the all aussie dribble thread!

[billyj]

people actually still sharpen handsaws.....i brought a spear and jackson when i first started out with the intention to sharpen it myself as required, needless to say i sharpened it once and now it sits in the bottom of my trailer so blunt it probly wont even cut butter. with how hard i am on hand saws its far easier to just grab a newie for $10 every month or so

 

[masculator]

people actually still sharpen handsaws.....i brought a spear and jackson when i first started out with the intention to sharpen it myself as required, needless to say i sharpened it once and now it sits in the bottom of my trailer so blunt it probly wont even cut butter. with how hard i am on hand saws its far easier to just grab a newie for $10 every month or so

A newie that will never cut as good or last as well as a good one sharpened properly! the throw away society has ruined quality tools! bring it to the GTG and I will teach you how to sharpen it!

 

[David (saltas)]

Stray currents Is something I have a bit of experience with.
Refining copper is done with lots off current and acid.
I have a power point presentation I wrote for the maintenance department I will email it if you PM your email address

I used a HEME (hall effect metering equipment) tong It will find ac and dc currents.

I would be interested if the diagnoses of stray current was because they measured it or they could not find any reason so they blamed stray currents

If they have put a new radiator in then you may not find the stray current as the top and bottom tanks are clean and well insulated.
I don't know the mounting arrangements but I assume it is pins inside rubber blocks and if they are clean and with fresh coolant then the core should be insulated and the therefore isolated from any currents.

 

[billyj]

ok ill throw it in for the gtg, would be good to know how to sharpen it properly, main reason for the throw awways is they just get trashed cutting out door ways etc in pre fab walls, and there always seems to be that hidden nail when doing renos

 

[tdi-rick]

Plastic tanks Saltas and yes, pins (plastic) in rubber insulators.

The diagnosis was based on the corrosion evident on the first half a dozen rows of tubes where they pierce the header plate.

I had a quick look tonight and that's what it looks like to my untrained eye too. The rad shop supplied an earth strap to fix between the core and chassis, should alleviate things somewhat (hopefully) or make the aluminium disappear faster

 

[koshari]

I don't know about filing saws but I would guess that I could learn it fast.

The first four months of 1985 all the apprentices were all locked up in the apprentice training center with a set of files, some bearing blue and two surface blocks, one steel and one granite.
Everything we made had to hand filed flat and square,beveled or radius-ed.
Bearing blue does not lie
My bench was #5 so I still have stuff with a #5 stamped into it.
Four months "not good enough", "not flat enough", "Its a bit low there and there", "too quick, I don't believe you must have cheated somehow do it again".

Now there is always someone better than me just not sure its you :msp_ohmy:

old SECV apprentice were we salty boy?

i remember making my set of G clamps out of a file and a hacksaw, best 3 weeks of my apprenticeship NOT!

 

[koshari]

No just honest! it is one thing I know I am good at! scored apprentice of the year each year of my apprenticeship for a reason!

i got down to the last 2 nominees for apprentice of the year of our intake,

pity the interview was on the same day as our footyclubs 1000 dollar draw

i wonder what terry axford is up to these days anyway?

 

[tdi-rick]

If you guys have a turbo with a boost compensator, you may be able to work out an 'economy' mode for driving.

I have a mechanical injection system on my truck and have modified the curve of the boost compensator to really put out some power. Unfortunately, having the smooth power come on so easily is addictive - and it will chew through some fuel.

So I put a 12v solenoid from Jaycar in line with the boost line to my boost compensator. I control the solenoid with a switch in the cab. I normally drive around in economy mode (99% if the time), but if I want to pass another vehicle, I can hit the 'afterburner switch' and be gone in a flash.

Other fellows with electronic boost compensators have done the same thing, you just need the solenoid to control the air pressure to the compensator.

The solenoid is only about $14 at Jaycar.

Really don't have a problem with fuel usage on the Landy, yet I've screwed the pump up for maximum (safe) grunt (can hit 750*C on a long climb if I don't back off)

 

[tdi-rick]

The poor Pootrol is back up and running with a new rad, fully flushed cooling system and a new dose of Cummins PG Ultimate coolant.

A new contra head grinder is winging it's way towards the humpy on the hill now too.

 

[AUSSIE1]

The poor Pootrol is back up and running with a new rad, fully flushed cooling system and a new dose of Cummins PG Ultimate coolant.

A new contra head grinder is winging it's way towards the humpy on the hill now too.

Good stuff mate, what's the meter reading?

Now you have to learn how to see around corners!

 

[tdi-rick]

can you believe I didn't check it ?

I'll give it a few days to settle (apparently fresh coolant can show voltage) and then check.

It was a race against time to get it all done and back together so SWMBO could get to work.

I got it done, road and leak tested with about ten minutes to spare.......



Look around corners eh ?
Grind then look, grind them....oh bugger.
I have little mirrors on a stick Al, been brazing around corners for years, not always successfully mind....

 

[Hulsty]

If you guys have a turbo with a boost compensator, you may be able to work out an 'economy' mode for driving.

I have a mechanical injection system on my truck and have modified the curve of the boost compensator to really put out some power. Unfortunately, having the smooth power come on so easily is addictive - and it will chew through some fuel.

So I put a 12v solenoid from Jaycar in line with the boost line to my boost compensator. I control the solenoid with a switch in the cab. I normally drive around in economy mode (99% if the time), but if I want to pass another vehicle, I can hit the 'afterburner switch' and be gone in a flash.

Other fellows with electronic boost compensators have done the same thing, you just need the solenoid to control the air pressure to the compensator.

The solenoid is only about $14 at Jaycar.

Or the driver could just exercise some control? I prefer to have my car optimally tuned to give overall better fuel consumption all the time. I have my fuel pump maxed out, set to max fuel with the boost compensator tuned rather aggresively with boost to match, I get consistently around 12.0-12.5L/100km around town with stock ratios and 35'' tyres and not babying it either, not to bad for a really old tech diesel.

 

[AUSSIE1]

Or the driver could just exercise some control? I prefer to have my car optimally tuned to give overall better fuel consumption all the time. I have my fuel pump maxed out, set to max fuel with the boost compensator tuned rather aggresively with boost to match, I get consistently around 12.0-12.5L/100km around town with stock ratios and 35'' tyres and not babying it either, not to bad for a really old tech diesel.

What vehicle? Do you have any black cloud down low, cold etc? You would think so with those suggested settings.

 

[Terry Syd]

If the power 'hit' with an increase in fuel flow, then it would be easy to keep the diesel leaned out. However, I dropped the spring pre-load and ground the fuel meter rod ramp so that there is no perception of increased fuel flow - it just keeps getting stronger as the boost rises.

Using the solenoid, I only really notice a lack in power on long uphills where I can't hold 100 km/hr. When I want to pass, or to have some fun, I hit the switch and the boost compensator is fully active.

I generally get around 9-10 litres/100 km, however on the open road I get 8.3-8.4 litres/100km.

A good economy mod (and power) is to use a spring loaded boost controller to feed the boost to the waste gate. I made one up, but they are available for about $30 off the internet. It is not just the increase in boost pressure that you can tune in, it is the fact that they eliminate 'waste gate creep'. Not only will it increase the fuel economy (especially while cruising), but the boost pressure will come in sooner.

 

[tdi-rick]

What vehicle? Do you have any black cloud down low, cold etc? You would think so with those suggested settings.

I do James Bond takeoffs all the time but that's the price you pay to get the Garrett spinning with only 2.5 litres of swept volume and 3 tonnes mass.
Only pushing 17psi ATM too, I need to change the head gasket with the mileage I have to safely wind the boost up any more, but the ultimate plan is an Isuzu 4BD1T. 4 wheel burnouts anywhere, anyplace, anytime :msp_thumbsup:

 

[Rudolf73]

I do James Bond takeoffs all the time but that's the price you pay to get the Garrett spinning with only 2.5 litres of swept volume and 3 tonnes mass.
Only pushing 17psi ATM too, I need to change the head gasket with the mileage I have to safely wind the boost up any more, but the ultimate plan is an Isuzu 4BD1T. 4 wheel burnouts anywhere, anyplace, anytime :msp_thumbsup:

How about a cummins 6BT Rick? that should do dome burnouts... haha

 

[Hulsty]

What vehicle? Do you have any black cloud down low, cold etc? You would think so with those suggested settings.

BJ74 landcruiser with the factory turbo diesel, 3.4L 13BT 4cyl DI engine. It did blow abit with my old worn out turbo, I have since fitted a "improved" CT26 (standard style of turbo) and its only a slight haze behind the car. As I said the few pump is maxed out so I am running pretty lean, hits 20psi by 2000rpm and AFR's are estimated around 19:1. Its intercooled, big exhaust and I really have to push it to get pre turbo EGTs above 600c. I really want to put something like 10mm elements into the pump (current ones are 9mm) to get more fuel flow, way to many $$$ for me though. Turbo is capably of about 30psi.

 

[Hulsty]

Bought a Makita DCS6401, which according to the specs comes with a 3/8 chain (which I found out after my purchase today), being a newbie to chainsaws today I went by the Chainsaw and mower shop asking about a file to sharpen my chain with. Checked his books, $20 later I had a file and guide plate, got home noticed something, some checking later and the one he sold me is for a 3/8LP chain!!

 

[Terry Syd]

If you guys are interested in the ball check boost controller, here is a thread I started on a Toyota Surf forum on the mod - Toyota 4WD Surf Owners :: View topic - Boost controller/wastegate creep

I don't have a Surf, I just have a Surf engine in my Lux.

 

[AUSSIE1]

I do James Bond takeoffs all the time but that's the price you pay to get the Garrett spinning with only 2.5 litres of swept volume and 3 tonnes mass.
Only pushing 17psi ATM too, I need to change the head gasket with the mileage I have to safely wind the boost up any more, but the ultimate plan is an Isuzu 4BD1T. 4 wheel burnouts anywhere, anyplace, anytime :msp_thumbsup:

I had the pump and injectors rebuilt a couple of years ago and the decrease in fuel consumption was brilliant. Now it's disastrous.

I had the boost set at 12 psi with the fuel set to match keeping the egt's kept below 550c as per egt gauge so I've backed off the settings and she's still drinking flat out like a lizard!