661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Same performance - maul head's 661 running 40:1 H1R ran neck and neck with mitch's ported 661 running 32:1 ultra.

Same protection - i posted pictures of my 661 which had only run on H1R at 42:1 (leaner than 40:1!) and everyone said it looked fine so far...neeed more time but looked completely fine so far. Furthermore no one had any protection issues with h1r before I posted this test and bwalker showed up.


So obviously since H1R produced these results at 40-42:1. Then it "inhibits combustion" ...no scientific reasoning why. Just it does and it's crap and garbage...don't question me.


Not the logical reasoning... that the other oil has solvents in it, which isn't actual oil or less quality and you need to pour more of it 32:1 to get the same effect as H1R at 40-42:1?


See brad ...I'm not making assumptions. Because 1. the logic and evidence is there to support what im saying. 2. there is no science given behind walker's inhibits combustion. he's just trolling it up as usual.


If you want to believe him, that's your business and if you need more evidence then conduct the test yourself. Run 800 at 24:1 32:1 40:1 hell do 16:1... bwalker says it's ok! Let me/us know how that works out for ya.
 
Other oils which font have solvents don't do this...
But some of the better oils have solvents, like Maxima K2. Because oils that use PIB'S in their blends, IE the latest technology oils like K2 need solvents because PIB is really thick. Oils like 2R and K2 would be much thicker than a old tech straight ester oil like h1r with their solvents not present.
The newest tech oils and just about all those carrying the latest certs have solvents. SOLVENTS ARE NOT AN ISSUE...
 
I didn't say they were an ISSUE. I said they took up volume of the bottle and thus affect mix ratio...how much actual oil you get in your gas when you dump said bottle of oil with solvents into it.
 
I didn't say they were an ISSUE. I said they took up volume of the bottle and thus affect mix ratio...how much actual oil you get in your gas when you dump said bottle of oil with solvents into it.
Forget about em..the petrol engineers who formulated them know much more than you!
And they don't effect mix ratio like your suggesting at all.
 
This thread is gonna go on forever, no end in sight and still nothing will be proven.[emoji1]

If you took all the oils that are formulated for all the parameters that are important to chainsaw users and spent tens of thousands of hours testing them, you would find that some new oil just came out that you now need to test. I think that you would also find that there is not a substantial difference in the well formulated oils. There is probably some boutique oil that is somewhat better for your purposes. Whether it is worth it for your purposes is up to you.
 
Interesting!

So no one anywhere is winning any race with H1R?
Sadly, not many races involve two.strokes anymore. Mx racing has went almost exclusively 4 stroke. Karts are still running two.strokes and I have never seen H1R used. Snowmobiles running pre mix are rare, but of those that DO I have never seen H1R being used. And on and on. H1R's hay day was back in the 90's and it sucked then too..
 
gawd your such a little troll... I can't believe you've convinced Brad and likely others, that it H1R inhibits combustion with out providing some sort of scientific reasoning.


So let's just be clear...

So if H1R provided the same protection and the same performance at 40:1 as another oil at 32:1, THEREFORE some how H1R inhibits combustion?

Not that it is purer (more actual oil in the bottle) and you need to pour less h1r to do the same job... like I say?
I don't see how the more oil in it slows down the piston so much. I've ran 25:1 milling with klotz R50 and original and didn't see near the tune change that H1R does.

Not sure it's inhibiting combustion but it does something to slow the saws down and use more fuel. The last part to me was the biggest problem on some saws like a ported 660 with the smaller jet. 2 turns out and still hitting 14k.
 
Well, as I said before, technology is constantly evolving. Otherwise we would still be using 30 weight non detergent mineral oil at 16 to 1. I believe I still have some out in the barn.
 
If you took all the oils that are formulated for all the parameters that are important to chainsaw users and spent tens of thousands of hours testing them, you would find that some new oil just came out that you now need to test. I think that you would also find that there is not a substantial difference in the well formulated oils. There is probably some boutique oil that is somewhat better for your purposes. Whether it is worth it for your purposes is up to you.
The average guy on this site woukd be well served using a OEM oil or one thats actually JASO FC/FD and or ISO EGD certified like Citgo Air Cooled or the like. Honestly most of the saws you see pics of here are garage queens anyways and yoh will never see any differance in a saw that's rarely run.
 
I don't see how the more oil in it slows down the piston so much. I've ran 25:1 milling with klotz R50 and original and didn't see near the tune change that H1R does.

Not sure it's inhibiting combustion but it does something to slow the saws down and use more fuel. The last part to me was the biggest problem on some saws like a ported 660 with the smaller jet. 2 turns out and still hitting 14k.
It doesnt. Redcull is guessing again and it's no supprise he's wrong..
 
gawd your such a little troll... I can't believe you've convinced Brad and likely others, that it H1R inhibits combustion with out providing some sort of scientific reasoning.
Seriously? No one has proven that H1-R inhibit combustion, just like you haven't proven it's simply too thick. And just for the record, I'm looking at the evidence not people's options.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top