Mounted on a board to display at a GTG. In practice, this would be a hole in a trailer bed, table, bench, etc., where the vise would normally be used. Really solid!
Philbert
Philbert
Tree Machine Filing Clamps
- Thread starter Philbert
- Start date
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Hole vise fits between boards on flat bed trailer (wing nut is not installed - this was for photo op only!).
Philbert
Philbert
Bilge Rat LT 20
ArboristSite Operative
For use in the woods something like a lag bolt welded on the bottom so it could be screwed into a stump or log.
Stick your bar wrench into the throat of the clamp to turn it into the wood.
Stick your bar wrench into the throat of the clamp to turn it into the wood.
Bilge Rat LT 20
ArboristSite Operative
You could also just use lag bolts thru the mounting holes in the base.
Get a lag that fits the holes then depending on the lags head size weld a nut to it that fits the bar wrench socket.
Get a lag that fits the holes then depending on the lags head size weld a nut to it that fits the bar wrench socket.
I have seen some home made versions, where someone welded or brazed a lag bolt to a C clamp, in order to make a stump vise. Lots of commercial versions out there for use in the woods.
Philbert
Philbert
Tree Machine
Addicted to ArboristSite
Tree Machine
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here is how we are sending them out to guys right now.
Let me post another picture,
OK, this image is better.
Still al little fuzzy.
But here we have Joe, taping the chosen fasteners to the base of the bar clamps.
The choice of fastener was decided upon, by me, after trying 24 different screws and lags.
Guess what? They all work.
l would like to explain why the choice.
Tree Machine
Addicted to ArboristSite
There was talk of selling you the clamps, and you provide your own fasteners.
I said , Nay, that is always everyone's option.
This clamping device needed to ship WITH fastening hardware,
ready for you to use immediately.
I chose 1=inch long lath screws.
They are pan-head, so the screw head is it's own washer.,
They are phillip's head.
The diameter is fairly thin so you can screw the unit down with just a hand screwdriver.
This screw is more than adequate, which is all it needs to be.
I have these two saws elevated up off the bench here as part of earlier testing,
could the saw run at idle for two minutes held up like that?
Yes, but I hate idling a ferocous, animal saw for two minutes as that is not what they are built to do.
I said , Nay, that is always everyone's option.
This clamping device needed to ship WITH fastening hardware,
ready for you to use immediately.
I chose 1=inch long lath screws.
They are pan-head, so the screw head is it's own washer.,
They are phillip's head.
The diameter is fairly thin so you can screw the unit down with just a hand screwdriver.
This screw is more than adequate, which is all it needs to be.
I have these two saws elevated up off the bench here as part of earlier testing,
could the saw run at idle for two minutes held up like that?
Yes, but I hate idling a ferocous, animal saw for two minutes as that is not what they are built to do.
Tree Machine
Addicted to ArboristSite
These clamps were designed along the way with input from arborists.
Their current form is a crowd-source effort involving all of you.
We can change the fasteners that are shipped, right here, right now.
Their current form is a crowd-source effort involving all of you.
We can change the fasteners that are shipped, right here, right now.
Tree Machine
Addicted to ArboristSite
Pretty cool.
juttree
ArboristSite Guru
Philbert was kind enough to send me one of these vices with the C-clamp welded to it and I had the chance to use it for the first time today. Both myself and my coworker sharpened a saw with it and we each thought it was a very well made vice. It was nice and sturdy and held the saw in place no problem.
Thank you very much Philbert.
Thank you very much Philbert.
That is the only one of those ever made, as far as I know (pictured above in post #86) and a Tree Machine original! I have a few versions of these now to use, so I offered it in one of the 'Christmas Giving' threads so that others could try it and use it.
Please post any other thoughts or comments about it (where you used it, photos, etc.), as well as any ideas you might come up with in this thread for Jim and others to see.
Philbert
juttree
ArboristSite Guru
After using it for a while longer I'll post some pictures of where I like to use it and any other thoughts or issues I have. It's a really good idea, very handy for a multitude of places. The one thing I was thinking of is the screw that holds the bar in place. If there could be some sort of end on it about the width of a small vice, then the clamp would be able to hold the whole saw up and you wouldn't need to have a place to rest the tank. Maybe it's a dumb idea but it's a thought I had.
Tree Machine
Addicted to ArboristSite
When designing the clamp, we did account for this.
You could position the clamps closer together. These are 10" apart, maximum spacing for the 14" bar
Jut, though, is wanting to get by with only one clamp, and the point is to have enough clamping surface area to elevate the saw and hold it firm enough to oppose the imbalance caused by the powerhead.
We posed to try this bigger anvil/knob interface face early on. We ditched the idea because the advantage was so minimal.
The studs we use in the threaded knob are stainless steel. you will have clamping force beyond what you need.
You can spin a bar nut onto the threaded end of the threaded knob, as the threads are the same pitch as on your chainsaw, M8x1.25, then you would have to do a little tack weld to affix permanently the nut onto the end of the stud. Yes, you could add a larger clamp face onto the stud. However, you can never get the stud back out, limiting other functions.
Lastly, we found you can only position the saw one direction. If the weight of the powerhead is tightening the knob, it'll hold. If the weight is positioned on the single stud to the lefty-loosey direction, it will still hold the bar firm, just not prevent a rotation.
Good point on that, Jut.
Or, you can just put a scrap of 2X_ under the powerhead (see photo in post#5).
Philbert
Philbert
juttree
ArboristSite Guru
Was using the clamp again today so I thought I'd post a picture.
Bump
(just because)
Philbert
(just because)
Philbert
juttree
ArboristSite Guru
After using this bar clamp for a year and being reminded of this thread, I thought I should comment on it.
I have to tell you all how much I appreciate the creativity of each and every one of you.
This thing is really handy, I use it multiple times a week on all different size saws. I have a rope bag that I keep all my sharpening supplies in and it fits right in there without a problem. The c clamp makes it easy to find a place to sharpen. I use it on the steps to the trucks, side rails of the trailer, the steps that go up to the bucket on the bucket truck, the chippers, bench at the shop, and well I'm sure you get the point about being easy to find a place to clamp it down. It's very sturdy and has held up real well. The only issue I've had is the little round swivel part that does the actual clamping came off of the clamp. This problem was my fault because I clamped it to something that actually pulled it off when I loosened the clamp because it had a sort of ridge that it clamped in between. I haven't yet figured out how I'm going to mount it back on but I also haven't really tried yet because it's not too big of an issue because it still works fine if I have a good flat spot to tighten it down on.
Well I just wanted to say a few words about it to let people know what I thought. I would definitely recommend it to anyone thinking of getting one.
Ozarker 1
ArboristSite Member
Got one of the stainless Chainmeister bar-clamps from Tree Stuff, http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=3459 , so thought I'd pass along some photos of how I use it on the truck, but also comment that it functions perfectly, and I have no complaints, period. Quality product that works as advertised, and at a decent price. Cudos to the designer, @TreeMachine , and all those who had input into its creation!
I did not use the screws that came with the Chainmeister, instead purchasing some stainless 3/16" lag bolts and washers. The wooden block is 1 1/8" white oak. Just a left-over piece from another project.
You can see in the photos how the board's position is moved so that the powerhead remains supported during the filing of the chain, no matter which side is being filed. This set-up is rigid, with no wiggle at all.
I did not use the screws that came with the Chainmeister, instead purchasing some stainless 3/16" lag bolts and washers. The wooden block is 1 1/8" white oak. Just a left-over piece from another project.
You can see in the photos how the board's position is moved so that the powerhead remains supported during the filing of the chain, no matter which side is being filed. This set-up is rigid, with no wiggle at all.
