I guess I could run it with the oil cap a little loose.
Homelite Chainsaws
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I guess I could run it with the oil cap a little loose.
XPLRN
Dad ^^^^ wouldn't understand the CAD!!! :-)
1050 points/condenser to ignition chip/module conversion
What is involved in the replacement of the points/condenser with an ignition chip/module assembly and is it a worthy mod or just stick with the OEM points and condenser(where is a good source??) !?? Will the new ignition chip/module bolt in place where the points/condenser assembly originally mounted or ?? I seem to recollect where someone said mounting the new ignition chip/module external from underneath the flywheel was the way to go.....something to do with magnets in the flywheel IIRC. If by chance anyone has pictures of the swap on a 1050 couid you post them up??
This is the unit I was considering......if anyone has source info on others I'd like to learn about those also before making a decision.
http://store.chainsawr.com/products/mega-fire-ii-universal-ignition-module-conversion-chip-for-replacement-of-points-and-condenser-new-replaces-pn-21119-2161-box-s-0
What is involved in the replacement of the points/condenser with an ignition chip/module assembly and is it a worthy mod or just stick with the OEM points and condenser(where is a good source??) !?? Will the new ignition chip/module bolt in place where the points/condenser assembly originally mounted or ?? I seem to recollect where someone said mounting the new ignition chip/module external from underneath the flywheel was the way to go.....something to do with magnets in the flywheel IIRC. If by chance anyone has pictures of the swap on a 1050 couid you post them up??
This is the unit I was considering......if anyone has source info on others I'd like to learn about those also before making a decision.
http://store.chainsawr.com/products/mega-fire-ii-universal-ignition-module-conversion-chip-for-replacement-of-points-and-condenser-new-replaces-pn-21119-2161-box-s-0
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I think I've only changed one, I put the thing under the flywheel. Plenty of room since you remove the points and condenser. I think the instructions should come with it but mainly you just mount it solidly then connect a couple of wires or so.
XPLRN
Dad ^^^^ wouldn't understand the CAD!!! :-)
Thanks for the info........by chance was that on a 1050 that you performed the change??
No, it was on a Super XLAO. It sure made it start easier. I imagine the 1050 wouldn't be much different.
HeRoze
Addicted to ArboristSite
i am looking into the same thing for a concrete saw I have... not much luck on full instructions, but I did find this, which helps:
XPLRN
Dad ^^^^ wouldn't understand the CAD!!! :-)
i am looking into the same thing for a concrete saw I have... not much luck on full instructions, but I did find this, which helps:
Thanks! Pretty simple directions.....how does one figure out whether your saw is positive or negative ground??
I had an old Ford pickup truck years ago but since then I hadn't heard of anything else that was positive ground.
Wondering why this Homelite sprocket is threaded? Is that what holds it into the drum?
VINTAGE CHAIN SAW SPROCKET HOMELITE 8 TOOTH THREADED | eBay
VINTAGE CHAIN SAW SPROCKET HOMELITE 8 TOOTH THREADED | eBay
Ambull
OCD Muscle Saw Collector
Yeah I have a 55 F100 myself. Last year for 6 volt positive ground. I ended up converting it to 12 volt negative ground. It still has a red ground wire coming off the battery.
C5-7-9 Recoil starter.
I posted this in the Remington thread but here is also a good spot.
While not exactly like the Homelite version they should work.
I posted this in the Remington thread but here is also a good spot.
While not exactly like the Homelite version they should work.
whatscooking
ArboristSite Operative
Help with my Homelite
Hellow, i have a 903 that is almost complete but i have a problem. There is what looks like a check valve in the air box that goes into the fuel tank, it unscrews but looks like it is missing the ball and spring therefore allowing gas to run into the air box when tilting the saw. I went to a saw shop and the 925 parts book kinda showes the hole but nothing screwing into the hole. I dont know how it needs to look, plug the hole and vent the cap or get the check valve fixed, does anyone have any info or part numbers?
Hellow, i have a 903 that is almost complete but i have a problem. There is what looks like a check valve in the air box that goes into the fuel tank, it unscrews but looks like it is missing the ball and spring therefore allowing gas to run into the air box when tilting the saw. I went to a saw shop and the 925 parts book kinda showes the hole but nothing screwing into the hole. I dont know how it needs to look, plug the hole and vent the cap or get the check valve fixed, does anyone have any info or part numbers?
Early XL-101s (and Craftsman/Roper 3.7) used the same fuel tank vent. They have a square non-vented fuel cap. Later models did away with the check valve vent an use a hex shape vented fuel cap. I've looked at some IPLs and can't find a part number.
If it were me, I'd plug the hole and get a later fuel cap. However, I do have a couple extra from my 101 projects and you are welcome to one. Just P.M. your address.
Carl.
whatscooking
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks Carl for looking into this, i will get a cap and a plug, seems like a better fix anyway.
900G and 990G parallel build
I posted this one on another site, but thought it should go in here as well.
I have had these machines stripped down and surveyed for some time now, and thought I would rebuild the two saws in parallel.
The saws are two big Homelite geardrives - a 900G, and a 990G. Both saws were optioned out with the 3.57:1 reduction gear train.
There are some differences between the 900G and the 990G saws, and some of these can be seen in the attached photographs. The 990G gearcase cover allows access to the wrap handle brace inhex screws, whilst the 900G cover does not. This is the reason for fitting the handle brace on the 900G saw prior to assy of the gearcase cover. An easy thing to miss when you have been working with the later model machines.
The 900G saws came with 1/4" cylinder retaining studs, as opposed to the later machines which came with 5/16" studs. The original cylinder on my 900G is u/s, so I have decided to use a good spare cylinder from a 909G that I have. I removed the original 1/4" studs, drilled and tapped the crankcase to accept the new 5/16" studs and fitted those. It is now ready to accept the later type cylinders. I will get the original cylinder relined, and just open up the retaining stud holes to accept the new studs.
The 900G gear train is fitted with an assembled idler gear (gear is assembled with its bearing between two plates) which is mounted on a fixed post and secured with two screws. The later series machines had an idler gear which had its bearing pressed into the gear (secured by a circlip), and mounted on a removable gear post. A lock nut secures the gear to the post.
The bar studs are pressed in and pinned on the later series machines as opposed to the screwed studs on the 900G.
The later series crankshafts were heavier across the web than the earlier designed cranks as well.
Here are some photos of the build so far. I used up some NOS screws for the gearcase cover (thankyou Joyce!!), as I thought they would look good. I need to prep a few more of the parts for reassembly, so it will be a little while before I return to the thread with more progress.
Regards,
Chris.
Here is a pic of the 990G geartrain assembly:
Comparison of early and later series crankshafts - the upper crankshaft belongs to the 990G:
The completed gearcase of the 990G:
990G and 900G gearcases complete with cranks installed:
Difference shown between the early cylinder retaining studs and the later units which are fitted with 5/16 studs:
I posted this one on another site, but thought it should go in here as well.
I have had these machines stripped down and surveyed for some time now, and thought I would rebuild the two saws in parallel.
The saws are two big Homelite geardrives - a 900G, and a 990G. Both saws were optioned out with the 3.57:1 reduction gear train.
There are some differences between the 900G and the 990G saws, and some of these can be seen in the attached photographs. The 990G gearcase cover allows access to the wrap handle brace inhex screws, whilst the 900G cover does not. This is the reason for fitting the handle brace on the 900G saw prior to assy of the gearcase cover. An easy thing to miss when you have been working with the later model machines.
The 900G saws came with 1/4" cylinder retaining studs, as opposed to the later machines which came with 5/16" studs. The original cylinder on my 900G is u/s, so I have decided to use a good spare cylinder from a 909G that I have. I removed the original 1/4" studs, drilled and tapped the crankcase to accept the new 5/16" studs and fitted those. It is now ready to accept the later type cylinders. I will get the original cylinder relined, and just open up the retaining stud holes to accept the new studs.
The 900G gear train is fitted with an assembled idler gear (gear is assembled with its bearing between two plates) which is mounted on a fixed post and secured with two screws. The later series machines had an idler gear which had its bearing pressed into the gear (secured by a circlip), and mounted on a removable gear post. A lock nut secures the gear to the post.
The bar studs are pressed in and pinned on the later series machines as opposed to the screwed studs on the 900G.
The later series crankshafts were heavier across the web than the earlier designed cranks as well.
Here are some photos of the build so far. I used up some NOS screws for the gearcase cover (thankyou Joyce!!), as I thought they would look good. I need to prep a few more of the parts for reassembly, so it will be a little while before I return to the thread with more progress.
Regards,
Chris.
Here is a pic of the 990G geartrain assembly:
Comparison of early and later series crankshafts - the upper crankshaft belongs to the 990G:
The completed gearcase of the 990G:
990G and 900G gearcases complete with cranks installed:
Difference shown between the early cylinder retaining studs and the later units which are fitted with 5/16 studs:
Mr. Bow Saw
Addicted to ArboristSite
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
It is almost embarrassing to follow the 990G and 900G with this but I guess I will. Picked this up today, shows promise to be an actual runner.
What is the scoop on these as I have never owned a Homelite this young.
What is the scoop on these as I have never owned a Homelite this young.
Jordan3605
ArboristSite Operative
Not a Chainsaw but could be converted.
Just got this DM-54
Anyone have any info (cc's,years made,etc.)
Hope you like it
View attachment 208890View attachment 208891
Just got this DM-54
Anyone have any info (cc's,years made,etc.)
Hope you like it
View attachment 208890View attachment 208891
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I believe that saw is based on the 540 chainsaw. Don't bother converting it to a chainsaw. You're better off selling it if you don't want a demo saw, then buying a chainsaw. I have a friend who has one of those. He calls it his "church key". LMK if you decide to part with it...
Here's the 540 Chainsaw listing on Acres' site. You can see the resemblance...
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...21c00cc39e9acec288256c2600147da5?OpenDocument
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