John D
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hehe you guys are too funny! Next time just tell the Mrs. that you are flushing the OWB..... you meant to do that!
Shaver Improvement Forum
- Thread starter ngzcaz
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Windwalker7
ArboristSite Guru
Yomax,
I'm not sure if your dealer got you in touch with these guys or not
http://www.woodboilersolutions.com/
I ordered one of their test kits, the one with the little bottles of chemicals (Analysis kit)
It allows you to test to see if there is enough chemicals (Solution 101) in the boiler.
Might want to give them a call.
I'm not sure if your dealer got you in touch with these guys or not
http://www.woodboilersolutions.com/
I ordered one of their test kits, the one with the little bottles of chemicals (Analysis kit)
It allows you to test to see if there is enough chemicals (Solution 101) in the boiler.
Might want to give them a call.
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jmruggiero
ArboristSite Lurker
wood useage
this is my first year heating with a shaver 165. started it up last week of sept., as of now i have used about 2 3/4 of wood. i am heating my house and attached garage at 72deg.24/7,about 2500sq.ft. also my hot tub and hot water. i did the blower , and ranco digital temp control and insluated between the door plate.just wondering if my wood useage sounds in line? i feel it is but this is new to me having the fire outside, for over 30years it's been an inside stove. jim
this is my first year heating with a shaver 165. started it up last week of sept., as of now i have used about 2 3/4 of wood. i am heating my house and attached garage at 72deg.24/7,about 2500sq.ft. also my hot tub and hot water. i did the blower , and ranco digital temp control and insluated between the door plate.just wondering if my wood useage sounds in line? i feel it is but this is new to me having the fire outside, for over 30years it's been an inside stove. jim
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as of now i have used about 2 3/4 of wood?
not sure how much wood you are talking about, but I figure I will burn about 10 cords a year, heating house, water with my 265. I think it is a lot of wood, but it is sure nice having a warm house and all the hot water you can use.
not sure how much wood you are talking about, but I figure I will burn about 10 cords a year, heating house, water with my 265. I think it is a lot of wood, but it is sure nice having a warm house and all the hot water you can use.
scag52
ArboristSite Operative
I think your about right. That hot tub probably takes a good amount of wood to keep heated.You could install a programable thermostat to lower the temp when your not home or at night. Make sure theres no air getting into the stove when its shut down also.
jmruggiero
ArboristSite Lurker
my hot tub holds it's heat pretty well and the water heater from the owb recovers it pretty fast. my runs run 24/7 especially for the hot tub because of the daily cycles it goes through , the delay of hot water would not work well.i use a 1 deg. deff.on my stat.
Funny how when I go out to the 250 in the morning and it is quiet and seemingly in the closed down mode but I can hear the fan . Then I poke the coals or move a log and she Rears the Blow Torch Head and Rages like mad. It seems like there should be enough fan to make it rage when ever the fan is on and eat up the coals. I mean, I just barely move coals and the thing goes nuts. I don't undertand why it acts that way. I thought about a few 1" tubes protuding from the ash pan up a few inches above the grate. maybe that would let the air out from below when there is a good bed of coals. I currently have a plate covering the front 1/4 of the grate to keep the Rage in the center of the stove. I may weld a few tubes into the plate to try it. I have no idea what it will do.
ngzcaz
ArboristSite Operative
You may be on the right track. The ash bed can be too thick and chokes the fire. The only down side I see other than them getting in the way of putting on wood are the tubes getting choked on creosote like the chimney.
BTW, if anyone is still using the stock t-stat, I noticed a similarity to the one on my oil burner. I normally set my oil burner at 170/150 in the winter, a 20 degree difference. The stat on my OWB is currently set at 150. The actual temp goes to a tad over 170, drops to a tad over 150 then the draft motor kicks on. I have a water temp gauge that is directly in the metal fitting on my pex tubing that goes to the oil burner so I know what the OWB water temp is at any given time. On my 165 this hasn't been a problem because it recovers nicely. A larger unit may have to turn on earlier as noted by some to get up to temp. If one adds 20 degrees to the stock stat it actually is quite accurate. I maintain a check on the aquastat on my oil boiler. My pex is piped directly in the OWB and the temps are w/in a couple of degrees of where they should be. Whether the stock stat is set to turn off or on at a designated setting is something I don't know. ( 150 actually means 170 ) Obviously it shouldn't be a 20 degree difference but in my case it works to the point where I haven't changed it yet.
:monkey:
BTW, if anyone is still using the stock t-stat, I noticed a similarity to the one on my oil burner. I normally set my oil burner at 170/150 in the winter, a 20 degree difference. The stat on my OWB is currently set at 150. The actual temp goes to a tad over 170, drops to a tad over 150 then the draft motor kicks on. I have a water temp gauge that is directly in the metal fitting on my pex tubing that goes to the oil burner so I know what the OWB water temp is at any given time. On my 165 this hasn't been a problem because it recovers nicely. A larger unit may have to turn on earlier as noted by some to get up to temp. If one adds 20 degrees to the stock stat it actually is quite accurate. I maintain a check on the aquastat on my oil boiler. My pex is piped directly in the OWB and the temps are w/in a couple of degrees of where they should be. Whether the stock stat is set to turn off or on at a designated setting is something I don't know. ( 150 actually means 170 ) Obviously it shouldn't be a 20 degree difference but in my case it works to the point where I haven't changed it yet.
:monkey:
I had tried 3 or 4 of the standard Shaver water heater type temp stats. I didn't like the differential of the 1st 2. I got 2 different styles at 2 different stores and in my findings they all reacted differently. Some let the temp drop 15-20 degrees and then kicked on and some would not let the temp get below what you set it at. Both had larger temp differentials that's why I am so happy with the Ranco and aquastats on all my other loops. The water temp stays pretty much the same all the time..
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
Yeah - I have the same thing with the coals man. The Shaver likes to burn towards the front of the grate (towards to door) IMO. When the air leaves the blower, it just heads straight for the ash door, hits a straight wall, can't go down, so it goes up. That's my thought process atleast. A more evenly distributed airflow would help the uneven burn I'd think.
I've thought about this a bit and I picture a single pipe coming directly off the blower, inside the ash "pan", bend up towards the "floor of the fire", Y and then run down each side of the grating. Each "leg" having hoples drilled in it, aiming up at ~ 45° towards the firebox, to distribute the air wiht the ends of each leg capped/ welded shut.
There's a million ways to do it, just the best of the scenarios in my head.
John D
Addicted to ArboristSite
My 250 behaves the same exact way.... it just needs a little poking of the wood and to move the coals around a little bit. I like it burning from the front of the stove.I try to keep the fire right behind the door. I think you get more heat transfer to the water jacket that way. I keep the back 2 feet of the stove empty exc for on really cold nights.....
ngzcaz
ArboristSite Operative
When the wood extends the length of the boiler and lies directly under the chimney, is it any wonder you can see fire coming out of the stack ? This is the first year I'm trying to keep it short and to the side of the chimney. Next year I'll be cutting a little less in length.
:agree2:
:agree2:
ngzcaz
ArboristSite Operative
On a sort of related note, the blizzard on the East coast ( still 40 mph winds ) made me take a look at the OWB and make a few trips downstairs to see if the water temps were w/in specs due to all the wind. Relieved to say they didn't seem to be any higher than before. I thought the winds may have pulled the damper open and fired the boiler on its own.
I know a lot of guys changed from the slotted draft factory thingamabob. Anyone have any issues we should know about ?
I know a lot of guys changed from the slotted draft factory thingamabob. Anyone have any issues we should know about ?
jmruggiero
ArboristSite Lurker
blower moter
does anyone have the granger part no. for the blower motor assy. for the shaver 165.
does anyone have the granger part no. for the blower motor assy. for the shaver 165.
Funny, I just mailed a Christmas Present in the Blower Box. My 1st Shaver, A 165 had so many leaks that the water overflow wrecked 2 Thermostats and a Blower Motor.. I got the number from Shaver and If you send them a note or call them, You should have the information back by July. It is a common stock Item at Grainger. Cross your fingers that someone on here has the part number so you wont have to wait until July to get it from Shaver.
Windwalker7
ArboristSite Guru
projectsho89
ArboristSite Operative
1TDN7 is the Grainger part number for the blower you listed....
Windwalker7
ArboristSite Guru
Here is the Grainger if you want to pay more
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-PSC-Blower-1TDN7
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-PSC-Blower-1TDN7
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