Homelite Chainsaws

[1375619cm3]

Homelite XL-903

Hi there guys i have acquired a homelite xl 903 today and was wondering if anyone has a ipl for it along with any other manuals out there.
thanks in advance ,

cody

email- [email protected]

 

[watsonr]

this should go to the top of the page in the beg for manuals thread.

 

[1375619cm3]

this should go to the top of the page in the beg for manuals thread.

i put it in there as well was just hoping to put where someone appreciated the saw that's all look forward to any help available.

thanks,
cody

 

[hazmat5760]

I bought them site unseen and new I was taking a risk and finally got burned a little.

The bars pictured though were on the saws and range in lenght overall from 27" to 18" and the chain is carlton non-safety and like new. They have very few sharpenings on them.

Did/does Oregon make these bars.......wonder if any good. The bars themselves have very little wear at all. The two smaller bars have almost no wear that I can see.
.

If that longest bar will fit a Super XL Auto, and you want to sell it, let me know please.

 

[struggle]

If that longest bar will fit a Super XL Auto, and you want to sell it, let me know please.

You read my mind as I have a Super XL that is waiting for a new piston that I thought I might put it on if it fits.

 

[BAMFHICK]

Throttle Issues??

Just picked up a homelite 360 i believe cant remember the number of the saw off hand pretty sure its a 360. Anyways i got it for free from my grandpa told me if i could get it running i could have it. well i got it running but as soon as i start it in "runs away". it goes to wide open throttle and will not idle or slow down at all. What could cause this? i have never worked on a saw like this or any homelites for that matter only saw i have ever worked on is a 024 stihl. any help would be much appreciated wanna start cutting!!!

 

[lesorubcheek]

Just picked up a homelite 360 i believe cant remember the number of the saw off hand pretty sure its a 360. Anyways i got it for free from my grandpa told me if i could get it running i could have it. well i got it running but as soon as i start it in "runs away". it goes to wide open throttle and will not idle or slow down at all. What could cause this? i have never worked on a saw like this or any homelites for that matter only saw i have ever worked on is a 024 stihl. any help would be much appreciated wanna start cutting!!!

Got yourself a nice saw! Most probably, its the intake boot that connects the carb to the manifold. Remove the carb and the rubber tube underneath that connects down to the cylinder is the boot. At this point you may be able to see a crack or split. To change the boot, remove the carb, the two bolts under the carb that attach to the upper plate the boot connects with, handle bar, lower brace, and take out the 4 anti-vibe retaining bolts. The rear handle/tank assembly will then seperate from the engine assembly. The boot has a garter spring on the bottom and slips inside the plate at the top. The impulse line is also running though the plate. I always seem to forget to reconnect that sucker.

Best of luck,
Dan

 

[Ambull]

Got yourself a nice saw! Most probably, its the intake boot that connects the carb to the manifold. Remove the carb and the rubber tube underneath that connects down to the cylinder is the boot. At this point you may be able to see a crack or split. To change the boot, remove the carb, the two bolts under the carb that attach to the upper plate the boot connects with, handle bar, lower brace, and take out the 4 anti-vibe retaining bolts. The rear handle/tank assembly will then seperate from the engine assembly. The boot has a garter spring on the bottom and slips inside the plate at the top. The impulse line is also running though the plate. I always seem to forget to reconnect that sucker.

Best of luck,
Dan

Yep!!!! Intake boot. I forgot the impulse line as well when I did mine. Also, when you have it this far apart, you should take off the back plate and the muffler. Then you can check the cylinder for scoring, and check the condition of the muffler. A trick I learned from Spike60 is to pour some Seafoam fuel additive down into the crankcase and let it soak for a couple of days. This will free up the rings and improve compression.

Be sure to put it all back together in the reverse order of how you took it apart. If the muffler is rusted, you should clean it up and put a coat of high temp black paint on it before reassembly. Best of luck!!

 

[BAMFHICK]

Thanks Guys i appreciate it i will get to working on it hopefully today and post on my results

 

[Rowan]

Just a heads up

I posted in the "I found it on Craigs list/ebay" thread about a guy who has an old Homey and a couple of old Pioneer's for sale....

I don't know the guy personaly but I used to work with his brother.... if he's anything like his brother, he's a hard working farmer who takes the time to look after things the way they should.

I'm just not up for more saws at the moment.... I have no idea what these things are worth. He wants 325 CDN for the lot.

Cheers.

 

[bergman 501]

here is a pic of the old original EZ-------and some old yellow thing (keeps trying to get in the pic)--something about my bar is bigger than yours :msp_biggrin:

 

[dieselsmoke]

here is a pic of the old original EZ-------and some old yellow thing (keeps trying to get in the pic)--something about my bar is bigger than yours :msp_biggrin:

Damn!!! that's a NICE looking old Mcculloch!! Is that factory paint? Or has it been redone? Nice pic also.

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

here is a pic of the old original EZ-------and some old yellow thing (keeps trying to get in the pic)--something about my bar is bigger than yours :msp_biggrin:

Hey... Your chain is backwards I do it all the time dont worry.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Hey... Your chain is backwards I do it all the time dont worry.

nah! he took the picture of the saw in a mirror.

 

[67L36Driver]

I told ya! LOL I could poke my finger through to the tank there She'll make some good parts for what you need though
Oh yea and Guess what I just got another XL-101 today lol for 10 bucks. Seems not to be getting any spark, will the coils on this and the XL12 fit up with each other? :cool2:

Just my pinky would go in the holes. The cylinder, piston w/rings and crank assembly will be entirely serviceable. The crankcase/fuel tank from the North Carolina saw will supply the foundation of my next attempt.

I don't know if an XL-12 coil would work, the flywheel is larger on a '12'. I now have a couple extra coils for the 100 series (Duh!) so if you want one just let me know. I think I still have your address here somewhere.
Carl.

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

Just my pinky would go in the holes. The cylinder, piston w/rings and crank assembly will be entirely serviceable. The crankcase/fuel tank from the North Carolina saw will supply the foundation of my next attempt.

I don't know if an XL-12 coil would work, the flywheel is larger on a '12'. I now have a couple extra coils for the 100 series (Duh!) so if you want one just let me know. I think I still have your address here somewhere.
Carl.

Ok Ill be digging into it probably tomorrow But Im not sure if i can get the Recoil cover off to save my life
Was Homelite really stupid enough to put straight flat head screws on there? lol

 

[67L36Driver]

Ok Ill be digging into it probably tomorrow But Im not sure if i can get the Recoil cover off to save my life
Was Homelite really stupid enough to put straight flat head screws on there? lol

Drilled off the head on one yesterday. Drilled off the heads of the five phillips screws that hold the 'magneto backplate' (crankcase cover) on the one you sent me today.

I changed the recoil cover and handle screws to #8-32 x 1/2" hex socket button head. Easier to live with.

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

Drilled off the head on one yesterday. Drilled off the heads of the five phillips screws that hold the 'magneto backplate' (crankcase cover) on the one you sent me today.

I changed the recoil cover and handle screws to #8-32 x 1/2" hex socket button head. Easier to live with.

What size drill-bit did you use Carl?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The standard chain (and spur sprocket) on a C5 was .404. 3/8" spur sprockets for these saws would be quite uncommon. 7/16" spurs pop up too. .404 spur sprockets (used and NOS) are easy to find. I recomend you get a rim-drive drum for the saw. Then you can run whichever pitch you choose. All chains except that 3/8" bind on the bar? Maybe you have a .058G or .050G bar on the saw, and the other chains you're trying to run on it are .063G (or .058G if the bar is .050G). Nothing wrong with running 3/8" .050G chain on that saw (if that's what fits and works). Look at Randy's 600D. I run .404/.063G chain on all of my large frame Homelites (except the 1/2" pitch gear drive 1130G), but that's just because all of my large frame Homelite bars are .063G.

I stayed out in the garage tonight until 11 pm to find out really what was the problem with this saw and I think now I've found out. According to Acres site a 7/16 came out on this saw and I just happened to have a piece of that and threw it on and of course it got in a bind when I tightened it down. I then took the chain guides off and tried again and the chain goes around just fine. I tried bending the guides out of the way of the chain but didn't do too good a job, they still rubbed on the chain so I decided to run it without the guides and running the chain a little more snug so it won't slip off. I may run it tomorrow when I get done mowing the yard and see if the chain will stay on. If it won't I guess I'll try bending the guides some more.

 

[67L36Driver]

What size drill-bit did you use Carl?

I used a small grinding stone in my variable speed drill motor and ground the slot away so I could start a drill bit. 5/32" will work but you got to get it centered so you don't drill away any of the cover.