then grind a channel for the oil to flow up into the groove?

That will work very well, I have modified dozens of bars to fit older makes of saws and the method you mention has worked very well for me. A cutoff disc in a dremmel will cut the groove down to the drilled oiler hole.

 

[J.W Younger]

So what you're saying is drill the oiler oil where it needs to be and then grind a channel for the oil to flow up into the groove?

I was thinkin more off a channel from where the actuall hole needs to be to the existing one. or a hole where it needs to be channeled to the existing one.If you drill tru the bar tho the cover will have to block the out board side, so its best to drill 1/2 way tru on each side. If you can't do that you'll have to drill a connecting hole in the rail. I seem to remember breakin a couple of bits doing just that.

 

[wendell]

Great, thanks!

 

[wendell]

I was thinkin more off a channel from where the actuall hole needs to be to the existing one. or a hole where it needs to be channeled to the existing one.If you drill tru the bar tho the cover will have to block the out board side, so its best to drill 1/2 way tru on each side. If you can't do that you'll have to drill a connecting hole in the rail. I seem to remember breakin a couple of bits doing just that.

I wouldn't drill through the bar, just to the depth of the rail. I'm about an 1/8th to 3/16th below the groove so can just grind the channel so the oil can make it there. Makes sense. Definitely sounds easier than trying to drill down through the groove and trying to get the 2 holes to match up.

 

[J.W Younger]

I wouldn't drill through the bar, just to the depth of the rail. I'm about an 1/8th to 3/16th below the groove so can just grind the channel so the oil can make it there. Makes sense. Definitely sounds easier than trying to drill down through the groove and trying to get the 2 holes to match up.

Now thats a plan!
Make sure the hole is high enough the drive tangs will keep it cleaned out 1/8 should be good.

 

[leeha]

So what you're saying is drill the oiler oil where it needs to be and then grind a channel for the oil to flow up into the groove?

That will work just fine,
I have seen many modified bars like this.
I use a pointed die grinder to make the channel.



Lee

 

[wendell]

Thanks again for the help yesterday, Lee.

How's the storm? Looks like you at least have power.

 

[leeha]

Thanks again for the help yesterday, Lee.

How's the storm? Looks like you at least have power.

Your very welcome wendell.

The storm is here but not as bad as expected.
Unless we haven't seen the worst yet. But according
to NOAA we should be seeing 80 mph winds now.
I think we are only getting 50 to 60 gusts. No heavy
rain yet.



Lee

 

[54stude]

Signing on to this thread to learn about my new S-D 123

Hi Guys,
Got a S-D 123 this week, and I am signing on to this thread to learn more about S-D saws.

I like the feel of this saw a lot, and it has a really nice sound to it.

I have not taken it apart at all yet, but has anyone seen a "soft" chainbrake action on one of these saws? The brake will stop the chain, but it is not "crisp", and takes a half second or so. Might just be grease or chips, I have not looked yet.
Thanks,
Brian

 

[Nickyei9jf]

S d 153

Hi Guys,I posted this on the general chainsaw thread but it was reccommended that i put it here,so here goes..Hi,I recently got a Dolmar 153 (80s Vintage) with a chain break a 24 inch hard nose bar and 404 chain to add to my collection.It is in good condition for its age.My first question is: .1. It was advertised as a runner but it was stated that after abt 23/30 mins of operation it stops and if its left for a few mins it starts again,so is this an ignition problem? (I have not run it for that length of time yet) .2. It has 150 psi on a compression test and wonder if this is close to factory specs? .3. Has anyone any info on where i can get a 36" sprocket nose bar for this saw and is there any other makers out there with the same pattern or is there any bar type that could be modified to fit .4. Are there any spare parts still around for this model? .5. And whats the general oponion about this model? Thanks Nicky.

 

[leeha]

Welcome to the thread nicky, As far as your 153,
It's a very nice 100cc saw. The Sachs Dolmar saws
of that era are well built and solid. Built to last.
As for the running condition, It could be ignition.
Best way to tell is when it die's pull the spark plug
and see if you have spark. If you do then it could be
a fuel problem like a tank vent being pluged. Parts
are very hard to find for these saws as they have
been discontinued for quite sometime now.




Lee

 

[sawfun9]

I just bought a Sachs Dolmar 166, now the work begins. I need a couple of dogs for it, would anybody have a pair or do I need to make them?

 

[CM76]

I just bought a Sachs Dolmar 166, now the work begins. I need a couple of dogs for it, would anybody have a pair or do I need to make them?

Congrats on the 166 Don - they are a nice saw. If noone can help you out with the dogs, I can make a stencil of mine and email it through if you so desire. I just have to wait til I return home from my current project in a couple of days time.

Regards,

Chris.