1/3 Diameter Notch Rule

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Another caution. They say you can move the wedge close to the holding wood to lift the tree, I do not like this because you are lifting the tree almost straight up. Just asking to break the holding wood if you are really beating on it. With the wedge, or wedges at the farthest point from the holding wood, you are pushing the tree over and putting side pressure on the holding wood, which is what you want.

Not going to comment much on the crazy, gaping undercut they show. A humboldt 30 degree works fine 99% of the time. Theres is not a technigue for logging, and it ain't a game.
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I was really frisky today and went for a 3/8 notch .... woo the knees were a trembling with anticipation of some wacko barber chair or perhaps 15 diagram explanation of the consequences .... thank GOD that TreeSpyder wasn't around or I'd have to digest a 45 page Thesis's on the equal and opposite digestive track! :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Yup...gotta agree. Ekka, with his experience and knowledge, could have helped this guy. Instead, he chose to display his immaturity and shameful lack of humanity.

Hey Ekka...if the guy has a legitimate question, why not just answer it? If he argues with you or rejects your advice or turns out to be a cretin then you can whack him around a bit. Until then let's give him the benefit of the doubt. :cheers:

You gotta be kidding me. Multiple personality disorder?
 
order

Multiple personality disorder is a lot like a tree with three tops.

It can be hard to figure out which way they're leaning being so complex and all. The fallers I know will generally use multiple undercuts just to be sure.

Of course, suspect rot, cankers and an unbalanced root structure.
 
For thinning to waste 12 year old forests where the trees are getting a strain for 60cc stihls, on a hill just a 2-cut, away they go airborne, 60 foot trees doing somersaults, waste your time scarfing them, drop them sideways they take other good trees with them when it's this steep, best way to lay them over with a thick hinge and wedges, leave them and hope they die, won't happen, too many know-all officials, the trees survive it, these conifer trees are like weeds, who wants to be belting and hammering pita wedges anyway, they're paying by the damn hectare and muttering bark damage, they think they can plant trees on s**t country and get a perfect forest, don't work that way, takes too long with wedges and a hammer's far too heavy to be carrying around, chop a batten if you're desperate, doing it all wrong if you're fighting gravity, effortless going with it, there's always room somewhere for the tree to land clear, plus I'm not putting my back out for no bastard
 
I was really frisky today and went for a 3/8 notch .... woo the knees were a trembling with anticipation of some wacko barber chair or perhaps 15 diagram explanation of the consequences .... thank GOD that TreeSpyder wasn't around or I'd have to digest a 45 page Thesis's on the equal and opposite digestive track! :hmm3grin2orange:

Eeeee.... a 3/8 notch? Ohmygod! That is 0.0417 larger than desired. You might lose your tree license for doing that too often!
 
Multiple personality disorder is a lot like a tree with three tops.

It can be hard to figure out which way they're leaning being so complex and all. The fallers I know will generally use multiple undercuts just to be sure.

Of course, suspect rot, cankers and an unbalanced root structure.

Even though we must usually make volume deductions when cruising a multiple top tree, there sometimes may actually be more volume in a multiple top. Since one is cruising only to one top, when fork or forks are above DBH, there may be "free" logs to be had if tree has been paid for in advance. Link to personalities? I have no idea. Not a shrink. :) Continue on...:popcorn:
 
You gotta be kidding me. Multiple personality disorder?

Not sure who you directed this at but after reading your posts ... I certainly wont ask what the point is. :dizzy:

I often wont directly answer because people need to learn and research, without exercising their own brain you end up with herds of sheep.

This is a fundamental near global rule of thumb.

There's been some expansion upon it and ideas tossed out there, 17 pages of it. If I posted my smart ass page 17 quote straight off the bat it would have gone down very different, either a quick short thread or a fight.

Now that everything was said and done I posted my smart comment and guess what ... no room for a fight.

So, dont confuse your distorted perspective with my state of mental health (if you did that is). Coz I'd whip your ass in my sleep. :chainsaw:
 
Stirring the shyte...

And that (^^^) was said by a man that runs around in velcro shoes to keep from falling off the other side of the earth, too! :greenchainsaw:

Maybe cabin feaver is geting to them down under as well. Its the longest week of the year up here, so its the shortest down there. I can see Ekka grabbing one of his 440s and wandering the halls of AS, in one of his multiple personaes, 'Shining' style...


"I only want to cut one third!!!"
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Hey, I got a Wojo modded muffler on my 44! Look bloody out mate. :cheers:

No cabin fever here, winter is like the best time of year, 24C, clear blue skies and not much wind.

Summer is the rainy season, it's semi-tropical here.

Just gotta visit to whip a few rednecks.
 
Good to see this thread is still running.

Ekka your winter season must be your busy season now,if like you say your summers are wet. Our winters here in Canada [Nov.-Mar.] is not our busy arborist season, almost zero business. If there was hand fallers still in the bush ,I'd probably spend my winters doing that.

I got something here for Smokechase. Years back when Cannon[ now WoodLand Pro] bar company out of Langley B.C was a small shop, I could just phone them and they would make me one bar built the way I wanted[timber sports, carving]. I had a special bar built with no belly in it ,straight as an arrow. It had the old Oregon 2 7/8" medium contour 1/4 moon joint tip,the rails ran straight back then tapered down at the tail. I designed this bar for tree[pole] felling competitions. When making the notch in the pole the cut [apex] was perfectly straight to allow for better felling gunsight. We know that a regular bar makes a curved cut , not perfect for notches, right? Now lets expand on this, when the notches apex and the backcut are straight that would also make the hingewood more straight and uniform. Would this not make the hinge stronger and more stable?

Willard:cheers:
 
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Anudder reason I like my longer GB bars better than Stihl is that they are less oval (narrower in the middle). Oddly I learned to compensate for the oval bars and cut stright wedgies pretty early on. But I tend to cut from the top of the bar down, and lower the saw down as I go, unless I am dawged in and leveraging on it hard (I tend to only do that when bucking though).
 
Years back when Cannon [now WoodLand Pro] bar company out of Langley B.C was a small shop, I could just phone them and they would make me one bar built the way I wanted[timber sports, carving].

You still can. Woodland Pro bars are rebadged Cannons, but Cannon hasn't "become" Woodland Pro, Bailey's just has a contract with them. http://www.cannonbar.com/

Ian
 
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