headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
when you say "I would just make it simple and just set in in place , No welding to the stack. Just heavy mild steel so it would sit there to try it out."
are you talking about a damper?
Shaver Improvement Forum
- Thread starter ngzcaz
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
when you say "I would just make it simple and just set in in place , No welding to the stack. Just heavy mild steel so it would sit there to try it out."
are you talking about a damper?
scag52
ArboristSite Operative
No sorry , I meant the stack blocker. I have a top notch fab guy that I hire to install these furnaces . I'm going to ask him about the damper for the stack. Seems like someone would have tried it by now . Dont see any other brands with one. Still worth looking into.
Last edited:
John D
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ive been thinking about it for a while,just been busy with other things....my first method was going to be another solenoid,like the one on the air door.....then i thought about a counterweight,so the fan would be enough to open it,but then the wind would be too,and cresote would eventually make it too heavy to open or stick it...Im watching whatever you do here,im very interested,a lot of heat comes out that stack when its idling,I think a closing cap with a tiny hole so no pressure builds would be ideal...
scag52
ArboristSite Operative
I also liked the idea of the tractor cap . Man that stove would look diesel with a big chrome flapper on top . LOL
I did some stuff recently that made a huge difference. Not sure what did the most though. Here are my changes.
built garage around stove
finally installed ranco at stove and one in shop
changed shop to run on demand instead of 24/7
Added shim to door and re-siliconed
Last winter i could only get 12-14 hours max. yestersday i waited 26 hours on purpose and it still had a lot of wood in it . I dont want touch nothing now . LOL
I did some stuff recently that made a huge difference. Not sure what did the most though. Here are my changes.
built garage around stove
finally installed ranco at stove and one in shop
changed shop to run on demand instead of 24/7
Added shim to door and re-siliconed
Last winter i could only get 12-14 hours max. yestersday i waited 26 hours on purpose and it still had a lot of wood in it . I dont want touch nothing now . LOL
Last edited:
John D
Addicted to ArboristSite
Changing my pumps to run on demand added a few hours to my burn times easily,especially in the warmer months...almost doubled it...I think my lines are leaking water in,If id went with logstor,probably wouldnt have as big an improvement....
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
I've thought about the damper for a long time now and IMO and external, flat plate flapper would be the best solution because it's the simplest and eases concerns about creosote build-up. again my opinion, not fact, save any flames.
You'd have to play with weighting, springs or whatever mechanism you choose (if any), but a solenoid would be pretty easy, but not real pretty
If the stack pressure is enough to open the flapper, then great, but if it's not.... I'm picturing a coiled spring (if you've ever messed with an automatic choke on a carb - that's what I'm picturing) to help the flapper out, but it's weak enough to let the flapper down when stack pressure drops.
I like simple.
You'd have to play with weighting, springs or whatever mechanism you choose (if any), but a solenoid would be pretty easy, but not real pretty
If the stack pressure is enough to open the flapper, then great, but if it's not.... I'm picturing a coiled spring (if you've ever messed with an automatic choke on a carb - that's what I'm picturing) to help the flapper out, but it's weak enough to let the flapper down when stack pressure drops.
I like simple.
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
that's me now 12-14 hrs absolute MAX (single digits at night, 20 in day) and that's with all dry hickory, beech and oak! Stove is resinsulated, flapper on blower, ranco installed and pumps on demand...it's heating a well insualted brand new house (1862 sq. ft) and DHW, no out buildings. I'm kinda disappointed actually. Need to redo the door silicone, get a whiff out of one spot but still !
Last edited:
Damper..
Ok, I cleaned out the flue and set a piece of steel over the pipe and left about 1/3 of it opened for a test. The house and shop were calling for heat so the fan was on and pumps were running. It actually recovered very quickly and then everything shut down as per normal. 1/2 hour later the 250 started to boil. I had to take the plate off to let out some heat. Maybe that is why the guy I knew had an adjustable setup, Unsure. It seems like the damper would work when running low on wood but when she is full and burning, She needs to breathe. It seems like you would need a damper that worked off of water temp to open when the unit fire up and closes accordingly when it starts to cool a bit. Unsure. I will try only closing off 1/2 of the pipe and see what that brings. There has to be a way but I would rather dampen up top than inside the pipe.
Ok, I cleaned out the flue and set a piece of steel over the pipe and left about 1/3 of it opened for a test. The house and shop were calling for heat so the fan was on and pumps were running. It actually recovered very quickly and then everything shut down as per normal. 1/2 hour later the 250 started to boil. I had to take the plate off to let out some heat. Maybe that is why the guy I knew had an adjustable setup, Unsure. It seems like the damper would work when running low on wood but when she is full and burning, She needs to breathe. It seems like you would need a damper that worked off of water temp to open when the unit fire up and closes accordingly when it starts to cool a bit. Unsure. I will try only closing off 1/2 of the pipe and see what that brings. There has to be a way but I would rather dampen up top than inside the pipe.
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
if it's boiling when nothing is calling for heat does that indicate air leakage (ie: around doors, blower fan flapper, etc) inducing a draft?
Windwalker7
ArboristSite Guru
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
true, you could play with your temp settings though. anyway - didn't mean to digress the thread.
In this case it may just have been that the stove shut down when it got up to temp but there was still a fire raging in there so it suddenly was not using heat and it quickly built up to a boil. After I took off the plate I turned on my shop floor pump to help cool it down and in a few minutes it stopped boiling. It didn't't boil hard, I just heard the bubbles gurgling..Still worth a few more tries.
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
absolutely worth a few more tries
smus
ArboristSite Member
I have burned coal in my 165 and have heard it boil WHILE coming up to temp due to higher internal temps during the burn cycle. It never seemed to do any harm.
If the temp "climbed" to boil, and that is out of the norm, it would seem logical that you retained enough energy to boil the water that would have normally been lost after the burn cycle. Sounds to me like you are saving energy and are headed in a positive direction.
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
agree it's all about harnessing every bit of energy you can with our system.
Both of my Shavers have steamed like mad once they got to a rolling boil. I don't want that. But. The fact that it will boil may mean that higher water temps with a smaller fire = Less wood. Looks good on paper don't it?
fletcher0780
ArboristSite Operative
How about this, 6" galvanized and only $14.95:
Last edited:
Windwalker7
ArboristSite Guru
Is it just me, or do I see light bulbs going off in people's minds with Fletcher's post?
The gears are starting to turn.
I even have a feeling Fletcher has a plan, LOL!
The gears are starting to turn.
I even have a feeling Fletcher has a plan, LOL!
I was set at 165 and when everything suddenly shuts down ( because of the open flap on the fan ) there is still a violent fire going in there. To plug up the exhaust by 2/3 was too much. I plan to try 1/2 tomorrow and 1/3 after that. Yes using a Ranco. One good thing I noticed when I removed the plate was not too much creosote. It was nice and brown. I used an infared thermometer and it only read 212 degrees. It did not boil badly because I started turning pumps on and adding water.
Last edited:
Similar threads
