If you have good flow then it's either air or the carb imho. Carbs are cheap but first replace the lines then look at either rebuilding the carb or buying a new one. That would be my course of action. Interested in what you find outThanks. Good flow to the carb.
You sure the choke cable is on properly, some can be put on backward and you'd basically be choking it when you shut and opening the air when it's not choked.11 or 12 hp Briggs single cylinder.
Good flow to the carb.
Smooth with choke on but dies quickly if I try to back in out of the choke position.
Only other thing I could possibly imagine is the float not pulling the needle up high enough.
Thanks!@bob kern I just had a thought. Have you checked the muffler to ensure it flows? Maybe a mud dauber decided to build a nest in it.
I thought of another odd one. A friend of ours had a push mower I had cleaned the carb on, fast forward a few yrs and someone else cleaned it again in the spring(I was busy). She calls me and says it will only run on either, so I head over. Pull the carb and it was really clean, then I remembered that dang thing, it had done the same thing to me that the new guy was having a problem with. Ends up the fuel flows into the bowl thru a hole in the bowl screw/bolt, if the bolt isn't clocked properly, you get no fuel into the bowl.Thanks!
Yet another good thought but it flows well. It blows right on my knee when I'm mess ing with the carb!
MaWorked the wood pile for 5 hours today View attachment 1206948View attachment 1206949View attachment 1206950
Sliced off the burl on one piece of maple View attachment 1206951
And I always end up slabbing a couple of pieces these are quarter sawn oak View attachment 1206952
Mark, give me a call! I've got info on the Yukon!!Worked the wood pile for 5 hours today View attachment 1206948View attachment 1206949View attachment 1206950
Sliced off the burl on one piece of maple View attachment 1206951
And I always end up slabbing a couple of pieces these are quarter sawn oak View attachment 1206952
Don't think I've ever worked on that style.This is the demon carb in question!View attachment 1207174
You ain't missing much ! LolDon't think I've ever worked on that style.
I think I have it in a text, I'll see if I can find it.I'd be curious to know what he went with, if you don't mind asking. I initially had a 10 pack of 8 foot lights picked out, for around $200.00. Just didn't think I needed the extra light since my temporary lights lit the shop up pretty well. (Almost as good as the 10 lights I just got.)
Hey Bob, does it have an intake of any kind between the cylinder head and carb?I have not done a compression check. Do you believe that could cause running on choke only?
Leak down test for that would be better then a compression test. Stupid auto compression release always gives screwed up readings.How full is the bowl when you lower it?
The float may not be adjusted correctly allowing adequate fuel
For giggles, did you do a compression test?
Air/Fuel/Spark
Compression falls under Air in my mind…
This most certainly sounds like you've got a stopped up passage. Most times it is the idle circuit because they have the smallest passages. Can be very frustrating to get cleared out. I have taken small strands of copper wire and snuck them through the passages, left them sitting for a week in a cancer cleaning bucket. If you are so inclined you can block off the intake side and hook the engine side up to a really powerful vacuum which will sometimes pull the obstruction through as that forces all of the suction through the fuel passages. This works especially if you have had it soaking as it will soften (if it can be) what ever is stopping it up.It does seem to have plenty of resistance on the starter. I put back in the old needle and float which it had been running fine with and no change.
Thanks. I have a couple 2" long wires I run through these passages. Pretty sure they are clear but I may try again. Especially if the new carb fixes it.This most certainly sounds like you've got a stopped up passage. Most times it is the idle circuit because they have the smallest passages. Can be very frustrating to get cleared out. I have taken small strands of copper wire and snuck them through the passages, left them sitting for a week in a cancer cleaning bucket. If you are so inclined you can block off the intake side and hook the engine side up to a really powerful vacuum which will sometimes pull the obstruction through as that forces all of the suction through the fuel passages. This works especially if you have had it soaking as it will soften (if it can be) what ever is stopping it up.
Good luck with the new carb, it will probably be fine, but the one that was on my splitter had an egg shaped throttle bore and even with the butterfly completely shut it would still run away on no load and almost stall on load. Super annoying to figure that one out.Thanks. I have a couple 2" long wires I run through these passages. Pretty sure they are clear but I may try again. Especially if the new carb fixes it.
Definitely out of the thousands out there most are ok, but if there is a bad one you can guarantee it is going to find its way into my possession.The knock off carbs I've used have generally been reliable, and I've installed a lot of them over the years. The few you have issues with arnt the norm. Buy off Amazon and getting the junk ones replaced is pretty easy.
110% true, but in here…. You and I surely have a leak down tester, not sure about the other fellas. But I’d bet 75% of them have a compression gaugeLeak down test for that would be better then a compression test. Stupid auto compression release always gives screwed up readings.
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