Help With Port Timing

[troutfisher]

Looks good! Probably the hardest part, but where the most gains are made.

Thanks. Welding sheet metal is a Bi:censored:h

 

[troutfisher]

You're kind of a little guy huh? LOL

Was that a gas or alky race? Win or lose, it looked like fun.

That wasn't me running it. I did the saw for a friend for a case of beer.

 

[brncreeper]

Thanks. Welding sheet metal is a Bi:censored:h

I know.
If you got one those fancy programs that print flat muffler patterns, would you do one for an 084 and send it to me?

 

[troutfisher]

I know.
If you got one those fancy programs that print flat muffler patterns, would you do one for an 084 and send it to me?

Sorry, I don't have any computer programs for building pipes. I use formulas that Timberwolf posted. And Here we are back at square 1! you need rpm, TIMING NUMBERS, and some other stuff to plug in! Guess we do need that degree wheel..............

 

[Metals406]

That wasn't me running it. I did the saw for a friend for a case of beer.

Hahaha, well shoot! You have to be the cheapest builder out there, for a case of beer and all. LOL

I feel like making you a special beer/price list for saw mods LOL
:jester:

 

[scotclayshooter]

Thanks. Welding sheet metal is a Bi:censored:h

What thickness?
Ive welded many many old Fords so thin sheet metal seems easy now!
I always intend to just stitch the patch on but usually end up doing the whole thing lol
Hell my wee MIG is 100AMPs max! with no fan and is 21 years old and spends most of its life at 35 AMPs pushing .6mm thats when a #8 shade comes in handy.

 

[troutfisher]

What thickness?
Ive welded many many old Fords so thin sheet metal seems easy now!
I always intend to just stitch the patch on but usually end up doing the whole thing lol
Hell my wee MIG is 100AMPs max! with no fan and is 21 years old and spends most of its life at 35 AMPs pushing .6mm thats when a #8 shade comes in handy.

I think it's 22 or 24 guage. I tried using the MIG, had problems with cracking. The last two I used steel filler rod and a torch. It worked good, I think the torch kind of anneals the metal, softens it so it doesn't want to crack so much. I don't have a TIG, that may be the best method.

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

Forearms for power strokes...OOOOOOOOH!

a 046 on Alky. I never could get the alky stuff figured out. It's back on gas now.

http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w195/Troutfisher_photo/?action=view&current=046alky005.flv

THE SEMI

That tube rocks brother! The way you have it like a semi trucks's exhaust pointing up is trick. Looks gnarly. Sounds GNARLY.

Nice workmanship.

Although, I would never put up my work against THE DOCTOR'S
That hombre is one baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad metals dude.

I see we have quite a handfull of metal workers at the AS Saloon. :biggrinbounce2:

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

Dang, I couldn't rep you again...someone fix the system man!!

 

[troutfisher]

THE SEMI

That tube rocks brother! The way you have it like a semi trucks's exhaust pointing up is trick. Looks gnarly. Sounds GNARLY.

That saw's a joke. Doesn't even have a head. Maybe we can get someone to post up some videos of some real race saws. C'mon Chopwood, T-wolf, Ccicora, Romeo, lets see some HORSEPOWER!!!!:rocker:

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

That saw's a joke. Doesn't even have a head. Maybe we can get someone to post up some videos of some real race saws. C'mon Chopwood, T-wolf, Ccicora, Romeo, lets see some HORSEPOWER!!!!:rocker:

Then that must mean my lil' ol 510 must be a bad joke:greenchainsaw:

 

[troutfisher]

Depends on what you're doing with it. If you're gonna race it, probably. If you're cutting firewood then no. I have several stock saws for cutting firewood & carving. If you want to see who can cut 5 cords of wood first you'll beat any hotsaw out there!

 

[youngs24]

Here, you're saying he doesn't know how to setup to degree a saw, and you expect him to answer your questions for "proof". = RUDE



Here, you shout like an idiot. = RUDE


Here, you're being facetious... Trying to draw him out. = RUDE



Try the whole time buck-o.

if asking questions directly torward someone is being rude well then im being rude but really you are the only one being rude in this case you are the one trying to answer for someone else so why dont you stay out of it i did ask you the questions only brad

troy:monkey:

 

[blsnelling]

So you're asking me how I came up with the numbers in this thread? LINK. Yeah, I know what you're really up to. I just thought I show that you actaully have no interest in if I know how to measure port timing or a simple search would have answered that.

 

[troutfisher]

brad all i want is a answer you are the one that always says its good to help every one so why cant you answer my questions so i can learn

troy

What saw are you working on? If it's a new saw that's worth some $$ you might not want to try your first port job on it. I'd send it out to Blsnelling, and find a cheap used saw for your first attempt.

 

[youngs24]

What saw are you working on? If it's a new saw that's worth some $$ you might not want to try your first port job on it. I'd send it out to Blsnelling, and find a cheap used saw for your first attempt.

from what ive seen i will stick with just a muffler modd thats all for me i have two much money in my saws as for saws well i have
stihl
1-250
2-260
3-361
2-440
1-441
3-460
1-660
1-131 pole saw
1-420 cut off saw
1-hs41 i think is the number water pump
dolmar
1-7900
1-5100
husqvarna
1-346
2-181
1-2100
mac some where around 40 of them only 8-10 will run the rest are part saws

as far as what im working om is a cheap $10 special polaun from a yard sale so when it want run i want be out of nothing lol

troy

 

[PES+]

Whelp......

That is a bit more than "slight"


Maybe Jacob can explain to me how the bottom of a widened port has much appreciable effect on blowdown.

I am brain challenged most days but I am missing something here...

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

This one defied the odds and the logic...

I had a feeling this was going to happen...

I modded the stock muffler but didn't get as crazy on the size of the hole as the 5100 mod. I also took off the heat deflector and capped the back. So I'm tripping out on the pinging sound as I was pulling on the starter rope 1/4 of the ways. I must have done it like 4 times. When I thought to myself, let me give it a good pull to see what happens...(I drained all the fuel but did not run saw on idle to drain fuel lines last time I ran it...oooops):jawdrop: It sounded like a pist off mountain lion. It popped crazy on the choke like the 5100 modded muff.

I think the 5100 mod muff was too much and the stock muffler was choking it. I think this 3rd bowl of porridge was juuuuuust right fellas. Don't have the slightest clue why this crazy hog job on the porting left this saw happy...

Hope to have some video for you folks by this weekend. The end of the week is buisy for me

 

[parrisw]

LOOK at all those shiney red dots. Very nice.

 

[Sugar Rush]

Learning Port timing

I have learned a lot from this post. I want to thank Metals406 for the degree wheel . I also learned a more accurate way to measure the timing by using the degree wheel. I was worried about how I would keep the timing the same if I lowered my jug to gain more compression. I thought I could measure the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the exhaust port before I lowered my jug and make the proper adjustments with my port job after I lowered my jug. Then it hit me, "how am I going to get a caliper in the jug to measure?" Using a degree wheel is definitely the way to go. :wave:
I was wondering, if I was to change my timing which way would I go to get more tork out of my work saw? How many degrees would I go?
I presuming that I would have to lower my ports to get the most out of my combustion stroke but, how many degrees from TDC to the top of the Exhaust port would be optimal for maximum tork?
Have a good day/night :biggrinbounce2: