Homelite Chainsaws

[a. palmer jr.]

The wife is away for the weekend so got a chance to fiddle with a few Homelites. First was a Super 1050 which needed a fuel system service, as I had not had it running since I got hold of it a while ago. I love these 1050 saws - they are a compact machine, not too heavy, and a decent amount of grunt for a vintage unit. I had the carb kit ready - she is running the SDC carb with the fixed High speed, but runs - as you boys in the US put it 'like a top'.

The second Homelite on the bench today, and still there is a Homelite 909G which needed a new HT lead. I managed to get her stripped down to the point where I could replace the lead, but did not have any epoxy left to secure the lead on the coil. The lead is all ready to roll though, so should have the beast back together tomorrow.

On another note - going to a rainforest region tomorrow with my Dad (its fathers day) to check out some big old Red Cedar trees. There are not too many old growth cedars around as these were heavily logged during the pioneer days. They didn't call it 'red gold' for nothing. I will try and get some good photo's to post over the next couple of days.

Chris.

Chris, how did you put the lead into the coil? On my C5 it appears to be not of the screw-in type. Maybe I just didn't look hard enough.

 

[CM76]

Chris, how did you put the lead into the coil? On my C5 it appears to be not of the screw-in type. Maybe I just didn't look hard enough.

I remove the old lead in the usual way - broke the exisiting epoxy at the coil and twisted the old lead out of the coil. I then cleaned up the coil itself with some electrical component solvent prior to the insertion of the new lead.

The Repco coil has a pin whereby you insert the new lead using a turning action (as if you are screwing the lead into the coil) and secure it in place with an epoxy or glue. The pins seems to seat pretty accurately in the lead when using this method, and I assume that this is the way the factory assembled the ignition.

Hope this helps.

Chris.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I remove the old lead in the usual way - broke the exisiting epoxy at the coil and twisted the old lead out of the coil. I then cleaned up the coil itself with some electrical component solvent prior to the insertion of the new lead.

The Repco coil has a pin whereby you insert the new lead using a turning action (as if you are screwing the lead into the coil) and secure it in place with an epoxy or glue. The pins seems to seat pretty accurately in the lead when using this method, and I assume that this is the way the factory assembled the ignition.

Hope this helps.

Chris.

Yes, it helps. I've unscrewed the plug wire from the coil on other saws like Stihl, but the C5 looked different, like it was built in. I have an old coil here, I might try taking the wire out of it first.

 

[67L36Driver]

Bar on the C5.

Bar is marked 7785 VY, 200---D196, OREGON, sprocket nose. So it's not a large frame bar. I'll have to check the 20" hard nose Windsor bar on my blue/white XL-12 to see if it would be better suited.

120 psi is on the low end of my comfort zone. I like to see 140+.

Still waiting on an XL-101 from Georgia.

I'm lining up wintertime projects. Beats the poo-poo out of daytime TV.

Edit: The Windsor bar is no help. Windsor, 1707, 6068, 20 UXL 50. Not correct mount.

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

Bar is marked 7785 VY, 200---D196, OREGON, sprocket nose. So it's not a large frame bar. I'll have to check the 20" hard nose Windsor bar on my blue/white XL-12 to see if it would be better suited.

120 psi is on the low end of my comfort zone. I like to see 140+.

Still waiting on an XL-101 from Georgia.

I'm lining up wintertime projects. Beats the poo-poo out of daytime TV.

Dang Karl, I have a good set of a used rings for a C5 But there back in Hannibal
I might be around there sometime next week?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Bar is marked 7785 VY, 200---D196, OREGON, sprocket nose. So it's not a large frame bar. I'll have to check the 20" hard nose Windsor bar on my blue/white XL-12 to see if it would be better suited.

120 psi is on the low end of my comfort zone. I like to see 140+.

Still waiting on an XL-101 from Georgia.

I'm lining up wintertime projects. Beats the poo-poo out of daytime TV.

Just remember, that C5 probably hasn't been run lately and it might come up in compression with a little use. It's nice to think that, anyway. I wouldn't tear it down just yet.

 

[67L36Driver]

Dang Karl, I have a good set of a used rings for a C5 But there back in Hannibal
I might be around there sometime next week?

Too early to get excited. The 'Greek' may have the right size on evilbay. I'll likely try the notched rings anyhow for more compression. Can't beat 'em for fifteen bucks. Get into 'D' handle territory.

The fuel tank to carb line is hard as a rock. The handle/carb box has to come off. Correct?

A. Palmer Jr.: How about a length of solid core spark plug wire? I have the remains of a reel of Standard Ign. Products.

Blow up your T.V..

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Too early to get excited. The 'Greek' may have the right size on evilbay. I'll likely try the notched rings anyhow for more compression. Can't beat 'em for fifteen bucks. Get into 'D' handle territory.

The fuel tank to carb line is hard as a rock. The handle/carb box has to come off. Correct?

A. Palmer Jr.: How about a length of solid core spark plug wire? I have the remains of a reel of Standard Ign. Products.

Blow up your T.V..

might be worth a try. I'm working on some other stuff right now (at my wife's request) but I'll surely get back to saws before winter. Joe

 

[67L36Driver]

Fuel tank bypass.

Instead of filling the fuel tank, which needs cleaning, I came up with a more direct feed to the carb.
View attachment 197612

View attachment 197613

A dribble down the carb throat and a 1/3 pill bottle in the funnel and we are off and running.

Saves pulling your arm off working fuel uphill to the carb.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Instead of filling the fuel tank, which needs cleaning, I came up with a more direct feed to the carb.
View attachment 197612

View attachment 197613

A dribble down the carb throat and a 1/3 pill bottle in the funnel and we are off and running.

Saves pulling your arm off working fuel uphill to the carb.

Looks like a good trick. My fuel tank cover wasn't too hard to pull off, I took it off to change fuel lines and get some junk out of the tank. I sealed it up with Moto Seal after I was done and it hasn't leaked a drop.

 

[67L36Driver]

Postman dropped the other 'shoe'.

This was in Florida two days ago. I am going to revise my opinion of our USPS.
View attachment 197620

View attachment 197621

Really sad looking 101 isn't it.

 

[thomas1]

New to me 550. $.30 a cc

Does this saw make my hand look small? :jester:

 

[a. palmer jr.]

This was in Florida two days ago. I am going to revise my opinion of our USPS.
View attachment 197620

View attachment 197621

Really sad looking 101 isn't it.

Not really, just looks like it could use a coat of paint. Structurally it looks pretty solid..

I never could figure out why they put a green top bar on a blue or red saw..black would have been better.

 

[Eccentric]

Bar is marked 7785 VY, 200---D196, OREGON, sprocket nose. So it's not a large frame bar. I'll have to check the 20" hard nose Windsor bar on my blue/white XL-12 to see if it would be better suited.

120 psi is on the low end of my comfort zone. I like to see 140+.

Still waiting on an XL-101 from Georgia.

I'm lining up wintertime projects. Beats the poo-poo out of daytime TV.

Edit: The Windsor bar is no help. Windsor, 1707, 6068, 20 UXL 50. Not correct mount.

I'm not surprised that the Windsor bar on your XL12 was the wrong one for the C5. The UXL bar is what's supposed to be on the XL12.

Finding a 24" or shorter large frame Homelite bar won't be expensive or hard. Get much longer, and they get expensive...

As has been stated, don't worry about 120psi on an engine that's been sitting for a while. Heck, I've never seen a C5 blow much more than that anyways. They weren't a high compression saw like the XL76-130 series. It'll run fine, and the numbers will probably come up a bit once the rings get a little 'exercise' again.

Too early to get excited. The 'Greek' may have the right size on evilbay. I'll likely try the notched rings anyhow for more compression. Can't beat 'em for fifteen bucks. Get into 'D' handle territory.

The fuel tank to carb line is hard as a rock. The handle/carb box has to come off. Correct?

A. Palmer Jr.: How about a length of solid core spark plug wire? I have the remains of a reel of Standard Ign. Products.

Blow up your T.V..

You don't need to pull the carb box/handle off to change out the tank-to-carb line Carl. Unbolt the whole tank from the saw chassis. Attach about 16" or so of 3/16" ID automotive fuel line to the nipple on the tank. Start threading it through the pass-thru hole in the carb box. As you move the tank back into place, SLOWLY pull the line through. Make sure you don't pull it tight before the tank is fully seated and mounted. Also, be careful to not pull the line off of the tank nipple. Once the tank's bolted in place again, feed the line over to the carb nipple, cut it to the length you want, and attach it to the carb. The automotive line seems to seal the carb box pass-thru hole well. To change out the inner tank line, you'll have to remove the tank front or unstcrew the fitting in the tank (unless you're more skillful than I am). Be CAREFUL with the tank half screws. They're tiny. Also be careful if you try to unscrew the fitting. Wouldn't want to break it...

 

[sawbones]

Instead of filling the fuel tank, which needs cleaning, I came up with a more direct feed to the carb.
A dribble down the carb throat and a 1/3 pill bottle in the funnel and we are off and running.

Saves pulling your arm off working fuel uphill to the carb.

I start all my saws with the squirt can right into the carb. Even if a saw has a good fuel line and clean gas the diaphrams can be dry.

The higher rpm will sometimes pull the gas through the old dry carb and make them run without having to go through a carb rebuild.


watch this one run

1948 IEL Model AB chainsaw - YouTube

 

[Eccentric]

Anybody here replaced a failed "blue" electronic ignition system in a late production Super E-Z with a nova/atom/etc module and a points coil? I've got a late S E-Z Auto (UT#10505) with a crapped out electronic ignition. As I understand it, the crank in my saw doesn't have the eccentric (LOL) for a points system.

I have a donor points ignition saw. My options seem to be either spending big $$$ (compared to the cost of the whole dang saw) on a 'new' aftermarket or NOS electronic ignition module (meaning a replacement that' the same type as the dead unit)........................or tearing both damn saws down and swapping the crankshaft and all the points ignition stuff from my donor saw into/onto my late S E-Z. A thought occured to me however..............can I run the points coil with an aftermarket 'conversion' module? That would be MUCH less of a PITA than swapping cranks. Guess I need to see if the coils will even swap. That's an easy/quick check........

 

[8433jeff]

Having met you, I would've thought you were much older than that.

Dang kid LOL I got out of school 5 yrs. after you started! LOL

Dear Santa,
I wouldn't start too much on the age thing, after all, there is that whole train set that was promised but never delivered. The Atari system IMHO didn't quite make up for it, and now with interest you owe me big, almost as big as your GTG sleigh big. Saw confiscation is not out of the 166 or 909 (D as in) dollar question.
I am mature for my age, and wise beyond my years, no doubt about that. Humble, not so much. LOL

 

[67L36Driver]

Dear Santa,
I wouldn't start too much on the age thing, after all, there is that whole train set that was promised but never delivered. The Atari system IMHO didn't quite make up for it, and now with interest you owe me big, almost as big as your GTG sleigh big. Saw confiscation is not out of the 166 or 909 (D as in) dollar question.
I am mature for my age, and wise beyond my years, no doubt about that. Humble, not so much. LOL

Hah! I got my train set, but I was just four, in 1948. Prolly my father wanted one if the truth be known. Went and got it back from my cousin when we adopted our first.

American Flyer. Realistic two rail track.

 

[wendell]

Dear Santa,
I wouldn't start too much on the age thing, after all, there is that whole train set that was promised but never delivered. The Atari system IMHO didn't quite make up for it, and now with interest you owe me big, almost as big as your GTG sleigh big. Saw confiscation is not out of the 166 or 909 (D as in) dollar question.
I am mature for my age, and wise beyond my years, no doubt about that. Humble, not so much. LOL

Actually, you were on the naughty list those years so there is no interest involved. The 166 is way more saw than you can handle and the 909D was passed on to a needful collector.

As for your 2nd to last sentence, there are unfortunately too many people on this site who have met you. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Eccentric]

Found some old pics in the computer.