Homelite Chainsaws

[Eccentric]

Mitch is who I got the cyclinder from:msp_thumbsup: I don't think he had a piston.

I see the aftermarket ones on the ebay and there is also an NOS ones for more coin.

Wondering if anyone has any hard run time on the Aftermarket ones?

Don't want to risk buying one to only possilby ruin a new cylinder

That's a tough one. For the small cost increase, I think I'd go with aftermarket. Like you said, I wouldn't want to risk an NOS jug. Check with the chainsawlady. Bet Joyce has something for you.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Picked up a non-op 1050 last week and looking for some info in my quest to bring it back up to operational condition. I took the bar and chain off and noted that the drive sprocket was kind of rattle-ish/loose. How much play and wear on the teeth is considered "normal" !??? What is the recommended clutch/drive sprocket removal process......sure don't want to mess anything up on the first 6 cube saw in my saw stable. I've got some pictures of the 1050 and one that shows the wear on the drive sprocket teeth .

Saw pictures...........can anyone tell me what the manufacture date was of this saw by the S/N in the 4th picture?? Was it common or the 1050 to not come with a falling spike or ?? I'd like to get a OEM one for it......source suggestions?


Also wondering about the blade length...........is it a 32 inch / .063 gauge ??

Congrats on the new addition!
Not sure of the date but it is a later model judging from the starter decal and the hand guard. What carb is on it?
Shouldn't be much play between the clutch drum bearing and the crank. You need just enough endplay so the drum floats between the saw and the clutch. The only time it would rub is at idle when the clutch is not engaged. The sprocket wear is not bad but replacements pop up on ebay. Look for the rim sprocket model if you can find it. I believe that is the 3/4" wide version - replace the 5/8" wide clutch in earlier models.

The clutch is threaded on - I believe left hand. To remove it, you need to lock the piston (piston stop or the rope trick). I made a tool with two pins to engage the holes in the clutch and turn it off. Be careful, the clutch shoes can be costly.

The bar should be .063, sprocket .404. I do recommend a spike to help prevent impact to the front of the fuel tank. There is a short and long tooth version - these also show up on ebay.

Gotta get to work. I'm sure you'll get more responses on this.

 

[67L36Driver]

XPLRN: That sprocket will go a long while yet. Bearing is most likely dry.

Nice project!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Picked up a non-op 1050 last week and looking for some info in my quest to bring it back up to operational condition. I took the bar and chain off and noted that the drive sprocket was kind of rattle-ish/loose. How much play and wear on the teeth is considered "normal" !??? What is the recommended clutch/drive sprocket removal process......sure don't want to mess anything up on the first 6 cube saw in my saw stable. I've got some pictures of the 1050 and one that shows the wear on the drive sprocket teeth .

Saw pictures...........can anyone tell me what the manufacture date was of this saw by the S/N in the 4th picture?? Was it common or the 1050 to not come with a falling spike or ?? I'd like to get a OEM one for it......source suggestions?

Here is the drive sprocket teeth.......does it need to be replaced?? It's kinda rattle-ish/loose so I'm wondering about the condition of the bearing.

Also wondering about the blade length...........is it a 32 inch / .063 gauge ??

That sprocket actually looks pretty good. I wouldn't change it right now. I think it's got a points ignition so that will require attention as will the carb and fuel lines. I would give the saw a good cleaning before starting any serious work.
Nice saw, by the way!

Also, it looks like it was built in 1981. If you want to be more precise, it was built on Line 1, the 247th day of 1981 and it was the 40th saw built that day if I'm reading this chart correctly.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Looks like a C5 spike would fit on it. I went out to the shed to look at my C5 parts saw and it didn't have one on it.

 

[Rudedog]

Also, it looks like it was built in 1981. If you want to be more precise, it was built on Line 1, the 247th day of 1981 and it was the 40th saw built that day if I'm reading this chart correctly.

What chart are you referring to?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

What chart are you referring to?

One I made out of a piece of paper using a #2 pencil. I think I got my info from AS. Here it is. 1st digit=Assembly line, could be number or letter. 2. Year built, could be a letter after 1981. 3. Three letters for calendar day of build. 4. Last numbers represent the order of build. As for the year, 2=1972 and so on until 0 which=1980. 1=1981(could be number or letter) Then C=1981 D=1982 etc. Z=2004. I don't have anything beyond that.

 

[67L36Driver]

What chart are you referring to?

I hijacked this some time back.

View attachment 207567

 

[a. palmer jr.]

View attachment 207567

That's a little neater than the one I scribbled down.

 

[67L36Driver]

That's a little neater than the one I scribbled down.

Right click is your friend. :msp_tongue:

 

[XPLRN]

Responses to my 1050 info quest......

Congrats on the new addition!
Not sure of the date but it is a later model judging from the starter decal and the hand guard. What carb is on it?
Shouldn't be much play between the clutch drum bearing and the crank. You need just enough endplay so the drum floats between the saw and the clutch. The only time it would rub is at idle when the clutch is not engaged. The sprocket wear is not bad but replacements pop up on ebay. Look for the rim sprocket model if you can find it. I believe that is the 3/4" wide version - replace the 5/8" wide clutch in earlier models.

The clutch is threaded on - I believe left hand. To remove it, you need to lock the piston (piston stop or the rope trick). I made a tool with two pins to engage the holes in the clutch and turn it off. Be careful, the clutch shoes can be costly.

The bar should be .063, sprocket .404. I do recommend a spike to help prevent impact to the front of the fuel tank. There is a short and long tooth version - these also show up on ebay.

Gotta get to work. I'm sure you'll get more responses on this.

Thanks for the 1st response to my 1050 info quest. The carb is the Walbro SDC with a black "velocity stack" looking device on the air intake side.......are they decent/fuel well? The air box area under the filter was real clean so I was happy to see that....just need to pick up a new air filter after I get it running.

You and other responders have let me know that I can run the drive sprocket "as is" but I'm thinking that I better take it apart and check out the bearing as it might be dry/damaged?? Thanks for the heads-up on the being careful regarding the clutch shoes and glad to hear that "maybe" i've got the 3/4" shoes.........I'll be measuring it up externally to figure it out.

On the spike my preference would be the short tooth version as I don't want to lose the bar length. I was pleased to see that the front of the saw shows as little wear as it does considering the previous/original?? owner wasn't running a spike.

@ 67L36Driver; Thanks!! I'm thinking it's very dry as loose as it is soo will have to tear into it and figure out what's going on.....is there a way to lube that bearing with out tearing it all apart?? Also a big thanks for the TSB on the production date......I know Mr. Right Click!

XPLRN: That sprocket will go a long while yet. Bearing is most likely dry.

Nice project!

@ a. palmer jr. ; Thanks for the "nice saw" compliment........I just HOPE that the P/C is in decent shape. I need to pull the plug and muffler and try to see what's been going on internally(sure wish I had a borescope). IF it looks as good as the exterior I'll be very happy!! Thanks sooo much for actually making a shed run to look for a spike and providing the first intel on the production date. I'm hoping to find a short spike so as to not loose cutting length........those long spikes are cool looking but guess I don't really need that.

That sprocket actually looks pretty good. I wouldn't change it right now. I think it's got a points ignition so that will require attention as will the carb and fuel lines. I would give the saw a good cleaning before starting any serious work.
Nice saw, by the way! Looks like a C5 spike would fit on it. I went out to the shed to look at my C5 parts saw and it didn't have one on it.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Right click is your friend. :msp_tongue:

I have it saved now. I'm gonna back up a few of my files because I don't trust this old Dell (XP) to keep working forever.

 

[MEATSAW]

There is a Homelite 550 on Craigslist that is in "good working condition" with a 30" bar. There was a couple small pictures and it doesn't look beat up. He's asking $200. Considering I already have a great running XL924, would this be something to pursue? Is there anything newer or better that the 550 would offer?

 

[lesorubcheek]

550s have anti-vibe and on a very very few examples you may find a chain brake. 550s are piston ported where the 924 is a reed valve design. Both are very fine saws, well actually I don't have a 924, but its close to a 925. To be honest, I'll pick up a 925 before a 550, but at the same time, I'd never dream of letting a 550 go either. Based on ebay prices, 200 is a great deal, but don't know if I'd go that high locally unless its in incredibly good shape.

Dan

 

[a. palmer jr.]

550s have anti-vibe and on a very very few examples you may find a chain brake. 550s are piston ported where the 924 is a reed valve design. Both are very fine saws, well actually I don't have a 924, but its close to a 925. To be honest, I'll pick up a 925 before a 550, but at the same time, I'd never dream of letting a 550 go either. Based on ebay prices, 200 is a great deal, but don't know if I'd go that high locally unless its in incredibly good shape.

Dan

How about a VI944, where are they on your list?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Homelite XL not oiling

I've seen so many of these posts that I thought I'd tell you about my little XL that actually OVER oils! I don't know what I did to get it to do that, I put a regular duckbill valve in the oil line in the tank but didn't have the brass sleeve so I used a ball point pen tube instead, put both (only 2 on this one) new oil lines on it plus the thingy on the end of the pick up line. I fired it up and it seems to oil way too much! I'm thinking about inserting something inside the line to make it smaller so it'll oil less, that or venting the cap with a small hole.

 

[lesorubcheek]

How about a VI944, where are they on your list?

Too ugly :msp_razz:... no got one anyway.

Dan

 

[67L36Driver]

a. palmer jr.: Replace the ball point pen tube with the sintered metal tube that is supposed to be in the line with the tank duckbill. The farther apart, duckbill to line, the less oil delivered because of the porus material.

Sorry, can't tell you where to find one, maybe Chainsawlady (Joyce Wilson) has some.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

a. palmer jr.: Replace the ball point pen tube with the sintered metal tube that is supposed to be in the line with the tank duckbill. The farther apart, duckbill to line, the less oil delivered because of the porus material.

Sorry, can't tell you where to find one, maybe Chainsawlady (Joyce Wilson) has some.

I've got one around here someplace-just wanted to let some people know it's possible to get oil out of these things. I had a newer saw that had a BB (not really, but looked like one) with a hole in it, stuck in the line, to limit oil flow, at least one of mine was equipped that way.

 

[struggle]

I've got one around here someplace-just wanted to let some people know it's possible to get oil out of these things. I had a newer saw that had a BB (not really, but looked like one) with a hole in it, stuck in the line, to limit oil flow, at least one of mine was equipped that way.

Yuuup the more you restrict that line the more it will oil.