To Port or Not to Port

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Just a 460 with a ported OEM jug. Ported meaning the jug, with some carb work maybe also.
 
I understand there are a ton of other variables like chains, manfacturers, saws that take better to modding etc.

This is what I've came up with so far

1) A smaller woodsported, muffler modded saw will probably outperform a muffler modded larger displacement saw (10 cc's or bigger) in smaller wood.

2) Once a person gets into bigger/denser wood the muffler modded larger displacement saw will probably start to seperate itself.

3) Unless you can do the porting yourself, chain maintenance and a muffler mod will give you the most bang for your $. If you learn to square file a chain it will give you an advantage to round filing.

4) One of the big advantages to porting it will allow you to get more out of a smaller/lighter saw. This is probably more advantageous for someone who is going to uses his/her saw day in and day out.

5) Having a woodsported saw does have a coolness factor to it, but unless you do it yourself, that coolness does have a considerable pricetag on it.

6) If you do decide to get your saw ported it is probably going to be less tolerable to lack of maintenance. No matter what kinda saw you have stock, muffler modded, or ported, maintenance is an extremely important variable in its overall performance.

7) Percentage of gains is usually magnified in modding smaller displacement saws vs larger displacements.
 
I strongly disagree with the idea that a ported saw will do the job of a larger saw. It simply will not, but it will do the job it was intended to do better after porting.
In other words if you need a 372 and have a 346, dont get the 346 ported in hopes that it will transform it into a 70cc saw because it wont.
FWIW most times when you see a small saw compared to a big one it is in minuscule softwood. Which IMO is very misleading and amounts to stacking the deck as far as I am concerned.
A 346 may cut faster through a #2 pencil than a 066, but who cares.
 
I agree with you.

That isn't what i implying by my #4 if thats what you were thinking.
 
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Some guys that will use a small saw almost entirely for limbing like the RPM and light weight advantages. But for those long cuts in big wood, there is no replacement for displacement. Though torque can be brought up some on a smaller saw to help it keep up in bigger wood, this will be at the expense of producing more heat.

Might have to edit this, I think Ben and I agree.
 
Well then,,,,,, I suppose,,

in big wood, there is no replacement for displacement. Though torque can be brought up some on a smaller saw to help it keep up in bigger wood, this will be at the expense of producing more heat.

Might have to edit this, I think Ben and I agree.
It's freakin Unanimous,,,,,,,,
Unequivocally,,,,,, There is absolutely NO SUBSTITUTE FOR CUBIC INCHES,,,and by the same token when it comes to torque,,,,,The longer the stroke Tha deeper tha Grunt and usually from even lower rpms giving you a broader powerband,,,, big saws for big wood,,,,, RULE!!!!!!! :rockn: :rockn: :rockn: if your fare is large wood day in day out,,, ya need 85cc's as tha minimum JMHO
 
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TW - This is a bit off topic, but semi related to your last post. What is a safe threshold a person can turn with stock bearings before they start wanting to scoot (crank is spinning faster then the bearings want to go)?
 
I think you will have other problems arise before the bearings start to skate.
I was just curious because I've heard varying numbers in the past ranging anywhere from 17,500 to 20k. If your turning anything higher then that you should go with ceramics.
 
Im kicking the idea of getting my saws played with to help compensate for the loss of power due to altitude...

... but things are working out pretty well with the b&c setups I've tried so far...
 
Don't know what rpm the bearings would start to fail, but wonder if this is related to the piston weight and compression, If the force of decelleration on the piston at TDC get more than the force of compression pushing down on the piston, I can see bearings becoming loaded and unloaded leading to skating.
 
The trick to any saw is it's gotta be sharp. A sharp 346 will outcut a dull 090.
You just have to match up the saw for the job.
Here's my 346KD. I put a 359 carb on it and with the 359 air filtre it just fits under the hood. I've been using it for limbing tops.
John

WL45.jpg


WL44.jpg
 
Hey Gypo!!!!

I see tha snow is gone,,,,,,,I agree with ya whole-heartedly about sharp chains,,,, they can make ya or break ya,,,, in a heartbeat!!!!!!!!
 
Ya, I just finished dumping 120 ripe pumpkins, only 3 were cherry. 30,000 ft. in total with only 7500 ft. of veneer. Was hoping for 40% peelers, but alas, the bush was tapped. Tappers bleed the life blood out of the Maples and render them to less than half their value if they'd just leave them alone. Why don't they just tap the open grown goontrees instead of the valuable crop trees? Beats me.
John

WL42.jpg
 
I see tha snow is gone,,,,,,,I agree with ya whole-heartedly about sharp chains,,,, they can make ya or break ya,,,, in a heartbeat!!!!!!!!

The snow is mostly gone now and just a bit of mud. No rain in a week, so that's a good thing. Here's a 3 week old picture before we got the 24" dump.
John
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Makes me shiver!!!

Yeah I bet you are ready for the thaw!!!:buttkick:

I thought the post about the trees pi$$in their roots when they saw ya comin with the modded 385 was funny,, tried to rep ya but I'm hosed
 

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