The made in north america Old Magnesium Swap Meet.
- Thread starter 67L36Driver
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Yup, just pull, somtimes you have to pull really hard but it will come out. Dig out any insulation remains with your smallest screwdriver.
For the new wire use solid conductor core and a drip of Gorilla Glue in the hole. 'Screw' in the new wire as the center contact spike has a spiral spline to it.
Adirondackstihl
Flyz, Fuel & Fotos
Would I be alright to use a newer used plug wire I scavenged from parts saws that were known runners?
Or should I get 12" of new NOS stuff?
so where do you find this solid conductor core? i've been to 3 - 4 different auto parts stores and all they have is the twisted copper. also, can't find the same size as what came out of my C5. have to go one size larger. plan to shave the base a little.
Adirondackstihl
Flyz, Fuel & Fotos
I'm just gonna order this and make it work!
Chainsawr 1 ft , 7mm spark plug wire for old american chainsaws: homelite, mcculloch, lombard
igpoe
Addicted to ArboristSite
Everytime I ask for air-cooled VW wires, I get plug wires with actual steel wire at the core. Advance Auto,I'm thinking is where I've been going.
Igpoe
AU_K2500
NSM
Im looking for a MAC 3-25 Bar...any length. and a carb kit, if they even make them. Actually any knowledge or help would be great.
Actually what I've been using is stranded wire center. Still working on the spool of industrial engine wire my dad drug home from work over 40 years ago.
I used most of it in '70 when I replaced the plug wires on my '57 Desoto engine in my '53 Ford pickup. It would blow up the TV when I pulled into the driveway.
Don't use the carbon track center if you can help it.
crane
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ahh, it's not that bad. In the last couple of years here, a lot has been donated to members looking to get saws going. I'm down to an assortment of handlebars, tanks, carb boxes and the like. I have a bunch of nos gaskets and odds and ends hardware. I bought out an old dealer for some parts and about 13 saw carcasses. Most was junk and I'm down to the last of salvageable parts.
That CAD is a funny animal. I started with what I could find-mini mac's and Homelite XL-2's and have slowly graduated up the ranks(thanks to the members here), to gear drives, belt drives, and now 2 man saws. I just love those late 40's to early 60's saws!!
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I have a bunch of Homelite SXL/SXL-12/XL-12 parts. Basically 6 complete parts saws, minus a few motors I've sold off. Not the most exciting stuff, but PM me if you're looking for anything.
I'm basically looking to make some room in my 10'x12' shop, so I'm not looking to make a killing. $$$ or Pre-1980's McCulloch.
I'm basically looking to make some room in my 10'x12' shop, so I'm not looking to make a killing. $$$ or Pre-1980's McCulloch.
Never had a c-5, but for my older McCulloch, I use 7mm spark plug. It worked for my former 125, which wasn't getting adequate spark with smaller stuff.
I'd be interested in any XL-12 stuff you want to get rid of. I'll PM you tomorrow.
AU_K2500
NSM
Need some advice on best way to pull the fly wheel of this C7. Ive pulled the clutch and the jug so the crank is free except for the flywheel...even tried tapping (beating) the crank from the flywheel. whats the best way to do this?
when you pull that starter cup and wire basket off put the nut back on the crank. but rotate the nut so the flat side is up (i may be talking about a different saw so be advised). then screw the nut in until it is slightly above the end of the crank. hold on to the saw handle with the flywheel looking at the floor. take a 3# sledge and give it a couple sharp smacks. this should get it to let go. if not, hit it again with more vigor. be advised that you want to position the nut so as not to deform the crank. if you deform the nut, just go to a bolt and screw supply house. SAE thread so should be easily replaced. go forth and conquer. many ASers recommend a fiber hammer. i don't have one so used what i have. the mass in the 3# hammer means you don't have to hit it really hard too. just hard enough to get it to dislodge.
I reciently got a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller from Sears. Should have done it years ago. 20 USD plus tax.
The smallest bolts in the kit are 1/4-20's so you need to stop at the hardware store for at least two (get four, you will bend them sometimes) #12-24 x 3" and a few #12 flat washers.
When you run the #12 screws in, don't go too far and muck up your coil. It lives under there.
Use a 3/4" box end wrench and a large screwdriver and put as much pressure on the crank/flywheel joint as you can. Give the big screw a smak with a MFH (medium) and it will pop off.
I am done with breaking fins off of flywheels.
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AU_K2500
NSM
Preciate the advice, that makes me feel better about asking a guy at work to bring his steering wheel puller in tomorrow!
see your from St. Joseph, funny thing, Im interviewing with altec tomorrow for a job at a location in St. Joseph... small world
Needing a clutch for a Lombard Comango. Got odds and ends to trade, will try to get an inventory made next week while I'm taking time off.
Would you happen to have a picture?
Between the Homelites and the Remingtons, I seeing the same clutch setup used on both or very, very similar made by Fairbanks-Morse.
Remingtons are 1/2"-13 tpi left hand threads.
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Officially on the hunt for a Remington PL-6 or SL/PL-7. A US military version would be a big plus.
Do they even exist? I've never seen one yet. Just an SL-55 army.
Lots of good(?) saws to trade.
Do they even exist? I've never seen one yet. Just an SL-55 army.
Lots of good(?) saws to trade.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
When are you going to start futzing around with a big Bantam? Remingtons went to Viet Nam, 754s and a geardrive Bantam of some kind.
