Ma
Mark, give me a call! I've got info on the Yukon!!
I've been putting in a few hours a day, in the rain, on the Oak pile. Still have 3 more big dead ones to takedown.
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
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I've been putting in a few hours a day, in the rain, on the Oak pile. Still have 3 more big dead ones to takedown.
Don't think I've ever worked on that style.
You ain't missing much ! Lol
I think I have it in a text, I'll see if I can find it.
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
Hey Bob, does it have an intake of any kind between the cylinder head and carb?
Check it for air leaks, spray it with carb cleaner while it’s running
Gotta be an air leak. And yes one time, had a mower low on breath that would only run on choke
Leak down test for that would be better then a compression test. Stupid auto compression release always gives screwed up readings.
EchovsStihl63
ArboristSite Operative
This most certainly sounds like you've got a stopped up passage. Most times it is the idle circuit because they have the smallest passages. Can be very frustrating to get cleared out. I have taken small strands of copper wire and snuck them through the passages, left them sitting for a week in a cancer cleaning bucket. If you are so inclined you can block off the intake side and hook the engine side up to a really powerful vacuum which will sometimes pull the obstruction through as that forces all of the suction through the fuel passages. This works especially if you have had it soaking as it will soften (if it can be) what ever is stopping it up.
Thanks. I have a couple 2" long wires I run through these passages. Pretty sure they are clear but I may try again. Especially if the new carb fixes it.
EchovsStihl63
ArboristSite Operative
Good luck with the new carb, it will probably be fine, but the one that was on my splitter had an egg shaped throttle bore and even with the butterfly completely shut it would still run away on no load and almost stall on load. Super annoying to figure that one out.
You could have an intake leak if you're certain the carb is clean.
The knock off carbs I've used have generally been reliable, and I've installed a lot of them over the years. The few you have issues with arnt the norm. Buy off Amazon and getting the junk ones replaced is pretty easy.
EchovsStihl63
ArboristSite Operative
Definitely out of the thousands out there most are ok, but if there is a bad one you can guarantee it is going to find its way into my possession.
I have been burned more than once by them so I generally just stay away all together.
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
110% true, but in here…. You and I surely have a leak down tester, not sure about the other fellas. But I’d bet 75% of them have a compression gauge
What’s your thought on when I should change the break in oil I put in the Predator? It’s been maybe 5hrs and oil is cheap enough. I was gonna go 10, but since oil costs me 0.00 I was thinking of doing it this weekend. You think by now, it’s “clearanced” itself?
Got some new rims for my 68 truck truck as it sits now 
Now do I put the letters out or go black walls
Now do I put the letters out or go black walls
White letter with those rims
Was it break in oil, or regular oil? Don' think I ever changed mine, but it is due.
If it said break in oil, how long did it say to run it?
What’s the manual say ? My Honda said 20 hours and to use 10-30 oil . I put synthetic in it . I just did the yearly oil change a few weeks ago . I also changed hydraulic fluid . Have to admit I went way over the scheduled change . But the fluid looked like new and the filter was clean .
Was up at the cabin on Tue/Wed. The logging is about done, and I got my final check from the logger. The $ received was on the high end of my expectations as about 1/2 of my property cannot be logged because a tornado wiped out the trees in 1998. I got almost the same amount as another guy that bragged about getting for having 100 acres logged. Most of it was Ash, but also some Black Cherry, Hard and Soft Maple, and a few Red Oaks.
While up there (alone) I moved the main solar panel up on the roof of the new bathroom. Was tough to do alone, and I did it Tue night as heavy rain was predicted for all day Wed, but did not arrive till 3:00. Had to make a rope handle for the solar panel (to make it less likely to drop) and put legs on it (so it would not slide down), but I got it done.
I ratchet strapped the top of the ladder for safety, but when you are up there alone on a ladder in the dark you still get a bit nervous. But I figured the logger would find me in the morning if anything went wrong!
I also used an $18 water pump from HF (powered by my cordless drill) to transfer water from my gutter collecting 55-gallon drum to another one so we will have enough water when we do the floor. Worked surprisingly well, looked like I was running the hose from home!
Also hung two more trail cameras (we now have 4), cleared some shooting lanes and cut some Ash rounds and even split some with the X-27. No pics of the Ash as I was too fatigued by then.
While up there (alone) I moved the main solar panel up on the roof of the new bathroom. Was tough to do alone, and I did it Tue night as heavy rain was predicted for all day Wed, but did not arrive till 3:00. Had to make a rope handle for the solar panel (to make it less likely to drop) and put legs on it (so it would not slide down), but I got it done.
I ratchet strapped the top of the ladder for safety, but when you are up there alone on a ladder in the dark you still get a bit nervous. But I figured the logger would find me in the morning if anything went wrong!
I also used an $18 water pump from HF (powered by my cordless drill) to transfer water from my gutter collecting 55-gallon drum to another one so we will have enough water when we do the floor. Worked surprisingly well, looked like I was running the hose from home!
Also hung two more trail cameras (we now have 4), cleared some shooting lanes and cut some Ash rounds and even split some with the X-27. No pics of the Ash as I was too fatigued by then.
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that sucks. I was pretty skeptical of them years ago, but that thought has long since left the building.
Very true about the leak down teater, i often forget not everyone has tools kike that laying around.
5 hours would be sufficient imo, not unusual to see 10+ hours listed in manuals though. More worried about flushing any debris/ metal etc from the sump then anything. Rings and cam should be seated pretty quickly, really. Getting a decent load helps the rings more then anything.
Generally I try to change oil yearly after that break in period.
Changing hydro fluid is mostly pointless. If it's not contaminated, (dirt, system debris or water.) Or been overheated there no real reason to change it. It doesn't experience the same demands as engine oil and isn't subject to combustion gasses or the high temps. Bright and clear leave it be imo.
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
I’ll check the manual tomorrow
Now you got me thinking I should install a filter to protect my new pump.
Hmmmm
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
As many times as I've seen junk (swarf) come out of those engines on the first oil change, I change it the first time, after a couple hours. You don't really believe they have "break in oil" in them, do you?
Like you said, oil is cheeeep!
SR
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