Saw techniques and cutting/felling safety

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If you have a chance to look at a newer stihl its a raised line about half way back on the starter housing goes across the top of cylinder down onto the clutch cover. When new its painted black. :chainsaw:


cheers, i'm going to take a gander at a new saw int he shop. The sight lines are new to me.

Clearance, thanks for that link.
 
someone want to show me these gunsights on the saw? cuz i have never seen one yet....then and again i do fall with a 28 year old Husky 61, or a double bit axe, or a misery whip..........:biggrinbounce2:

Black lines on Stihl pro saws... Can't tell ya about other makes.

On older saws and non-pro saws without the lines, you can use your top handlebar as a gunning sight.

I do the same as Tim... I always make my gunning cut first. Then make my bottom cut. About 95% of my face cuts are Humboldt's... so this is a lot easier.

Gary
 
husqvarnas also have the black line I do the gunning cuts first also its just the way I was taught

also, the front of saw and bar form straight angle, thats what i use for making cuts in straight angle...
 
For every discussion/arguement we have about techniques or equipment such as open face/Humboldt/conventional or corks and walking the log/ walking the ground. Long bar/ short bar...full wrap/half wrap. Plunge and release/standard backcut. Wedges/ropes.
Whatever your flavor is, its a sure thing that there is somewhere and some situation where you will be handicapped if you do not change and adapt or combine.:givebeer:
But the arguements are whats fun.

I make the gunning cut first too, but I guess if its all the same in the end it dont matter.
 
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For every discussion/arguement we have about techniques or equipment such as open face/Humboldt/conventional or corks and walking the log/ walking the ground. Long bar/ short bar...full wrap/half wrap. Plunge and release/standard backcut. Wedges/ropes.
Whatever your flavor is, its a sure thing that there is somewhere and some situation where you will be handicapped if you do not change and adapt or combine.:givebeer:

Yup. Every tree is different, and it is good to have a lot of tools in your toolbox. That's why I have completely read through the text for GOL, never know when something might come in handy.
 
I hope you fellas don't mind if I post the pictures here. They are pics from a logging job I am "trying" to do. These are what I am hoping to get my stumps/logs to look like. Please critique.

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Post away. Excellent for a non pro. Looked at them all, here goes my opinions. picture #31=perfect, #71=backcut is below undercut, only fault, #81=pretty good, could have a bigger undercut, #91=great, #10=great. Basically speaking, as long as the holding wood is maintained without the corners being cut off, the backcut is a little higher than the undercut and the undercut is 1/4 to 1/3 the tree without a dutchman, its ok. Take your time, check and check again.
 
Thanks for the input. Of course, I picked the very best looking stumps I could find. There are a lot that look pretty rough! The hardest thing for me now, is getting my saw level to start the backcut. I often end up even with, or just a tad under the notch.
 
Seam aa little shallow in the under cuts. But they are fallowing the hinges. How big are these trees seems like thin hinges like smaller or shorter trees. You are a brave sole to post em. Maybe thell be gental.
 
Seam aa little shallow in the under cuts. But they are fallowing the hinges. How big are these trees seems like thin hinges like smaller or shorter trees. You are a brave sole to post em. Maybe thell be gental.

I am so green, I don't have anywhere to go but up, and I need the criticism. I have had a couple of guys give me a couple of pointers and I have been on me own ever since. The smallest stump is probably 20" DBH and the largest one is pushing 24" DBH. The heighth I would only be guessing around 100" tall. I am getting three 26 foot sections out of them before hitting 8-9" diameter.

I am keeping the undercuts shallow to keep "meat" on the log. A lot of these trees are being wedged against backlean/side lean.
 
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Goofing around with a 40" cedar storm blow down so I'd have an undercut pic. Used conventional caus I cut the stump for the wife's furniture project. Ive cut trees bigger than this but have hardly ever bothered to take pic just never thought much until joining this site.
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tell the truth

PA:

I do not believe you.
They are very short stumps.
Nice flat cuts.
Looks to be perfectly even holding wood across the hinge.

How long did you say you've been falling trees?

(I do think your undercuts are too small, at least for use generally in larger timber. That doesn't mean that is mandatory, especially looking at the ones that went over with a reasonably thick hinge. Perhaps on the thin hinges, you could look back and consider that input.)

However, it is time to come clean on the experience question.
 
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I sense a trend

bks044:

Who is in the avatar?
They sure look the part .

What's next? Jerry Beranek asking us to evaluate his wedging technique?

Gentlemen, we are being had!
 
great.

I hope you fellas don't mind if I post the pictures here. They are pics from a logging job I am "trying" to do. These are what I am hoping to get my stumps/logs to look like. Please critique.

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Don't worry PA, you're doing great for a non pro! I've seen other loggers stumps that looked 10X worse. You're doing great! Your face is 1/5-1/4 into tree. You're cutting them as low as possible(that's where all the strength is). And you're backcut is either even with face or slightly above. And you're tree didn't leave the stump and broke the hinge properly. Getting your cuts level comes with expirence, you'll get better! Good job PA, for a beginner you're doing great!:rockn: ;) :D
 
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