Hahaha thanks for the giggle Harley
Stihl 07 (1961-1965) Rebuild Process.
- Thread starter Vintage Engine Repairs
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Ok, I have taken the oil pump mechanism apart, it’s so beautifully simple and elegant, though not as simple as a worm gear driven pump I suppose.
I intended to evaporust the lot, but in reality only a few washers had rust on and the bolts had what I presume to be galvanic corrosion so instead I used a dremel and wire wheel on the lot. The housing will get cleaned with carb cleaner to remove the stubborn oil deposits and I’ll use some scotch brite On everything else before reassembly.
unlike the electronics from the previous post, this wasn’t necessary, but I like the idea that it’s clean, free of rust and who ever owns it in the future after me can be proud of it and the job done. There is nothing more disappointing than a careless, half arsed job. I’m far from good at any of this, but my intentions and effort are there
come to think of it, I always got the effort reward, never the achievement one though! 
I intended to evaporust the lot, but in reality only a few washers had rust on and the bolts had what I presume to be galvanic corrosion so instead I used a dremel and wire wheel on the lot. The housing will get cleaned with carb cleaner to remove the stubborn oil deposits and I’ll use some scotch brite On everything else before reassembly.
unlike the electronics from the previous post, this wasn’t necessary, but I like the idea that it’s clean, free of rust and who ever owns it in the future after me can be proud of it and the job done. There is nothing more disappointing than a careless, half arsed job. I’m far from good at any of this, but my intentions and effort are there
come to think of it, I always got the effort reward, never the achievement one though!
Ok, that’s all back together, now to make the oil pump housing gaskit.
It’s .72mm thick, I have .8mm so calling it good in this location.
It wasn’t too tricky of a shape, but I don’t have a punch set, instead I used a 5mm drill to make the holes. Using a drill of course left a raised edge on each side around the hole. To remove it I popped the bolt through one side and cut away the material before taking it out and pushing it in the other side and again cutting the excess against the bolt. Did this for all 4 and I now have a flat gaskit.
It’s .72mm thick, I have .8mm so calling it good in this location.
It wasn’t too tricky of a shape, but I don’t have a punch set, instead I used a 5mm drill to make the holes. Using a drill of course left a raised edge on each side around the hole. To remove it I popped the bolt through one side and cut away the material before taking it out and pushing it in the other side and again cutting the excess against the bolt. Did this for all 4 and I now have a flat gaskit.
Today saw me stripping, cleaning and de rusting the starter and recoil mechanism.
Again it’s interesting to see how the mechanisms have changed.
long and short is everything got cleaned, some parts are in evaporust, any burrs were removed oh and the bar got a clean with scotchbrite, it’s an OEM stihl bar and chain. Will need dressing a little, but it’s in good shape!
Again it’s interesting to see how the mechanisms have changed.
long and short is everything got cleaned, some parts are in evaporust, any burrs were removed oh and the bar got a clean with scotchbrite, it’s an OEM stihl bar and chain. Will need dressing a little, but it’s in good shape!
Today I carefully dressed the bar, checked the depth in the groove was still good and removed the burrs. I just need to now go over with a bar dressing tool to smoothen the surface left by the fairly coarse wheel.
I found the lowest groove area in the bar to err on the side of caution and I have about 1mm clearance. The saw will be a shelf queen, so I’m happy with that, especially as this is a stihl bar, not sure if it’s the original though...
Then I put the above starter recoil and assembly together. I thought I’d document today’s post using video, change you the monotony of photos and because I can!
I found the lowest groove area in the bar to err on the side of caution and I have about 1mm clearance. The saw will be a shelf queen, so I’m happy with that, especially as this is a stihl bar, not sure if it’s the original though...
Then I put the above starter recoil and assembly together. I thought I’d document today’s post using video, change you the monotony of photos and because I can!
Was about to stop filming when the puller didn’t work, until I thought to give it a quick tap. How wonderfully satisfying to be able to make something myself.
Ok fully dissembled now. Few things I noted, the crank lobe area was too tight to get snap gauges in to measure distance before splitting case. Gaskit seems different thicknesses in different areas, although it’s all one, is this just where it’s crushed more in areas? Span was .3mm to .45mm so I guess .5 mm gaskit material is the way forward, though it’s insanely complicated to try and cut out, we’ll see!
also, when the case pins and bolts came out, the right half of the case was loose and I could pull it off by hand?! Very strange! Also it had a washer on the inside of case half between inner bearing race and I can only presume it presses up against where that bearing contacts the crank lobe mating surface? Anyone know anything about this?! Piston is in great condition as are the rings, looks all stihl OEM, and likely original because the cylinder gaskit had metal inside it and I don’t think you get that now days.
lastly, I have no torque specs, it is just a case of “arghh” tight, as oppose to “hmmm” tight and ARGHHHGRRRR” tight?
also, when the case pins and bolts came out, the right half of the case was loose and I could pull it off by hand?! Very strange! Also it had a washer on the inside of case half between inner bearing race and I can only presume it presses up against where that bearing contacts the crank lobe mating surface? Anyone know anything about this?! Piston is in great condition as are the rings, looks all stihl OEM, and likely original because the cylinder gaskit had metal inside it and I don’t think you get that now days.
lastly, I have no torque specs, it is just a case of “arghh” tight, as oppose to “hmmm” tight and ARGHHHGRRRR” tight?
Ok, seals are out, PTO side was a PITA, flywheel was a breeze mostly, will get them replaced very shortly.
Piston is cleaned, that’s all fine. Now cleaning hardware. Will track down gaskit material at .5mm think and attempt to make my own. Have a set of punches now which will make life easier.
Cleaning the crank with scotchBrite and the hardware tonight too.
Piston is cleaned, that’s all fine. Now cleaning hardware. Will track down gaskit material at .5mm think and attempt to make my own. Have a set of punches now which will make life easier.
Cleaning the crank with scotchBrite and the hardware tonight too.
Changed my mind, I’m not done for the day yet. I want to, as accurately as possible, measure the distance between inner races. So what I’ve done is measured both pieces of float glass, both 5.85mm thick precisely all around. I’m using these as a reference surface to measure the bearing inner race. Then I’ll minus the thickness of the glass to give me the exact measurement of the crank lobe to the case mating surface.
This saw had a .2mm shim on the clutch side of the crank, but not on the fly wheel side. This just doesn’t seem right.
so going to consider removing the shim, finding the distance between both inner races, adding the thickness of the gaskit, splitting that number by 2 and then measuring the distance between crank lobes and that difference between the two will be made up with feeler gauges when I pull the crank back through. If anyone has taken one of these apart and knows why there would be a .2mm shim one side then let me know.
This saw had a .2mm shim on the clutch side of the crank, but not on the fly wheel side. This just doesn’t seem right.
so going to consider removing the shim, finding the distance between both inner races, adding the thickness of the gaskit, splitting that number by 2 and then measuring the distance between crank lobes and that difference between the two will be made up with feeler gauges when I pull the crank back through. If anyone has taken one of these apart and knows why there would be a .2mm shim one side then let me know.
See if this helps at all. It does mention bearing shims. You said one crankcase half just came apart by hand? The bearing slid off the crank or out of the case? I wouldn't worry a great about perfectly centering the crank in the case. More important that it doesn't move other than by design. By that I mean some old saws have one bearing secured with screws and the other end floats in a needle or roller bearing. Stihl 090s and 070s use large roller bearings and shims to control endplay. Remingtons use needle bearings and shims as do some Poulans. There isn't only one correct way to do it.
I think you are finding out most users on his site run away from saws like these (old and not flashy) as fast and far as possible.
I think you are finding out most users on his site run away from saws like these (old and not flashy) as fast and far as possible.
Thanks for that manual, I’ll have a read
The crank just slid out of inner race on side (bearing is secure in case half) and required a little force from a press to get the flywheel side off the crank
ok great stuff, I was advised the same by @trains too about not worrying about a perfectly centred crank in this case and that to put it back together how it came apart.
Haha regarding most people staying away from these saws, I did get the feeling this thread didn’t interest very many and I nearly stopped posting on it for that reason, but I figured I may as well see it through.
as for old saws, I find them so charming! I may even get the opportunity to own an 076 Super, but not counting my chickens yet!!
Damn varnished fuel is a PITA to get out, it’s like concrete. Soaked in carb cleaner tried brushes but couldn’t get into the small areas, so used a wire brush on the dremel for the real bad areas. Then cleaned up the case halves and got the exhaust back from welders, flattened the warp and when the gasket arrives I’ll re-drill the holes.
Oil seals are in their way, as are gaskits, lines etc.
girlfriend leaves her nail varnish on the side, when watcgung tv couldn’t resist painting a nail, hence the green baby finger, stihl shop chaps raised a brow too.
Oil seals are in their way, as are gaskits, lines etc.
girlfriend leaves her nail varnish on the side, when watcgung tv couldn’t resist painting a nail, hence the green baby finger, stihl shop chaps raised a brow too.
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
I admire your tenacity for trying to bring that old saw back to life . I gave up on those vintage saws a long time ago .
Thank you! I have enjoyed (mostly) the challenge of bringing this saw back, especially as it’s NLA because I feel like I own a piece of the past. It’s not as if I can just pop to the shop and pick up another, and that to me is quite special.
I’d also like to try and rebuild an old 4 stroke engine from the 1940 or something too, but I know my knowledge isn’t there yet, some day
One bearing out, one to go
Other bearing done I took a time lapse to spice things up a little
I took a time lapse to spice things up a little 
Other bearing done
Toss the case in a toaster oven, heat it up to 400F and the bearing will likely fall out on its own, usually a hard slap down on a hard wood surface will dislodge them. Be sure to wear welding gloves or the like when handling the case.
Out with the old in with the new.
I also marked and drilled the new mounting holes in the exhaust.
Fitted to cylinder, but bolts weren’t long enough, they were also loose as a goose. Took them out, got 2 new bolts, removed the philips head and cut to length, red loctite them in and that’s all done now.
The cylinder needs a clean next along with the exhaust too.
Then I think that’s everything, I just need to wait in the gaskets from the USA.
I also marked and drilled the new mounting holes in the exhaust.
Fitted to cylinder, but bolts weren’t long enough, they were also loose as a goose. Took them out, got 2 new bolts, removed the philips head and cut to length, red loctite them in and that’s all done now.
The cylinder needs a clean next along with the exhaust too.
Then I think that’s everything, I just need to wait in the gaskets from the USA.
Jug maintenance today, cleaned the exhaust port of carbon and removed a very stuck on intake gasket. The Intake port was so uneven it’s a wonder how it was air tight, even with a 0.8mm gasket.
Anyway here are some images before, during and after flattening.
the inside and outside edge was gently chamfered to remove any possible burr
Then I checked for square using a piece of float glass and a 0.03mm or 0.001” for my US friends feeler gauge which I couldn’t get in anywhere.
Anyway here are some images before, during and after flattening.
the inside and outside edge was gently chamfered to remove any possible burr
Then I checked for square using a piece of float glass and a 0.03mm or 0.001” for my US friends feeler gauge which I couldn’t get in anywhere.
Looks good. Yes, I've seen some that bad. What are your plans for cleaning the cyl.? I usually bead blast the exterior and follow with a fine brass brush to bring back a little shine.
