projectsho89
ArboristSite Operative
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Shaver Improvement Forum
- Thread starter ngzcaz
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jmruggiero
ArboristSite Lurker
thanks, this is for spare parts to have on hand when it quits working sometime about 3:30am about 10deg and on a sunday when everyone is closed.
thanks ,jim
ngzcaz
ArboristSite Operative
Not to jinx anyone, but I don't recall anyone complaining about the Armstrong 30 that I have in my 165 ?
:monkey:
:monkey:
John D
Addicted to ArboristSite
Anyone else notice that using a fully closing damper in the cold months increases wood and electric usage? I have the stock blower with the solenoid,and damper door mod...I think this works great in the warmer months with just heating DHW or when heating demands are light.However when the winter temps have the OWB working full time,and cycling often,I notice a real difference in wood consumption and cycling...
The boiler is set on 179 on-183 off....Its never got over 185 since leaving the lower ash door about a full turn from tight....also instead of cycling 3 timed an hr,it maybe cycles once or twice,and smoking is reduced when it turns on.I thing totally putting the fire out is no good in the colder months...think about it,whats more eifficient than a slow burning fire? If you give i a little air it will make some heat,enough to keep the fire hot,if you slam it shujt it smothers it,then wide open just wasted wood by throwing the heat out the chimney..a nice slow burn gets the most out of the wood...in the warmer months I could see the OWB overheating....but for now,Im leaving the lower door cracked,and saving a few logs a day...and some electric duw to unneeded cycling...
The boiler is set on 179 on-183 off....Its never got over 185 since leaving the lower ash door about a full turn from tight....also instead of cycling 3 timed an hr,it maybe cycles once or twice,and smoking is reduced when it turns on.I thing totally putting the fire out is no good in the colder months...think about it,whats more eifficient than a slow burning fire? If you give i a little air it will make some heat,enough to keep the fire hot,if you slam it shujt it smothers it,then wide open just wasted wood by throwing the heat out the chimney..a nice slow burn gets the most out of the wood...in the warmer months I could see the OWB overheating....but for now,Im leaving the lower door cracked,and saving a few logs a day...and some electric duw to unneeded cycling...
I was thinking of switching from the dryer flap draft to the full shut off that you describe. I am now re-thinking that. As it is with the dryer flap mod, You do get a small amount of air flow probably like leaving the ash door 1 turn loose. This inexpensive mod has made a world of difference in the operation of my 250. With the ranco and some extra insulation, I have no complaints. I really can not say if wood consumption is better after the mods because I started the season with my new shop in floor heat added to the mix. All in all I am happy with the 250 heating 4500sq ft with a lot of it 20' cielings. I get 12hr burns even in Minnesota.. ( I do throw in a few extra pieces when I am near the stove at mid day sometimes)
I appreciate all of the mod info from everyone on here.
I appreciate all of the mod info from everyone on here.
urhstry
ArboristSite Operative
So would it benefit to drill some small holes in the flapper so that when it IS shut, it will still let some air in to create that small burn? Or am I missing the point? I still have not done this mod yet but I want to.
ngzcaz
ArboristSite Operative
Well.. there's no way I would trade my damper set up for the old style, but it does seem like that's the way the original set up was supposed to work.. While the unit does lose a bit of heat in the idling mode, the most heat loss occurs when the unit is on full blast and the heat is flying out the chimney. Seems that's where the most gain is possible. For now proper placement of the wood, not overloading it ( at least for me ) an occasional chimney cleaning and keeping the fire towards the front are no cost things that are yielding the best results. There's no question I was choking mine the first 2 years. The butterfly damper mod fixed that nicely.
I saw a NC ad for their gassification unit. While efficient, I see a lot of potential problems down the road and well as really expensive replacement parts when needed. A load of junk wood like I use occasionally would mess those cats up in a hurry. As a sidenote they showed their fire burning while emmiting little smoke but they forgot to open their bypass damper to the chimney and it looked like any other OWB smoking out the front. It would have been more interesting to have seen it when a fresh load of wood was thrown in. Mine doesn't smoke either when its a nice red hot coal bed.
I saw a NC ad for their gassification unit. While efficient, I see a lot of potential problems down the road and well as really expensive replacement parts when needed. A load of junk wood like I use occasionally would mess those cats up in a hurry. As a sidenote they showed their fire burning while emmiting little smoke but they forgot to open their bypass damper to the chimney and it looked like any other OWB smoking out the front. It would have been more interesting to have seen it when a fresh load of wood was thrown in. Mine doesn't smoke either when its a nice red hot coal bed.
scag52
ArboristSite Operative
I have had the best results with closing off all the air i can and cycling more often (2*diff.) Lowering the boiler temp as low as it can go . (on 146 -off 148) .I know it cycles more but temp stays very close to set point. I see less smoke due to active fire and less creosote build up. I would never go back to the slide damper . I'm going 24 hours burning pine. Last year i had lots of air leaks ,doors ,blower and and damper door. Everytime i would open up the door i would see the coals glowing and sometimes some flame, wasting wood.
scag52
ArboristSite Operative
I would recommend not drilling any holes. Do the solenoid mod as soon as you can . The Ranco thermostat too.
jmruggiero
ArboristSite Lurker
even with the flap shut tightely closed you are still sucking air in through the motor end, so you'll always have some air getting to the fire.
has anyone had a fire go completely out do to the lack of air, just wondering.
has anyone had a fire go completely out do to the lack of air, just wondering.
scag52
ArboristSite Operative
Only in the summer . Sits for a day or better without firing. Sometimes it would be out. Thats burning pine . I just keep a auto lighting propane torch nearby to give it 30 seconds of flame and shut the door.
My blower has the vents around the motor. i wasn't sure if air can make its way through there or not . I covered them with electrical tape anyway.
My blower has the vents around the motor. i wasn't sure if air can make its way through there or not . I covered them with electrical tape anyway.
John D
Addicted to ArboristSite
I am only running a 3 degree differential... im my case there is no doubt that letting a little air in saves wood, reduces smoke, and cuts my blower cycling in half at the minimum.im just putting it out there so others can try to save wood and electricity. I sealed my boiler up good.. there were huge air gaps between the blower and the mount. I ground down the globs of weld and put a bead of silicone sealer. I. Fixed the door leaks and the ash door leaks as well. My fire has gone out in the warmer months a few times, but that is normal. I only burn hardwoods all year long. I wish there was some pine around here I would throw a stick in with every load I love the smell of it.
scag52
ArboristSite Operative
Without a doubt everyone has to try things for themselves and see what works.I'm running 2* diff. and shutting off all the air has been the best for me. I"m going to try to longer diff and see what that does now that its getting colder.
Holdstihl
ArboristSite Lurker
I don't understand how leaving a door cracked and allowing forced air to bypass the fire is an improvement. More air = hotter fire. Hotter fire = faster heat transfer.
J.Gordon
ArboristSite Operative
I would take the tape off the motor. Those vents on the motor are for cooling and when covered, motor life would be shortened.
scag52
ArboristSite Operative
You know I thought the same thing.I just had to seal up the air leaks so I went ahead a covered them too. The very end of the motor has some. I left them open. I'll take the tape off. Not sure any air can get by anyway. My spare blower doesn't have them.
J.Gordon
ArboristSite Operative
Some motors are sealed for certain applications. explosive, moisture, dusty etc.
But they have been designed to operate that way.
That little motor may last a long time with the tape on it though.
If I needed to seal the motor off, I would want a spare just in case it dies.
Seems they always die on the coldest day of the year.
The good thing about those little motors is they are inexpensive.
But they have been designed to operate that way.
That little motor may last a long time with the tape on it though.
If I needed to seal the motor off, I would want a spare just in case it dies.
Seems they always die on the coldest day of the year.
The good thing about those little motors is they are inexpensive.
I had a problem with the Ranco on my Shaver 165 this morning. Woke up to cool house and less than hot water in the shower. Checked pumps, blower, etc, and figured out that the Ranco was showing water temp. in the furnace was 178 when it was actually just lukewarm. When I set the temp up to 200 it kicked the blower on. So I'm not getting an accurate temp reading to the Ranco. Anyone ever have a similar problem? Any ideas for a solution? Thanks.
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