Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
And here's Art dropping a big pine tree with a 16" bar (I think) and showing some tools of the trade .



Damn that guy is a pro. No hesitation. I wouldn't be brave enough to use that bar thing. Looks like the tree rocks back a little. I would be running away from that.
 
Never saw a screw in wedge used for falling.

The guy in the Jonsered video is using a method called 'snedding' - lots of YouTube videos on it. Scandinavian technique used on conifers, where the saw body is basically rested on, and dragged along, the trunk while removing all the little branches.

I am a believer in working on skill, and developing speed. I know that there are some who believe you motivate people to work fast, and they develop skill along the way in order to keep up.

Philbert

I must learn about this snedding. That looks sweet. I'd probably have a kickback though. Bar tip looked a little close on some kicks.

Ambull , the first guy's vids are still full of good info .

True. Sorry, I just hate Keanu Reeves and his jerky motions.
 
Soren Eriksson introduced many different techniques for cutting in the 1980s (?). Some have been accepted more than others. Some people reject/fought his approaches. You can Google his name for more info. You might really like his 'Game of Logging' (GOL) training, and look for a local session.

Philbert
 
Soren Eriksson introduced many different techniques for cutting in the 1980s (?). Some have been accepted more than others. Some people reject/fought his approaches. You can Google his name for more info. You might really like his 'Game of Logging' (GOL) training, and look for a local session.

Philbert

I've seen GOL mentioned a lot. Seems a lot of the pros don't like it for some reason?
 
Ah yes snedding.

When I finally saw what snedding was, I then understood why SawTroll always spits and sputters about saw handling.

Watching those videos it makes sense.

Sounds like snedding is synonymous with limbing, it's just what Europeans call it. So I'm guess the differences are they routinely use both sides of the bar and try to keep the body of the chainsaw on the log. In contrast, from Art's video, he mainly used the bottom of the bar and didn't rest the saw on the log. Seems like snedding would force you to bend really low the entire length of the log if it's resting on the ground.
 
Sounds like snedding is synonymous with limbing, it's just what Europeans call it.

I think it is more of one systematic approach used on specific types of trees. Not the only way to limb. Would not work on all species of trees, or all sizes. For production limbing of certain sized conifers.

Philbert
 
Until you get really proficient and comfortable with a chainsaw , don't go for speed when limbing. It will come as you gain more saw time. Armed with knowledge and PPE ( personal protection equipment) you will respect the dangers of cutting wood, not fear them.

Some wise words right there. Reminds me of Marine Corps boot camp. Had a Force Recon drill instructor. He kept telling us "slow is smooth, smooth is fast." He was right lol. Kept trying to rush and would be jerky and usually slow breaking down my rifle, making rack, etc. Decided to listen to him and concentrated on what I was doing. Speed really picked up. It worked for the rifle range too. Go through my correct sight alignment/sight picture, trigger squeeze, follow through, weapon on safe, plot shot in book, etc. Became a really good shooter doing that. Well, compared to what I was shooting.
 
I think it is more of one systematic approach used on specific types of trees. Not the only way to limb. Would not work on all species of trees, or all sizes. For production limbing of certain sized conifers.

Philbert
100% agree.
 
If I was cutting for a outfit and it was a company saw, I would not hesitate to limb with Eriksson's method. If it was my own saw, I would'nt. That seems like a lot of wear on those "pivot points" he speaks of. Can't think of a much quicker way to wear out a saw, than to be constantly dragging it over rough bark like that. JMO
 
Not to mention the pitch smeared all over the saw. I would imagine the clutch cover and the starter housing would take quite a beating and need to be replaced a few times. The knee thing sure seems like an accident waiting to happen for sure.
 
Great points. I was thinking the chain may snag on something/loosen with all the dragging. I'm kind of curious how they prevent kickbacks? If kickbacks occur when the upper tip of the chain/bar contacts something, this would look like a prime scenario for it to happen. Or perhaps I have no idea what I'm talking about. :)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top