Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Oops...
Discovered today that a 40yr old saw and 50:1 mix are a bad idea...
Jonny 670.
Cyl is ok, just some transfer. Piston and ring? Not do much...
I was helping a guy with his saws and some cutting...didn't know he'd used that mix ratio. Ear tuned in the cut...turned out way too lean. Oops...
View attachment 1118363View attachment 1118364
So, a question…
the oe cyl and piston are a “C”. I’m thinking of replacing the piston with a meteor kit but…can I get a C or will they just ship whatever?

or, just clean this one up, re-ring it and run it?
 
@blitzen I've seen a lot of guys start with these https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-carry-all and built 3pt carry alls out of them. I may do the same at some point. But now I just throw a saw in the cab with me.

There's also this https://bigtoolrack.com/products/ultimate but it'll be a cold day in hell before I spend 2,300.00 for a tractor purse!

@blitzen give us some info on that tractor. What brand/HP is it?
Thanks for your reply Jeff, I will look at the cab and see if that is possible. I have thought about building a carry-all. The tractor is a 2006 TYM T-700 with more than 650 hours on the clock, it weighs approx. 8600 pounds with the front-end loader and is powered by a John Deere 2.9l Power Tech engine. 70 horsepower. The tires are not filled and when working with wood I like to keep my 1500-pound flail mower on the back for ballast. here are a few pics of some stumps I have dug out with that tractor. I have not owned the tractor long I traded my 55-horsepower open station New Holland and some cash for this tractor and so far I am very happy with its performance. It is capable of so much more than the 55-horsepower tractor.
 

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a 3-pt holder would be ez to fab up! ~ :yes:
I may go that route but need the ballast when moving logs so I hang my Matthews Company 8.5' flail mower off the back.. My last tractor had the tires filled with beet juice but still needed the mower on the back for ballast. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
Most of the firewood in my stacks has been split with the Fiskars (or noodled.) But I have some difficult rounds that have been here awhile and some more recent twisted box elder and knotty pine. In my efforts to get the yard cleaned up after the hiatus with my knee issues, I thought this Craigslist splitter was the way to go. I fully expect to continue doing the "easy" rounds by hand.
I do a mix. I still like to split by hand and do. My right shoulder will only take so much tho some the knarley stuff all goes to the splitter. Hard to admit I need it but but if I'm stubborn about it the I get a choice. No sleep for several nights in a row or eat unhealthy amounts of antiinflammatories. It is what it is sometimes. It does help tho to occasionally watch a yuppie in his twenties not be able to split a 16" round of straight poplar. Makes me feel much better. I have my daughter do the easy ones like that!!!!
 
I may go that route but need the ballast when moving logs so I hang my Matthews Company 8.5' flail mower off the back.. My last tractor had the tires filled with beet juice but still needed the mower on the back for ballast. Thanks for the suggestion!
I do have a welder but I am not real confident that I can do a good enough job welding. I am willing to try...
hope your project goes well. plenty out there 'over the counter' light angle can be drilled and bolted.
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I do have a welder but I am not real confident that I can do a good enough job welding. I am willing to try...
good starting point avail from Tractor Supply $150

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fits pallets. so for 150ish... and a pallet... you could be in business. has holes. bolt on wood, no welding req'd! 🤩

no doubt fits cat 1 or 2 ~

:drinkingcoffee:
 
Good little welders for light duty stuff. If you got thick stuff to weld nothing beats a lincoln stick welder.
Right on sir.
A good weld prep with a grinder and those little welders will work mint with gasless flux cored. For fixing and building projects that's all you need. I'm definitely not a welder snob. All I have at home is an old Lincoln tombstone ac/dc stick machine. And I weld for a living. I do enough at work so it's not my hobby. That's why I enjoy the firewood so much.
Thanks, so I'll need a bigger welder since I don't like to do much prep work lol.
It may be a Lincoln 155.
It is :).
hi chipper, did u ever get any shop/garage greasy oil/spots absorbent! i like ur welder cart! ~
:drinkingcoffee:
Nope, but I have old t-shirts and paper towels!
Here's the bushing I made yesterday for the zero turn. Sure is nice having a decent table and a vice, I'll be ready to build a tank out of mower blades once I get the welder set up :laugh: .
Started as this.

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Turned into this. It's twice as thick as the metal that the pivot pin was previously in, stupid design from someone at exmark :dumb:.

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Nope, but I have old t-shirts and paper towels!
Here's the bushing I made yesterday for the zero turn. Sure is nice having a decent table and a vice, I'll be ready to build a tank out of mower blades once I get the welder set up :laugh: .
Started as this.

View attachment 1118447

Turned into this. It's twice as thick as the metal that the pivot pin was previously in, stupid design from someone at exmark :dumb:.

View attachment 1118448
looks like a spacer plate to me! but, i could be wrong. 🤷‍♂️was the steel hard? i never have drilled an old mower blade. was that blade off one of ur mower projects? omg ~

nice job! i am assuming ur wire wheeled it, then painted it black.... 🤷‍♂️
:drinkingcoffee:
 
looks like a spacer plate to me! but, i could be wrong. 🤷‍♂️was the steel hard? i never have drilled an old mower blade. was that blade off one of ur mower projects? omg ~

nice job! i am assuming ur wire wheeled it, then painted it black.... 🤷‍♂️
:drinkingcoffee:
Well, You can call it whatever you'd like, since it's not on a parts list I have no idea what it's called. It's a bolt on aftermarket pivot spacer plate lol. Very hard, spent 27 bucks at true value on a couple new bits after mine dulled near instantly trying to drill it :oops:. It's just like drilling a chainsaw bar, very hard and a lot thicker.
It was off one of the mowers(one I replaced when I got it though), our yard eats up a high lift blade in one yr on an exmark(I usually mow at least a few other yards too though), but not quite that bad.
Thanks. Nope, just hit it with the metabo cutoff wheel I used to cut it and grind the burrs from drilling, then ground the corners and edges to clean it up. I'll be pulling it off to use as a template for the other side and maybe I'll paint it then, maybe not as it will be cold out most likely, maybe next spring(but maybe not).
 
Well, You can call it whatever you'd like, since it's not on a parts list I have no idea what it's called. It's a bolt on aftermarket pivot spacer plate lol. Very hard, spent 27 bucks at true value on a couple new bits after mine dulled near instantly trying to drill it :oops:. It's just like drilling a chainsaw bar, very hard and a lot thicker.
It was off one of the mowers(one I replaced when I got it though), our yard eats up a high lift blade in one yr on an exmark(I usually mow at least a few other yards too though), but not quite that bad.
Thanks. Nope, just hit it with the metabo cutoff wheel I used to cut it and grind the burrs from drilling, then ground the corners and edges to clean it up. I'll be pulling it off to use as a template for the other side and maybe I'll paint it then, maybe not as it will be cold out most likely, maybe next spring(but maybe not).
in any event, job well done. you are more adaptive in some areas of mechanical work than i am... but, even i... would have chose to use some mild steel plate or bar. such as HD/L sells if none on premise from scrounge adventures. not everyone here is pleased with all my junk steel... lol :rolleyes: but i got plenty.

hmm, pricey plate! :surprised3:
wondering, could u have used aluminum? under $5 at Lowes
1696775862027.png
plenty for other side. and the metal box, too (inventory)

wish i could get up there, would bring u a 'house warming' gift... bag of Absorbs-It-All.... maybe i can drop bag one next time on the way up to the next beer-and-gtg at Nw's backwoods fish camp.... 🤩
 
in any event, job well done. you are more adaptive in some areas of mechanical work than i am... but, even i... would have chose to use some mild steel plate or bar. such as HD/L sells if none on premise from scrounge adventures. not everyone here is pleased with all my junk steel... lol :rolleyes: but i got plenty.

hmm, pricey plate! :surprised3:
wondering, could u have used aluminum? under $5 at Lowes
View attachment 1118453
plenty for other side. and the metal box, too (inventory)

wish i could get up there, would bring u a 'house warming' gift... bag of Absorbs-It-All.... maybe i can drop bag one next time on the way up to the next beer-and-gtg at Nw's backwoods fish camp.... 🤩
i updated it
 
tin any event, job well done. you are more adaptive in some areas of mechanical work than i am... but, even i... would have chose to use some mild steel plate or bar. such as HD/L sells if none on premise from scrounge adventures. not everyone here is pleased with all my junk steel... lol :rolleyes: but i got plenty.

hmm, pricey plate! :surprised3:
wondering, could u have used aluminum? under $5 at Lowes
View attachment 1118453
plenty for other side. and the metal box, too (inventory)

wish i could get up there, would bring u a 'house warming' gift... bag of Absorbs-It-All.... maybe i can drop bag one next time on the way up to the next beer-and-gtg at Nw's backwoods fish camp.... 🤩

I have plenty of "mild" steel here, but I wanted something harder; that being said, it more than making 10 out of the mild steel after buying those bits :envy::sucks:, but one and done now. I wouldn't use aluminum without a bushing, and at that point I'd have just drilled out the chassis and put a shouldered bushing in, aluminum is way too soft. Not sure I'll be keeping this one, there are a number of things I don't like about it, but it's much better now than it was. Still need to do the head gaskets, but it's not burning quite as much oil as it was before. I may need to get the valves/ valve seats done too as it seems a bit excessive even for a Kohler.

I'll be fine, a little kitty litter sometime and all will be well. Besides, it's gonna get some stains on it :yes:.
 
Yes, at least some of them! The "red lever" saws were like owning a muscle car from the late 60s! They were some of the strongest running saws out there ... then the EPA stepped in. The 12mm saws were more durable, but the 10 mm saws were lighter, and the ones that did not have problems generally ran stronger.

Mine has never had problems.

That's a lot of the 0-series Stihls...started out strong in the 80s/early 90s and then got dumbed down. Kinda similar with flat top vs round top 066s. The flat tops ran really well out of the box...I didn't do much to the ones I ported. Mostly just a "clean-up" and minor machine work. I've got a round top 066 that runs really well, but it took machine work, porting, and a loud exhaust to get there(triple port.)

So, a question…
the oe cyl and piston are a “C”. I’m thinking of replacing the piston with a meteor kit but…can I get a C or will they just ship whatever?

or, just clean this one up, re-ring it and run it?

Meteor does make different piston sizes, I just don't know if they do for your particular application. Even if they did, it might be a giant PITA to get the most correct size. Most of the Meteor stuff that is sold by the big online retailers are AB pistons, meaning they are for either an A or a B cylinder. You could run the smaller piston, you might lose out on a bit of compression and maybe wear the piston skirts out a smidge quicker(slight rocking in the bore.)
 
I have plenty of "mild" steel here, but I wanted something harder; that being said, it more than making 10 out of the mild steel after buying those bits :envy::sucks:, but one and done now. I wouldn't use aluminum without a bushing, and at that point I'd have just drilled out the chassis and put a shouldered bushing in, aluminum is way too soft. Not sure I'll be keeping this one, there are a number of things I don't like about it, but it's much better now than it was. Still need to do the head gaskets, but it's not burning quite as much oil as it was before. I may need to get the valves/ valve seats done too as it seems a bit excessive even for a Kohler.

I'll be fine, a little kitty litter sometime and all will be well. Besides, it's gonna get some stains on it :yes:.
i'll be the last to fault your engineering! :rock2:
... just seemed like a spacer to me, and in compression metal with a big rockwell, ?? about as good as a thin pce oak. well, imo.... 🤩

and painted black, or xMark red... well, u get the idea... lol
:givebeer:
 
All this welder talk has be jonesin' for a TIG welder. I've got 2 wire-feeds, Hobart 230 and a Millermatic 150. I've had the Miller for years, it's basically a low-amperage 220v welder...performs like a light-duty 220v or a HD 110v set up. Anyway, I did all sort of minor fabrication with the Millermatic for years. It's all about prep work, but I can get decent penetration with it.

As I got more into building things, I bought the Hobart 230 a few years ago. I love that welder, basically can weld any thickness steel that I want to weld. My original intent was the Hobart was going to be my "fabrication" welder and the Miller was going to be for sheet metal. However, the Hobart does so well, that I pretty much use it for everything.

It has me thinking about offloading the Miller for a TIG, as I'd like to be able to weld aluminum. The Miller is an orphan anyway, you can't even get parts from Miller anymore. I had to make my own drive roller for it, when the last roller wore out.

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All this welder talk has be jonesin' for a TIG welder. I've got 2 wire-feeds, Hobart 230 and a Millermatic 150. I've had the Miller for years, it's basically a low-amperage 220v welder...performs like a light-duty 220v or a HD 110v set up. Anyway, I did all sort of minor fabrication with the Millermatic for years. It's all about prep work, but I can get decent penetration with it.

As I got more into building things, I bought the Hobart 230 a few years ago. I love that welder, basically can weld any thickness steel that I want to weld. My original intent was the Hobart was going to be my "fabrication" welder and the Miller was going to be for sheet metal. However, the Hobart does so well, that I pretty much use it for everything.

It has me thinking about offloading the Miller for a TIG, as I'd like to be able to weld aluminum. The Miller is an orphan anyway, you can't even get parts from Miller anymore. I had to make my own drive roller for it, when the last roller wore out.

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That's a nice setup. I hope to get a 12x16' area in the barn set up for welding, it's right by where I put 8" pads with rebar in the concrete for a lift, which should make any trailer projects and whatnot a lot easier. A good welder is on the list, and I'm sure it will come at one point; but there are many other things on the list too, just a matter of which deal comes along first. I wasn't planning on spending the money on a welder until the barn was enclosed, so a freebie just prior to that happening is quite the blessing. I managed to score a cheaper craftsman upright compressor and a hose reel for the airline I want to get hooked up right away once I get the interior walls of the main covered with OSB(per my prints), and a heavy gauge wire for the welders up over the walls/ceiling and hardwired in for the welder(had that in mind before having one). Those are very high on the list after the service door is on an interior wall with a door is built for my 12x14 shop, backing for the siding is installed, all the trim and j-channel is in place, wainscoting is installed(hopefully with insulation behind it, siding is installed(also with insulation behind it, OSB spoken of above is installed(also with insulation behind it), some basic electrical/outlets are installed. So as you can see it's high on the list :laugh:, but you gotta have some sort of plan, right :).
I'm still laughing at this post:laughing: .
Sad you can't get parts for the miller :rare2:, good you can make at least some of them.
Yep, little homeowner welder will weld your projects just fine. Same as a wild thing will cut your firewood! Lol. Buncha guys running souped up muffler modded, base gasket deleted, timing advanced, ported pro saws with custom chains on premium bars. Going to weld up their wood getters with a buzzbox. 😂
:laughing:
Welder mods coming soon!
 
I did not know you spoke Brooklyn!!! I remember "earl" (oil) and terlet (toilet) really well when I was a kid!!

My best friend's father (a marine from the pacific in WW2 who was from Brooklyn) used those terms all the time.
I was thinking of the way Archie Bunker use to say it. Didn't know the proper "Brooklyn" spelling.
 
That's a nice setup. I hope to get a 12x16' area in the barn set up for welding, it's right by where I put 8" pads with rebar in the concrete for a lift, which should make any trailer projects and whatnot a lot easier. A good welder is on the list, and I'm sure it will come at one point; but there are many other things on the list too, just a matter of which deal comes along first. I wasn't planning on spending the money on a welder until the barn was enclosed, so a freebie just prior to that happening is quite the blessing. I managed to score a cheaper craftsman upright compressor and a hose reel for the airline I want to get hooked up right away once I get the interior walls of the main covered with OSB(per my prints), and a heavy gauge wire for the welders up over the walls/ceiling and hardwired in for the welder(had that in mind before having one). Those are very high on the list after the service door is on an interior wall with a door is built for my 12x14 shop, backing for the siding is installed, all the trim and j-channel is in place, wainscoting is installed(hopefully with insulation behind it, siding is installed(also with insulation behind it, OSB spoken of above is installed(also with insulation behind it), some basic electrical/outlets are installed. So as you can see it's high on the list :laugh:, but you gotta have some sort of plan, right :).
I'm still laughing at this post:laughing: .
Sad you can't get parts for the miller :rare2:, good you can make at least some of them.

:laughing:
Welder mods coming soon!

It's an okay set up...almost the best I can do for the space constraints. The entire space is only 30'x35' and I park 2 pickups in there...and several motos. Besides the small welding area, I've got my mill and lathe on the opposite wall. Also a 30' long workbench that runs the entirety of the back wall.

In the near future, I might build an enclosed carport so I can move one of the trucks outside. I was also thinking of adding a 10x35 room off the side of the shop and moving all the welding and machining tools into that. At the very least, building a lean-to in order to move the 80 gallon 2 stage, noisy AF compressor outside.
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