the all aussie dribble thread!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
just got back from a few days kicking around in the bush up near Mallacoota,and spent a bit of time at an old mates camp,where he's slabbing up macrocarpa and himalayan cedar,using a home made chainsaw mill and a monster stihl 090.
He does all his sharpening using a Stihl FG2 bench mount filing guide.
I had a go on it and decided i had to get one, really good tool,but our stihl dealer cant find em on the system anymore.
Anyone got one they would be prepared to sell?
cheers,Skip
They're still available I'll have a look
 
Thanks Neil. As far as I and many people I know are concerned, the Mahoe sawmill beams are the current gold standard for single beam mills, and have been for quite a while. If it's possible to do so, any chance of a shot of the insides please? Am keen to learn what sort of truss, if any, is used.

Chippy, I don't think there is a specific standard for the beam, other than the various catch-alls like fit for purpose or merchantable quality, etc. It's one reason why it will be good to get a judicial interpretation, so every manufacturer and buyer knows where they stand. There's actually quite a few interesting aspects about this case, which will be useful for both consumers and manufacturers once the dust has settled, which won't be for some time, of that I'm quite sure.

that is possible mate, I need to unbolt the far end, as its a bit complex the sawyers end as it has chains, bearings and sprockets ect to unbolt to remove the end plate. I can tell you tho it is just the folded top 2 sides of 1 piece stainless steel that gives it the strength, with of coarse a thicker bottom flat piece in 3 sections riveted to the top by very large pop rivets.
My older mill (green one) has given trouble as the pop rivets have drawn at the sawyers end a few times, Mahoe admitted to me they made that beam a little light, my 2nd mill has a heavier beam exactly the same dimensions and has never given any trouble so far.
The green mill sometimes squashes down a little which pops the end rivets so I just put new ones in, the beam is still straight but will cause trouble until I re rivet it. (using a large trombone style riveter which cost me some money but pops massive rivets with ease). I exceped the problem as Mahoe told me why and rectified the problem with my 2nd new mill I bought, so yes they made a mistake but listened and resolved the problem on all future mills ending the original problem with beam flex.
I will get you some pics.
 
That typo will really drag down any remaining credibility I had left :( One day you might be strong enough to handle a 3120 Neil. Just grab the Triton's bullbar and power lift the front off the ground a few times. That will give you some idea of what lifting a 3120 feels like. Once you can do a rep of 100 lifts you're nearly ready.

Ha the blessid bull bar would fall off the thing, that's because of the quality of materials used.
I will have you know I have actually lifted 2 of them 3120's,,,, I did I say, oh have been known to play or should I say fumble about with one of those old thingys ,,,, yellow things , just can't remember their name now, doesn't matter they are old ....

Snapshot 2 (30-04-2013 9-52 PM).png Snapshot 1 (25-01-2012 8-25 PM).png
 
so yes they made a mistake but listened
Which is why they are one of the best NZ sawmill manufacturers, me thinks. The irony of course, is that I couldn't afford one at the time (and they really aren't as portable as I need) but am now spending about the same amount as one on lawyers, engineers and the like. Good times, good times.o_O
 
so fg2 @ $250 ish or a grinder @ $400?? which will help with the rd3 chains
either are still a way off though
my rd3 84 feels dead after cutting that 3yr down that i posted pics of before and it wasn't new sharp before
 
so fg2 @ $250 ish or a grinder @ $400?? which will help with the rd3 chains
either are still a way off though
my rd3 84 feels dead after cutting that 3yr down that i posted pics of before and it wasn't new sharp before

You can add at least $250-300 for a diamond wheel to your grinder price to sharpen the RD3.
 
Only my 84dl currently, but thinking of making a 91dl to fit either the 32 or 36

If you use a lot or blunten a lot of carbide then it doesn't take long to cover the cost of a grinder and diamond wheel. Our local dealer charges $40 a grind.
 
How many regrinds out of a chain should I expect

It depends on how hard they get used and how blunt they get prior to sharpening. With 36RD in dead Aussie hardwood you'll tend to find that it will begin shedding the carbide out of the chain chassis well before it's actually "worn out". I get around 10 grinds out of the average 36RD before it's ready for the bin.
 
It depends on how hard they get used and how blunt they get prior to sharpening. With 36RD in dead Aussie hardwood you'll tend to find that it will begin shedding the carbide out of the chain chassis well before it's actually "worn out". I get around 10 grinds out of the average 36RD before it's ready for the bin.
The one time I laid out some coin for one of them fancy chains I found that the chassis stretched and broke long before the cutters wore out, didn't last much longer than a normal chain
 
The one time I laid out some coin for one of them fancy chains I found that the chassis stretched and broke long before the cutters wore out, didn't last much longer than a normal chain

Yeah mate it depends on what you're cutting. I only use it in dirt filled crap that would kill a normal chain. I ran some .404" semi chisel on the 3120 on Saturday and it lasted about 6 cuts in a 30" log before it was toast. Carbide will cut about 3 tonne before it needs sharpening. Like you said though you normally use carbide in dirty crappy wood which then also wrecks the rivets etc. The newer RD3 is by all accounts a better design than the 36RD and less likely to shed the carbide when it's getting worked hard.
 
Yeah mate it depends on what you're cutting. I only use it in dirt filled crap that would kill a normal chain. I ran some .404" semi chisel on the 3120 on Saturday and it lasted about 6 cuts in a 30" log before it was toast. Carbide will cut about 3 tonne before it needs sharpening. Like you said though you normally use carbide in dirty crappy wood which then also wrecks the rivets etc. The newer RD3 is by all accounts a better design than the 36RD and less likely to shed the carbide when it's getting worked hard.

3 ton? I can get double that from a standard full comp no problem if I leave the stump cuts to last....and that's only a couple of hrs work on the saw too....tee tree down this way collects sand and dirt in the bottom few feet....but your regular gums Inc stringybarks I've never blunted a chain in clean wood in under 3 ton....I get about half a day out of a chain normally
 
3 ton? I can get double that from a standard full comp no problem if I leave the stump cuts to last....and that's only a couple of hrs work on the saw too....tee tree down this way collects sand and dirt in the bottom few feet....but your regular gums Inc stringybarks I've never blunted a chain in clean wood in under 3 ton....I get about half a day out of a chain normally

You haven't seen this stuff mate. Ask Benny what it's like. Nothing but termite dirt up the guts of every log - as in every log. Hopefully you don't start telling me to use square chisel like the American guys :)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top