034 Resurrection....:dizzy:

Adirondackstihl · Dec 6, 2012

This thread make take a while.....:hmm3grin2orange:

OUCH!!

I need to finish fabricating my case splitter before I go any further.
I've decided to replace the crank bearings :redface:

watsonr · Dec 6, 2012

Very good start!

1Alpha1 · Dec 6, 2012

Looks as if that piston is gonna need a little bit of buffing out. :hmm3grin2orange:

glock37 · Dec 6, 2012

Take the Screws out of case and Pins heat the bosses around the bearings one side at a time with a heat gun when it starts to smoke

Take a soft hammer tap the crank out of each side of the case

the heat will make the bearings come right out

will put less stress on the case then pushing them out cold

Once you have crank out of case heat the bearing with heat gun and using a bearing separator pull bearings off crank repaeat for each side

you can heat the new bearing to install on crank very easy do for both sides

then heat case half to install crank and bearing together repeat for each side

remember new gasket and oil pickup tube inside oil resisvor

Before reassembly clean or repaint or powder both case halves makes a great job when done

after together oil bearings and tap crank back and forth to free it up to turn freely

install seals

Adirondackstihl · Dec 9, 2012

I have 2 used OEM cylinders to work with. One has some crazy aluminum transfer but I'm pretty sure I can clean it up. I was shocked to see that each cylinder is very different. One is STIHL branded the other MAHLE.

The STIHL cylinder has nicely shaped lower transfers with hardly any port chamfering. The MAHLE has some lower transfer restriction, but nice port chamfering.

Adirondackstihl · Dec 9, 2012

Pay no attention to the aluminum shavings in the STIHL cylinder......

Smokepole · Dec 9, 2012

When I saw that first picture, I went out back to see if my basket case was still where I left it. :laugh:

Adirondackstihl · Dec 18, 2012

I'm to the point where I need to split the cases and install new crank bearings.
I'm hesitant for some reason. Afraid to fark things up....??? IDK??
I guess I need a push or something:msp_confused:

cutforfun · Dec 18, 2012

does this work

LegDeLimber · Dec 18, 2012

Look again at that Mahle... I think the "chamfering" is either convex or square.
I think You can see a small bit of alum scraping in pic 0008-2
and the pics show reflections* on the corners at the edge of cylinder wall
and the edge of the port tunnel
instead of in the middle area where a reflection would show
if the chamfer was a convex radius.

*think of the way light reflects and
makes the glare spot in the middle of a piston, when it's photoed
and it's convex (as presented to the camera) shape.

Adirondackstihl · Dec 18, 2012

LegDeLimber said:
Look again at that Mahle... I think the "chamfering" is either convex or square.
I think You can see a small bit of alum scraping in pic 0008-2and the pics show reflections* on the corners at the edge of cylinder wall
and the edge of the port tunnel
instead of in the middle area where a reflection would show
if the chamfer was a convex radius.

*think of the way light reflects and
makes the glare spot in the middle of a piston, when it's photoed
and it's convex (as presented to the camera) shape.

Hence the reason for the rebuild.
You wanna see aluminum transfer.......I can post pics thatll make your head spin

LegDeLimber · Dec 18, 2012

Ah, I understand a bit better now.

sefh3 · Dec 18, 2012

Need more pictures of the splitter for the case. Not seeing how this will work. I use a piece of metal that attaches to the bar studs and has an opening for the crank. I use a puller to split the case.

2twins · Dec 18, 2012

Good luck with that. I resurrected an 034av a couple of years ago its very early........says "made in west Germany" on it and has a non-adjustable chain oiler. I think it was made 1984-5. I really like it!

Adirondackstihl · Dec 18, 2012

sefh3 said:
Need more pictures of the splitter for the case. Not seeing how this will work.

The pics shown above were taken before the splitter was complete. I have since welded a 5/8-18 nut to the face of the plate.
I'll take another pic when I get home.

Adirondackstihl · Dec 18, 2012

sefh3 said:
Need more pictures of the splitter for the case. Not seeing how this will work. I use a piece of metal that attaches to the bar studs and has an opening for the crank. I use a puller to split the case.

Make more sense now :msp_confused:

sefh3 · Dec 19, 2012

Much better. It makes sense now. Repped you for that.

sefh3 · Dec 19, 2012

Are you OEM or aftermarket bearings.

Adirondackstihl · Dec 19, 2012

sefh3 said:
Are you OEM or aftermarket bearings.

Ordered bearings from my STIHL Tech buddy. He ordered an OEM clutch side and AM flywheel side bearing :msp_mellow:

Tried splitting the cases last night. I could tell it wanted to come apart. You could see the halves beginning to split along the bottom of the crankcase and along the top of the oil tank. The alignment pins were holding fast however. I gave up and will give it another go another night.

7sleeper · Dec 19, 2012

You should apply some penetrating oil and try tomorow if your not in a rush.

7

034 Resurrection....:dizzy:

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