Sure is quiet in here....do I need to start a fight?

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Quick question for anyone who has tried it. Can oven cleaner damage the die cast magnesium from old macs and pioneers? I hear it really messes up aluminum? Also, can it remove paint? (that would be a good thing in this case, I am borrowing a bead blast cabinet to strip it down)

PixxOff wont bother paint or mag.
will eat alumnium.
 
PixxOff wont bother paint or mag.
will eat alumnium.

Thanks, I will go pick some up. I think I will try generic first, even if it is a little slower, the cost will be worth it.
How does it compare to gunk engine bright on cleaning ability?
 
Thanks, I will go pick some up. I think I will try generic first, even if it is a little slower, the cost will be worth it.
How does it compare to gunk engine bright on cleaning ability?

The gunk will probly be better on oil and grease.
the Pizz Off be better on stuff that is STUCK on.

It's not that the generic works slower,,it just dont clean as well,dont eat at the crap as well,,no matter how long you let it set.
like John i use both,the cheap stuff for light cleaning and the name brand easy off heavy duty for the baked on,age old,use a chisel stuff to get off.
sometimes it's worth the $5 to save a lot of work and get a saw clean enuf to work on.
i posted a thread on it,,search my user name and easy off,,posted before and after pix.
 
Nice and cool in my basement ! LOL

Got off my flippy cap, fixed 2 weed whackers ! :msp_thumbsup:

May be it for the day ? LOL

Real hot and humid outside ! The grass can wait another day !

Just had a T-storm blow thru..
cooled it down quick !!
now sun out again :)
 
ok Geoff,,heres before and after pix.
starter covers from a pair of pulp saws,,both were as nasty as each other.
baked on sap/pitch,whatever,,,couldnt scrape off with a putty knife.



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LOL!! Perhaps......or it may have been to brittle and broke sooner!!!!!

You had some trials with Das Boot.

We get trials like that taking apart pumps at time. But we can use torches. Though they cause their own problems.

Heading to the surplus store soon. Drills??

And thanks for torture testing them. Lol

Like Smokey Yunick says. "Can't tell what it will take till you blow it up!"
 
The mac is completely torn down. I couldn't go any further without pressing the cylinder sleeve out. A few minor issues. First, the rear handle was cracked, and snapped during tear down. A major mac guy on here has offered to send me one if I cant find one. Second, it seems to have sucked some gravel in at some point. You can see corresponding dents from when the pieces were larger than the squish. (piston and head) The cylinder has some very minor scoring, but since it has a cast iron liner, it will hone out very easily. I am 99% sure all of that will be salvageable. Thanks, when I was pulling the piston, one of the bolts on the min bearing decided to strip out. :msp_mad: After using easy outs, and vice grips for an hour or so, I resorted to drilling through the side of the bolts, and getting it apart that way. Luckily the cap had a hole through the side that you could see the threads through. A few seconds of drilling and it was apart with no damage. I just need to get half the bolt out. I am thinking of drilling through it with the drill press, and using an easy out. I will also have to custom make all new gaskets, all but one of the old ones ripped. A few of them I can use permatex, but most will be solved with a gasket sheet and some leather working tools.
Overall, it was a pain in the azz, but still a very fun day.
My local stores didn't stock generic oven cleaner, I am thinking of buying a can of real easy off tomorrow to finish cleaning these parts. I used up all my engine bright, and grez-off, and still had a few pieces left.
 
So anyway I got the old motor removed....brought the boat home from the shop and pressure washed the bilge and purple powered it heavily and pressure washed again....took it back to the shop and let it dry out all last week. Spent the week pondering the next move.. This past weekend I mocked up my existing engine beds exactly in 4 X 10 pine mounted on a piece of 3/4 plywood , up on hosses. kept lowering the motor down onto the mockup checking and then raising the motor and removing some wood....letting it down checking again....can't have things like fuel lines, fuel coolers, cooling pipes etc. rubbing on anything.....but at the same time can't remove to much of the engine beds or you will have nothing to bolt the front motor mounts to....no room to see aboard the boat so this was the best way to be sure things were correct. Sat afternoon I was satisfied that there was adequate clearances ... Sunday I made 1/4" plywood templates of the changes and transferred the marks onto the existing engine beds and with much sabre sawing and sawzalling carved away the offending parts of the engine beds. Mostly on the starboard side making room for access to the raw water pump drains which at the same time gave extra room for changing out the water separating fuel filter.....also relieved the inside of the engine bed to give room for the high pressure fuel injection hoses to and from the fuel cooler. Then yesterday afternoon I gently set the engine on her beds.....won't fully know if I have more to take out until the line up tool arrives,, I align the engine.......Then I'll do what it needs and apply 4-5 layers of mat and roving set in epoxy resin... But just getting the engine in place is good.....after that I have to buy and install a thru hull, seacock piping and a sea strainer.....looks like another $7-$800 worth of stuff...

First some pics of the new motor on the stand it came in.....the old one will take it's place in the box and go away.....or I pay a $300 core charge.....NOT.....
 

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