Stihl 260 vs new 280? Please help me decide.

[rustyb]

I thought I'd start a new thread now that I've got a handle on the "pro" vs non-pro saws. Ok, so I'm still just a little confused,...especailly with all the model numbers, names & what not. Seems as though it would benifit everyone if Stihl would simplify thier line by making thier many different saws more distinguished.

Anyhow, I believe I've got my choice's narrowed down to the 260 & new 280. From what I've gathered so far from everyone's responses (thanks to all), the 260 is probably going to last longer than the 280 (please correct me if I'm wrong). But, for my needs of cutting only a maximum of 3.5 cords of wood per year, do I really need the 260? For what it's worth, I'd be happy to get 12 good years out of my saw which is 42 cords of wood (got 13 yrs out of my Echo 4600 & it's still running good).

Another thing I'm still not clear on is the difference in running performance, if there is any, between the 260 & 280. Does the 260 perform better (like a more finely tuned machine that runs crisper) or is it just going to last longer under continuous use? Also, I'm assuming the 280 to have more torque with its additional cubic inches & the 260 to make its power at higher RPM's. Is this correct?

To sum it up, I like nice things and don't mind spending the extra money on something better for ones needs but I'm questioning spending $40 more for the 260 which has less power…..especially if the 280 is likely to last me ~12 yrs for what I'll be using it for.

Although the 280 hasn't been out long enough to be proven, I'm leaning slightly towards it because of the price difference & better power to money ratio. I mean, how bad could it be or in other words, would Stihl put out some thing bad?? Have they ever put out a total dud....piece of junk?

With all that jibberish said, I'm still open to the idea of purchasing a 260. I just need convinced that it'll be the superior saw for my needs and is worth that extra 4o big ones.

Sorry for all the questions but Stihl sure doesn't make it easy for the consumer who doesn't stay on top of thier products. Any suggestions or wisdom would greatly be appreciated. For me, 260 or 280? Help me decide.

rusty

PS
My primary wood cutting consists of 6"-16" diamater trees which are mostly hardwoods. I'll also use this saw to blank out carvings.

 

[jokers]

Total POS Stihl

Well Rusty, since you asked, Stihl put out the 019T. 017, 021, and 023 aren`t much better in my opinion. Oh yeah and the 046s that snapped the flywheels off when the chain brake was applied. How about the 029s that were lunching their bottom ends and the 034s and 044 that were spinning the crank bearings in the cases, but to answer your question, no, Stihl has never put a total POS on the market. Right now I`m sure hoping that they got the flywheel thing fixed on the 460 because I`ve got a brand spankin` new one in the truck.

Have you considered the ms270? I wouldn`t buy one for my own needs because I consider the Husky saws in this category to be better quality and value, but since you are leaning toward the 280 take a look at the 270 also. It has a worse power to weight ratio than the 280 because they weigh the same, but it also costs quite a few bucks less and this seems to be important to you which isn`t a bad thing considering your expected usage. The p:w ratio may also be a valid factor in the longevity of these models as it appeared to be in the 025 vs 029. A Poulan Wildthing would easily last you 12 years if you are up on taking care of it and the chain but the Stihl will be a much nicer operating experience. The powerband of the 270 is supposed to be a little more on the top end like the 260, rather than slightly more grunt like the 280.

I won`t go so far as saying that the 270/280 aren`t excellent saws, yet, nobody has enough experience with them to know, but the 260(026) has proven itself many times over and has resale like a Harley. I am skeptical of a few design features on the 270/280 but if Stihl put their minds to it they could do it right. Only time will tell.

Russ

 

[iceman_lumberja]

I have a new ms260 pro. I was a little worried that it would be underpowered especially with larger wood. I was wrong. Mine has an 18 inch bar and 3/8 chain and can go through trees 18-20'' easily. I have run a 290 farmboss and mine side by side . The 290 may have a little more torque but the saw is too heavy. I too was going to wait for the 280 but opted for the small 260 to start out with. I'm glad I bought the one I did. For the stuff you said you'd be cutting, the 260 would work great. If you really want a good all around saw, pop for the 360 pro.

 

[glens]

I generally agree with everything said so far, so in bringing up some other disjointed points it shouldn't be taken as my disagreement or worse.

First, the MS280 <i>has</i> <a href="http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS280.html">presence</a> on the web site, it just doesn't have internal links to it yet (similarly the old <a href="http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/034.html">034</a>).&nbsp; But except for the obsolete model, the web pages don't have anything to offer beyond the catalog(s) you've undoubtedly got.

My impressions on the differences are that the 280 is "roomier" (not as compact) than the 260.

The 260 has rim sprocket gear from the start, so that would save ten or fifteen bucks the first time you need to replace it.

The 280 just about has to be smoother in hand, and that's a benefit for sure.

The air filter is much easier to remove for cleaning on the newer model, and the newer model also has a full complement (albeit motion-limited) of fuel adjustments.&nbsp; The 260 is rumored to be going that way as well, but possibly (to probably) not by the time you make your purchase.&nbsp; The fixed jet arrangement <i>can</i> work mostly fine in most cases, but we all have to admit it's not as nice as screws.

So far I'm pretty much leaning toward the 280.&nbsp; It's got some design features that don't lead so well to modifications or repair, but if you believe how far the EPA thinks it's authority reaches, it's a legal offense to modify the engine or to modify or defeat any emissions-related hardware, even when only using it on your own property.&nbsp; I think we all agree in our thoughts about what they can do with their opinion, and I'd be inclined to think they only have authority over manufacturers and dealers (and on Federal land in general), but the fact of the matter is if they decide to be pricks, well, who among us can afford to prove we're right?

The forty bucks difference between the two saws is probably easier to justify than that between the 290 and 310, where the only real change involves a 1mm larger piston.

I think I'd go with the 280 if I were in your position.&nbsp; To me the balance swings slightly in it's favor at this time.

Glen

 

[Stihl088stock]

280

Anyone know where the 280 is being made?

 

[stihltech]

280

Assembly line in Virginia Beach, some parts from Germany.

 

[Bill G]

Rusty,

You ask why Stihl does not make it clear which are "consumer" and which are "pro" ? To be honest I think they make it very clear compared to other companies. The even saws like the 260, 360,440,460,660, and 088 are all "pro models. The odd saws 290, 310,390, etc are consumer saws. The exception is the MS180. I know you may say "wait they are all even numbers". The even and odd refers to the old system of 3 digit numbers such as 026 (pro) and 029 (consumer). There are some exceptions in the past I believe the 041 and 051 were good durable saws. On the even side I beleive the 048 was a short lived saw. As for whether the 280 is pro or consumer only time will tell. When I saw them last fall the factory rep did not know how they would market it. So to sum it up odd=good and even= better.

Just my random observations,

Bill

 

[ClearH20Scott]

Buy a 488 Shindaiwa, or better yet, a MS440, not much more on
weight, and will get your work done faster. Money well spent.

 

[Fish]

There is no consensus of what a Stihl "Pro" or "consumer" saw
is, but the ones usually classed as consumer have similar
construction. If the 280 has similar construction as the 021/023
025/029/310/039, what makes anyone consider the 280 a pro
model?
Why would anyone spend $40 less, just to see if the
280 is a piece of junk or not? There is a consensus about the
260 being a good saw. If the 280 is made like the 029,
I consider it junk!!!


Ooops, sorry, a "consumer" model.

 

[Jacob J.]

<p>Howdy<p/>
<p>The 280 has a construction similar to a 260, with a metal crankcase, but has a cylinder shape like the 290. I was mistakenly under the impression that the 280 also had the plastic crankcase, but after viewing the parts breakdown it appears to be a hybrid construction. It goes together like a 290, the crankcase is one piece, made of magnesium, and the cylinder has crank supports molded in like on a 290 cylinder. The bearings are sandwiched in between the crankcase and the cylinder. It appears to be a sturdier design than the 021-039 or 250-390 series.<p/>

 

[stihltech]

270/280

Jacob, that is the best explanation I have seen so far.
The real difference is in the bearings. The best bearings are in the pro line, ONE step down on the consumer. BUT, I have had no bearing failures on the consumer line. It is designed to last less hours, but I do not see where anyone is selling it as anything else. Works well for a consumer for less money. And that is the number one reason most people buy them.
Oh, and the crankcase is not plastic. Plastic never touches the bearing.

 

[Fish]

So it is a power unit bolted onto a plastic body, just like the
029?

 

[Fish]

Or a cylinder bolted onto a metal crankcase like the 026?
Let's not get it too muddied up in terminology. I am just
curious, as I have not seen one yet.

 

[Stumper]

You've hooked a Fish, now reel him in.

 

[glens]

That's strange, Fish.&nbsp; I'd have thought you would know this by now - it's been beat to hell here a couple times already.

It's a horizontally split, all metal engine/crankcase, and the lower crankcase itself is the chassis (similar to the "pro" saws), with plastic accoutrements.

Glen

 

[sritzau]

I have an 026 (non-pro) with a fixed high-speed jet. I have not tried the 280. I have had no problems with my carb or with my saw, but I run at sea-level and don't have to change altitude. I cut about 10 cords of 12-18" dia. hardwood a year. Here's my $0.02 on your situation...

Reliability : My wager is that either saw will easily last 12 years or more if you keep up with it. I don't like buying the first year of anything but, if you have a good dealer, you'll probably be fine. People already have experience with the 026, and that "proven aspect" has a lot of value for me.
Weight: I am pretty skinny and really like the power to weight ratio of the 026. The 1lb difference is significant for me. For most "real arborists" it would probably not. It becomes a lot more significant if you're going to cut most of your 3.5 cords of wood at one time or if - like me - you're not classic lumberjack material. I only appreciate the weight of the 026 on the second or third tank.
Power: The 026 has a pretty forgiving power band. The 028 is probably even more so. Since you're buying a new saw for more power, the edge would go to the 280.
Vibration : At 3.5 cords/year, I am guessing that this won't reallly matter unless you have a some kind of injury that is aggravated by vibration. I have an 026 and have not had any problems with vibration. All accounts say the 028 should be better than 026, so i would say this is a non-issue.
Cost: $40 difference is significant. This comes down to how dear are your $. For me, I highly value "proven" and I'd be willing to pay the $40. Realistically, though, I am betting you'd would be fine with either the 026 or the 280.

Bottom Line: If you're skinny and paranoid like me, get the 026. Rather have the cash? 280. Make the final decision right at the dealer after handling the saws for a while.

good luck, Steve

 

[Fish]

Yeah, reel me in ,Chumps!!!

You all still think the bottom cap of an 029 is plastic, but it is not.
The new style, junk, line, has a power unit bolted onto a plastic
body,[oil, gas tank, etc,}, and I am just asking if the 280 is
of the same design, that is all.
If any af you actually ever worked on a saw, you might have a clue. I read these great sermons about this and that, but I
know dog poop when I step in it, and my shoes are quite smelly.
I have not even seen a 270/280, can anyone that has any knowledge enlighten me as how it is constructed?
I fear that the 280 is consumer junk repackaged to fool the
chumps, but feel free to reel me in.

 

[Fish]

Is the 270/280 a power unit bolted onto a plastic body like the
021/023/023/029/039/017/ms310/etc. or not?
Reel me in, or at least set the hook!

 

[glens]

The impression I get is that many people think the Stihl "consumer" crankcase is plastic just like the fine folks at Deere would have you believe <a href="http://www.chainsaws4u.com/husqvarnachainsaws.htm#chain saw crankcases">here</a>.&nbsp; We both know, Fish, that the crankcase (as part of the complete engine unit) mounts into that chassis on those saws.

The MS270/280 fall somewhere between the two configurations portrayed there, but it's much closer to the more conventional one on the left.

The magneto casing is all plastic and bolts to the side of the one piece (not split vertically) metal chassis.&nbsp; You can see a couple of different views (all a bit dark on my display here) in the shockwave/flash <a href="http://www.stihl.ca/270-280.swf">presentation</a> at <a href="http://www.stihl.ca/saws_270-280.asp">http://www.stihl.ca/saws_270-280.asp</a>.&nbsp; The complete magneto side (as well the removable oil tank filler cover) is removed for the view in the "Magnesium crankcase" tab, but is in place in the bottom view of the complete saw in the "Anti-vibration system" tab.

Where's my landing net...

Please don't take the fact that I don't do it as a profession to mean that I don't work on chainsaws.

Glen

 

[Jacob J.]

<p>Fish-<p/>
<p>According to the parts break down the 280 has a cylinder bolted to a metal crankcase more like the 260. However, there are no crankcase halves, just one single metal bottom end housing much like the 090 ( bear with me here, I know the 280 doesn't compare to the 090 ). However, the cylinder shape is much like that of a 290, except the one piece metal bottom end bolts to the bottom of the cylinder much like the "engine pan" in a 290. In any of my prior posts I never meant to imply that the consumer line of saws had an actual plastic set of crankcase halves, but were like you said, a power unit bolted to a plastic housing. On the 280, the bearing seats are molded into the bottom of the cylinder and the metal bottom end, so the bearings are supported by the top and bottom ends being bolted together.<p/>
<p/>So basically this is a hybrid design which falls directly in the middle of a "Pro" saw with two metal crankcase halves and the former "Consumer" saw line which has a power unit bolted to a plastic bottom housing.<p/>
<p>In one of my previous posts, I mentioned the 026 having a plastic oiler for a while. The reason we had problems with them here is the farmers here use used drain oil for bar oil instead of actual bar oil, and the plastic oilers wouldn't handle the fine metal shavings in the drain oil. Also, the drain oil seemed to age the plastic housing faster and make it brittle.<p/>