wanted: ripping chain experiences and advice please

[woodwiser]

:Eye: Please present your opinion of ripping chain based on my following question.

I just bought a timberjig big mill kit from Logosol with two 9 foot aluminum guide rails. I plan on buying a Husky 395xp powerhead. I would like to cut some large southern yellow pines, white oaks, red oaks, poplar, sweetgum and just about anything else hurricane IVAN blew down on my relatives property back in September 2004. Most of the trees are between 12 to 25" diameter and up, with some possibly 36" in diameter. I want to cut stock that I can eventually use for flooring and paneling as well as some framing lumber. I want to have a small kerf and have heard that a picco chain is very nice. I am thinking of getting a 16" bar and also a longer one like a 24" or even longer to slab through the big ones in one pass ( maybe something like 30" ) Any advice on brand and type of chains and bars and where to buy them is very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance for the feedback

 

[Doug01]

I'm not familliar with the timberjig kit. I have an Alaskan Mill. If it is anything like that you will need to remember that the working surface of your bar is several inches less due to the mill being clamped to the bar. As far as chains all I have used is the milling chain from baileys. Just like regular chauin but different angle. Good luck. It sounds like you have a lot to mill. Hope you have a lot of time........and help.

Doug

 

[Oregon_Rob]

I have tried
Granberg style (with top plates removed)
Bailys style (stadnard full comp and skip chain filed differently)
Wood Bug style (Semi-chisel, skip filed differently)
Normal LG chain filed for every day chain saw use.

I didn't find any one that was vastly better than the others. I think over all I perfer the Wood Bug style as it is easy to file and needs to be filed a little less often. I have not tried the Pico or any other narrow chains, although the idea has potential.

Happy cutten,


Rob

 

[thompson1600]

I have tried the Granberg Style chain and just using a regular chain.

If you are using a 20" or less bar, I find that if I just keep my normal Stihl RS chain sharp it works almost as good as a ripping chain. For stuff with longer bars I use the ripping chain. Much smoother cut, a little faster.

Tom

 

[Lakeside53]

I have tried the Granberg Style chain and just using a regular chain.

If you are using a 20" or less bar, I find that if I just keep my normal Stihl RS chain sharp it works almost as good as a ripping chain. For stuff with longer bars I use the ripping chain. Much smoother cut, a little faster.

Tom

I addition to this, for longer bars (really the cut length is all that matters), the Stihl square ground full or semi skip chain works great out of the box - it is already at 10 degrees and so have a lot less work to do when resharpening it by hand (just use a round file). At the first sharpen, to make it a little better at clearing out the cut, grind off the sides of every 5th (or so) cutter. No need to spend a bunch of money of a "real" rip chain.

 

[woodwiser]

[As far as chains all I have used is the milling chain from baileys. Just like regular chauin but different angle. Good luck. It sounds like you have a lot to mill. Hope you have a lot of time........and help.

Doug[/QUOTE]

Hey Doug,

Thanks for the reply.

Is the Baileys chain narrow kerf ? Ever have any trouble with it breaking ?

What kind of horsepower is pulling it ?

Yes I have lots to mill. In order to preserve more wood I am thinking about minimum cuts and stacking the large beams to go back and resaw them into smaller stock later. I figured I would slice them down the center and take off the bark on the outside so they will hopefully not split and check. Any body have any advice on doing something like that down in the hot and humid climate of lower Alabama ?

 

[woodwiser]

Wood Bug style (Semi-chisel, skip filed differently)
I think over all I perfer the Wood Bug style as it is easy to file and needs to be filed a little less often.

Happy cutten,


Rob[/QUOTE]

Hey Rob Thanks for the reply

Where would I get the specs on Wood Bug chain and where to buy it ?

Ever have any trouble with it breaking ?

What is the largest and hardest piece of wood you have cut with it ?

What is the horsepower your saw pulls it with ?

Thanks for the info

 

[woodwiser]

I have tried the Granberg Style chain and just using a regular chain.

If you are using a 20" or less bar, I find that if I just keep my normal Stihl RS chain sharp it works almost as good as a ripping chain. For stuff with longer bars I use the ripping chain. Much smoother cut, a little faster.

Tom

Hey Tom, Thanks for the input

By the way that is some fine furniture I saw on your website !

What kind of attachment are you using in the pictures you show in your sawing backyard trees into lumber ?

Thanks again

 

[woodwiser]

I addition to this, for longer bars (really the cut length is all that matters), the Stihl square ground full or semi skip chain works great out of the box - it is already at 10 degrees and so have a lot less work to do when resharpening it by hand (just use a round file). At the first sharpen, to make it a little better at clearing out the cut, grind off the sides of every 5th (or so) cutter. No need to spend a bunch of money of a "real" rip chain.

Hey Lakeside ! Thanks for the tips Sounds like some good ones. Where is a fine place to get Stihl chain from ?
What kind of bar would be best for what I want to do ?
How wide of a kerf does that chain make ?
Ever have trouble with chains breaking ?

Thanks again

 

[Marco]

Lotsa work, lotsa gas, lotsa noise and lotsa sawdust.
I have a GB milling attachment on a Sachs 133, not as big as your Husky but getting there. I use GB chain at this time, haven't tried much else. I use this on odd or short peices I can't get on my circular mill. If you are concerned about the kerf width you should keep on the lookout for a large bandsaw to use as a resaw and use your chainsawmill to make cants. Depending on your schedule, volume (sounds like you have big plans) and if you have access to a tractor you may want to consider looking up at least a woodmizer or an old Belsaw (Timberking) portable mill. Otherwise in hot humid Alabama weather the bugs may beat you to it.

 

[Lakeside53]

Hey Lakeside ! Thanks for the tips Sounds like some good ones. Where is a fine place to get Stihl chain from ?
What kind of bar would be best for what I want to do ?
How wide of a kerf does that chain make ?
Ever have trouble with chains breaking ?

Thanks again

Your local Stihl dealer will be your best source. Mail order means freight, but you might look. Madsens will sell you Stihl Chain. If you are going to do a LOT of work, buy a 100 foot, or even a 25 foot roll. Much chepaer this way.

No, I've never broken a Stihl chain - these are not the narrow kerf types(only rated 2hp and below so be very carefull using these on big HP and long bars and they will stretch badly). Use a Pro style bar (solid and not very flexible) like a Stihl ES series (not for your Husky) or equivalent Oregon Power match. On a mill you're not worried about weight and light-weight or reduced weight bars flex.

 

[thompson1600]

That is the Granberg Small Log Mill (the baby brother of the Alaskan). It's the same as the Alaskan in most respects, except it doesn't have the second, end of the bar clamp. That way I can use whatever size bar I need with it, since nothing is out at the end to get in the way. The other one is the Granberg Mini Mill II, I use that for squaring up the cants and edging.

Really looking and getting ready to get a Logosol, but don't have the $$ yet.

Tom

 

[woodwiser]

canting up logs cause of emergency conditions

keep on the lookout for a large bandsaw to use as a resaw and use your chainsawmill to make cants. Depending on your schedule, volume (sounds like you have big plans) and if you have access to a tractor you may want to consider looking up at least a woodmizer or an old Belsaw (Timberking) portable mill. Otherwise in hot humid Alabama weather the bugs may beat you to it.

Hey Marco, good to hear from you

I like your good advice. You are right about the bugs and fungus varmits. I have been concerned about them. Fortunately the hardwoods with dirt on the root ball are still green in the majority of the cases. The pines are the first to die when they hit the ground. I was thinking of trying to shave just enough off the outside of the logs to get off the bark in hopes that would help stop degrade from bugs and trapped moisture. I pondered possibly splitting them down the middle also to hopefully reduce checking and spliting. I imagine that when I got back around to resawing them it would be slower since the wood would hopefully be very dry and decay free.
Any thoughts or experiences with resawing big old dry cants like I am thinking off ?