macstrange
ArboristSite Operative
I normally use a copper dye. I have crysocholla that I'll be using also. This was a trade and I've got to much into it already.
What are you building with your milled wood? merged
- Thread starter stonykill
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2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
Driftwood table I built and sold. I built the tube steel legs and antiqued them.a maple burl table and a few clocks I made.
macstrange
ArboristSite Operative
They look great. Awesome job on the legs!
shawn
shawn
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
A couple more pics of the driftwood table.
Is that an epoxy resin finish?
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
Min wax high build gloss poly. Not super happy with it.
macstrange
ArboristSite Operative
Minwax is terrible. Here's an idea a friend of mine suggested, Zep acrylic floor finish. $20/gal. Looks pretty easy to apply, durable and cheap. pretty thin out of the bottle so it should spray a lot easier than other finishes. I'm going to give it a shot on my next proj.
Also try waterlox tung oil. A few coats rubbed with steel wool between each and finish with a good wax .
shawn
Also try waterlox tung oil. A few coats rubbed with steel wool between each and finish with a good wax .
shawn
kimosawboy
ArboristSite Operative
Not a fan of the thick gloss finish, but different strokes....
Looks like you have lots of air bubles in it, did you apply heat after applying??Not bashing you or anything but I find that MinWax is a pretty decent product. Are you not happy with the product or the end result on the table???
G Vavra
Zep Floor finish is not recommended for wood
Looks like you have lots of air bubles in it, did you apply heat after applying??Not bashing you or anything but I find that MinWax is a pretty decent product. Are you not happy with the product or the end result on the table???
G Vavra
Zep Floor finish is not recommended for wood
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
Not happy with the dust spots and bubbles in the finish. I like the thick looking gloss finish though so I have to play around with it till I find something I like.
Greenland South
ArboristSite Operative
I really like that table. I hope it gets put some where it won't get walked into during a power failure.A couple more pics of the driftwood table.
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
When you say apply heat, do you mean with a heat gun or hair dryer
Are you sanding between each coat?
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
Yeah. The gloss just shows every defect
Maybe less coats?
kimosawboy
ArboristSite Operative
A heat gun or hair dryer moves too much air , much easier with a blowtorch...
The guy in this video does it a good way.
The guy in this video does it a good way.
macstrange
ArboristSite Operative
He's using resin. I'm not sure if this would work with a water base or oil base finish.
shawn
shawn
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
I have used a torch to get the bubbles out of dura deck before. I would think the poly fumes would ignite
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Am no expert and haven't done so for a while but here what worked for me when was doing it a fair bit back in the day.
Don't over cook (but obviously don't under cook it too) the epoxy mix and that will help give time for some bubbles (pay attention to how you are mixing it too) time to settle out of the container and out of the finish, get the pouring space and wood up a few degrees hotter than ambient and then kill the heat just before pouring and let the falling heat gradient take some potential puff out of the air in the wood surface, a small propane torch (I liked the ones that screw directly onto a small can) are good for popping bubbles (not much air movement and only very fleeting and localised spike in heat). Got to keep dust out of the air. It seems to wait in the wings and then dive in once you start putting the resin on. So, if you can wet the floor, stop all air movement (if can't guarantee the dust free air then do so only atfer you are done with the torch or the vendor says the fumes won't ignite) (or positve pressure the room), and at the very least build a cover over your work until it sets, then it does help.
Mind you, there are times when I would have been much happier with quite a bit of dust than no dust but one die-hard kamakazi flying insect that leaves a history of their struggle for you to read the next morning.
Don't over cook (but obviously don't under cook it too) the epoxy mix and that will help give time for some bubbles (pay attention to how you are mixing it too) time to settle out of the container and out of the finish, get the pouring space and wood up a few degrees hotter than ambient and then kill the heat just before pouring and let the falling heat gradient take some potential puff out of the air in the wood surface, a small propane torch (I liked the ones that screw directly onto a small can) are good for popping bubbles (not much air movement and only very fleeting and localised spike in heat). Got to keep dust out of the air. It seems to wait in the wings and then dive in once you start putting the resin on. So, if you can wet the floor, stop all air movement (if can't guarantee the dust free air then do so only atfer you are done with the torch or the vendor says the fumes won't ignite) (or positve pressure the room), and at the very least build a cover over your work until it sets, then it does help.
Mind you, there are times when I would have been much happier with quite a bit of dust than no dust but one die-hard kamakazi flying insect that leaves a history of their struggle for you to read the next morning.
Nato
ArboristSite Operative
Yup
Yup I've read a little braille in the morning also. It always reads "I got you sucker!"
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