Sure is quiet in here....do I need to start a fight?

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So anyway I got the old motor removed....brought the boat home from the shop and pressure washed the bilge and purple powered it heavily and pressure washed again....took it back to the shop and let it dry out all last week. Spent the week pondering the next move.. This past weekend I mocked up my existing engine beds exactly in 4 X 10 pine mounted on a piece of 3/4 plywood , up on hosses. kept lowering the motor down onto the mockup checking and then raising the motor and removing some wood....letting it down checking again....can't have things like fuel lines, fuel coolers, cooling pipes etc. rubbing on anything.....but at the same time can't remove to much of the engine beds or you will have nothing to bolt the front motor mounts to....no room to see aboard the boat so this was the best way to be sure things were correct. Sat afternoon I was satisfied that there was adequate clearances ... Sunday I made 1/4" plywood templates of the changes and transferred the marks onto the existing engine beds and with much sabre sawing and sawzalling carved away the offending parts of the engine beds. Mostly on the starboard side making room for access to the raw water pump drains which at the same time gave extra room for changing out the water separating fuel filter.....also relieved the inside of the engine bed to give room for the high pressure fuel injection hoses to and from the fuel cooler. Then yesterday afternoon I gently set the engine on her beds.....won't fully know if I have more to take out until the line up tool arrives,, I align the engine.......Then I'll do what it needs and apply 4-5 layers of mat and roving set in epoxy resin... But just getting the engine in place is good.....after that I have to buy and install a thru hull, seacock piping and a sea strainer.....looks like another $7-$800 worth of stuff...

First some pics of the new motor on the stand it came in.....the old one will take it's place in the box and go away.....or I pay a $300 core charge.....NOT.....

Nice tight package, love the serpentine belt.
 
Didn't know it might storm here, till after I went out and sprayed more weeds ! Started storming before I got done ! Now I will have to start all over again !

why you spray weed's ??

dont you have a stihl ??
 
What are the thru hull openings and strainer for?

Live well?

I didnt sea a radiator with that engine so i would say it is seawater cooled..

the sillcock is where it get's it's water from,,.

the filter stops sucking up lobster and clams..

If he got the upgraded version the filter comes with a seperator..

clams,in one bin,lobstahs in another,..etc.

cheap SOB probly wont go for the $100 option !!! :)
 
What are the thru hull openings and strainer for?

Live well?

Nope.....raw water for the heat exchanger...drive pump doesn't supply enough water for the the exchanger..it's only 3/4" which is fine if the ocean is your radiator and you are pumping the coolant (ocean) righ back overboard.....but a closed system with antifreeze requires 1 1/4" so you need a separate belt driven pump.....as you are also cooling both exhaust manifolds and risers with antifreeze...and a seacock so you can shut off the hole in your hull if something bad occurs .....the sea strainer is to keep seaweed and other floating crap out of the narrow passages of the heat exchanger. The thru hull, seacock and sea strainer will be 1 1/2" then 1 1/4" from the strainer to the raw water pump to assure enough water flow and strainer capacity ......rule of thumb is to go up one size in these items..
 
So anyway I got the old motor removed....brought the boat home from the shop and pressure washed the bilge and purple powered it heavily and pressure washed again....took it back to the shop and let it dry out all last week. Spent the week pondering the next move.. This past weekend I mocked up my existing engine beds exactly in 4 X 10 pine mounted on a piece of 3/4 plywood , up on hosses. kept lowering the motor down onto the mockup checking and then raising the motor and removing some wood....letting it down checking again....can't have things like fuel lines, fuel coolers, cooling pipes etc. rubbing on anything.....but at the same time can't remove to much of the engine beds or you will have nothing to bolt the front motor mounts to....no room to see aboard the boat so this was the best way to be sure things were correct. Sat afternoon I was satisfied that there was adequate clearances ... Sunday I made 1/4" plywood templates of the changes and transferred the marks onto the existing engine beds and with much sabre sawing and sawzalling carved away the offending parts of the engine beds. Mostly on the starboard side making room for access to the raw water pump drains which at the same time gave extra room for changing out the water separating fuel filter.....also relieved the inside of the engine bed to give room for the high pressure fuel injection hoses to and from the fuel cooler. Then yesterday afternoon I gently set the engine on her beds.....won't fully know if I have more to take out until the line up tool arrives,, I align the engine.......Then I'll do what it needs and apply 4-5 layers of mat and roving set in epoxy resin... But just getting the engine in place is good.....after that I have to buy and install a thru hull, seacock piping and a sea strainer.....looks like another $7-$800 worth of stuff...

First some pics of the new motor on the stand it came in.....the old one will take it's place in the box and go away.....or I pay a $300 core charge.....NOT.....



OOHHHH,,,,,,OOhhhhhh,,,,,,,AAAHHHHHHH,,,,,,,,,,,,aaahhhhh,,,,ohohohohohooooo,,,...
somebody hand me a towel ???
Ah aint never had a brandy new somethin like that !!
should be on the page of a calender !! :)

makes my old ' IRON DUKE " engine seem so,,,so,,," vintage " ,,, OLD !! :(
 
Little question here. What is the best way to deal with magnesium Corosion. There was none on the mac, but once I cleaned all the junk off, the bare parts started to get a white haze. It took most of the day, but there is some small patches of minor Corosion on the bare mag. Should I just bead blast, than prime? Or do I need to do something extra to prevent it from coming back?
 
My day was a little boring , fixed 2 whackers and sprayed weeds so I can spray them again. LOL That was my day. SLUG DAY ! LOL

Good for you, except having to spray again because of the rain. Sometimes you have to take it easy.
 
Little question here. What is the best way to deal with magnesium Corosion. There was none on the mac, but once I cleaned all the junk off, the bare parts started to get a white haze. It took most of the day, but there is some small patches of minor Corosion on the bare mag. Should I just bead blast, than prime? Or do I need to do something extra to prevent it from coming back?

Have to wait on one of the smarter guys on that one ?
 
Looked at a splitter tonight and it was worse than I thought. Looks like to much of a project for me. Just want something that works good and I don't have to start off fixing it. New not in the budget for now so looking at another one tomorrow night. Looks more promising.
 
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