I've owned Husky and currently stihl. I just buy the best performing saw at the time. No loyalty either way.Hey, orange is my favorite color , luckily for me, some of the best equipment comes in a great shade of orange.
What is the all time best chainsaw
- Thread starter donmakesallthefuelbegone
- Start date
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I've owned most of the saws built in the last 20+ yrs, if one color doesn't work for the application, I'll get a different color too
.Life's too short to run junk.
Is that all you got.
No I've got old Homelites too!!!! Kind of funny they all still run..........
Along with my McCulloch 610 Timber Bear that I bought back in 1977:
I started and ran in last week. It will pull a 28" bar and chain if I ask it to.
Those old Homies and Macs weren't fast but they would keep on a chugging. Heavy no AV or brake but good reliable saws.
The Homie super XL was only 60cc and slow, but the reed valve motor would pull a 24" bar in hardwood. I fell and bucked a 50" ash with my fathers years ago. I was young and didn't worry about the white knuckle back then.
daniel chode rider
ArboristSite Lurker
Right
"Good balance" I mean yeah sure, I find it balances real nice with a 28", but that's probably preexisting bias from always running it that way.
so stihl does say you can run a 36" but it won't be oiled appropriately? I beg to differ. My crew's big saw is a 500 with a 36", we run that thing in big (usually 40"+) wood all day every day and we don't burn up bars or chains any more than the rest. It oils just fine. As for balance, there aren't many saws that have ~good balance~ on 36, 42, 50 inch bars but it kinda doesn't matter cause you need em that big.
Actually, the perfect length for a 500 is probably 32"....
Ohh yeah. I wont be arguing with that one.
The thing is though the 500 CAN do it if you need it to. And it's light for packing around on the steep wet hillsides. And it's the best saw for auto adjusting to elevation changes. That's why it appeals to loggers even if a 395 or a 661 has more power.
daniel chode rider
ArboristSite Lurker
Don't let me tell you your business, I run the saws I don't (usually) fix them. But was the bar length really the issue or did he just Rev it super high before it warmed up? One of our other climbers blew up a couple 500s (lol) holding them wide open before they did their little auto adjust thing.
Or maybe running it too hard before it was broken in. I knew an OLD saw guy who always told me to break in brand new saws by running them light duty until you got a few tanks of gas through them.
Or how about a dull chain and forcing the hell out of it through each cut until it heated up then seized.
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daniel chode rider
ArboristSite Lurker
If I'm wrong, tell me how I'm wrong, chippah....
I've seen them blow on guys who've never had a problem, and I've see a number with piston damage to the top(maybe ethanol? ).
I'm not gonna tell you how you're wrong...
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I hear, so far, we don't know what this is about.
Homelite 925 Super was a fast cutting saw!
daniel chode rider
ArboristSite Lurker
Listen here, there's three things I'm good at:I'm not gonna tell you how you're wrong...
1. Slaying big muthaf u c k i n g trees
2. Talking **** on the internet
3. Blowing up chainsaws
so heyyyy maaaaan.... don't tell me MY business!
I'm not gonna
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They run just fine even with the damage. The only time I've seen similar damage was on a 372, looked like a piston that had had pre-detonation issues. Bunch of small holes divots on top, front/back looked perfect.
And you're from Washington state? So soft wood territory. That sums up most of your argument.
