RandyMac
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Offer another dollar, to keep the minimac.
Homelite Chainsaws
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Offer another dollar, to keep the minimac.
Steve NW WI
Unwanted Riff Raff.
Found that I've got a bunch of fuel caps with the dime valves, all but one the rubber has turned to goo in. Kinda ticked at this point, as I've got 2 runners and only one good gas cap between em. I went so far as to check all my other saws to see what might fit, a 10-10 cap almost works, but the threads are recessed, the cap off my 7300 Dolmar has a slightly different pitch but is dang close otherwise (although not vented either...)
What commonly available caps work on the C/XP saws and use the easy to find duckbill? At this point, I care a whole lot less about being original than I do about functional. My saws ain't museum pieces, they're just fun old toys to play with now and then.
Sorry I couldn't help more Jerry, If anyone has a good "dime" valve to put in it, I can send ya one of those caps,
Edit: I see Chainsawr has a couple different styles of cap listed for the C series. Is there any functional difference between em?
http://store.chainsawr.com/products/homelite-c-series-chainsaw-fuel-cap
http://store.chainsawr.com/products/copy-of-homelite-c-series-chainsaw-fuel-cap
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
That first one looks unvented. Not sure about the second one, as there's no 'underside' pic of it. An unvented cap won't work.
There are spendy new caps on feebay. They're the 'bronze filter' type that take the 69451 duckbill.
Homelite Super 1050, 1130G Gas Cap, Part # A-65741-A | eBay
genuine HOMELITE 65741 64140 gas fuel cap S1050A C5 C7 C9 C51 71 91 72 chain saw | eBay
This is the type that you want to find used, as you can easily replace the duckbill. The 'filter' easlily twists/pulls out, and presses back in once you clean it out and put a new duckbill in. I have a couple of these that are missing the bronze 'filters'. Somebody here said that Joyce (Chainsawlady) has some of those. I need to contact her about getting three or four of those filters....
If your 'dime' type caps have a center hole with a recess in it (like some of the caps I pictured in my earlier cap writeup), then you can probably put a 'filter' and duckbill in those in place of the NLA 'dime' valve. Might be able to drill one of the 'dime' caps that doesn't have a recess. Then you could use the 'filter' and duckbill combination. Not sure how well the bakelite caps would take to that. I have some 'dime' caps that don't have the recess, but are plastic instead of bakelite. May try drilling one of those as an experiment. It's a useless cap right now anyways......
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The cap on the far left is a 'dime' type that also has the recess in the center hole for the bronze 'filter'.
Chainsawlady has the sintered bronze filter and duckbills for the red and the black hex fuel caps. The hex cap is common on XL-12, SXL, XL-800 and XL-101 types.
I did a R&R on five of them some time ago.
I did a R&R on five of them some time ago.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Carl the bronze filter I'm talking about here is not the little bugger that's used in the hex caps. Look at the pic in one of the feebay listings I posted above. The filter is wider and longer, and is hollow. The 69451 duckbill fits inside of it. Some of these caps had a bronze tube in place of the filter. The duckbill fits inside this tube, and you can see it peeking out of said tube (when it's not melted). Those tubes are a bastard to get out of the caps (unlike the filters) however.
22.39 usd..................................yikes!!............................................o.m.g.
My first C5 was $14.99 on fleabay.
My first C5 was $14.99 on fleabay.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I know. That's why I havent' bought any. NOS 10-series Mac caps are even worse.................and you can't easily replace the duckbills in them (or even get the right duckbill). My second C-5 (which I still have, and which was my Avatar pic for years) is cherry, and cost me all of $19.95 or so plus $20 shipping back in 2007....
man, you guys are depressing. one last question (last hope). the tank doesn't have a vent (its a replacement but neither did the original tank) so is it possible that because my solid cap doesn't have an o-ring or cork gasket that the tank vented through the threads?
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
It's possible. Never seen a cap like yours on a C-series saw before. The cap that was on your tank (if it's the one I sent you) was a 'dime' valve type, but was broken and unuseable.
Wait a minute...............I don't think I sent you a tank. That was another guy. I sent you something........but I can't remember what it was. I know you sent me a Mac carb. I was sending parts to many different AS members at that time.
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watsonr
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It's possible. Never seen a cap like yours on a C-series saw before. The cap that was on your tank (if it's the one I sent you) was a 'dime' valve type, but was broken and unuseable.
Wait a minute...............I don't think I sent you a tank. That was another guy. I sent you something........but I can't remember what it was. I know you sent me a Mac carb. I was sending parts to many different AS members at that time.
And the 750 we were sending me???
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
watsonr
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Nope that would have been a 150. Still want it???
Nope, maybe I was mistaken... :msp_biggrin:
It's possible. Never seen a cap like yours on a C-series saw before. The cap that was on your tank (if it's the one I sent you) was a 'dime' valve type, but was broken and unuseable.
Wait a minute...............I don't think I sent you a tank. That was another guy. I sent you something........but I can't remember what it was. I know you sent me a Mac carb. I was sending parts to many different AS members at that time.
sounds like your memory is as bad as mine. seems like i pulled my old tank apart, cleaned it up, and it had a hole in it. i'm thinking you sent me the tank i have now. crap. now i gotta find a new cap. oy vay, whatcha gonna do
Homelite Super XL Auto
While we're "venting", let me tell you a problem I'm having with this Super XL Automatic. I have a leak in the seam of the fuel tank so I'm taking the side off this saw to get to it. Took the clutch off along with the oiler and the oiler sleeve but can't seem to get the housing off. I took the five bolts out of the case and although it feels loose I can't pull the thing off. What am I missing? I've done this job on an XL12 and the housing came right off after removing the bolts that circle the crankshaft. This seems different...
While we're "venting", let me tell you a problem I'm having with this Super XL Automatic. I have a leak in the seam of the fuel tank so I'm taking the side off this saw to get to it. Took the clutch off along with the oiler and the oiler sleeve but can't seem to get the housing off. I took the five bolts out of the case and although it feels loose I can't pull the thing off. What am I missing? I've done this job on an XL12 and the housing came right off after removing the bolts that circle the crankshaft. This seems different...
Here's a pic of the saw if I can get it to come up. I have an IPL but it's not much help.
Here's a pic of the saw if I can get it to come up. I have an IPL but it's not much help.
okay, i don't have an ipl and can't touch the saw, flame me if appropriate, but - when looking at your pix i'm wondering about those two hex head bolts directly above and below the studs?
wait! never mind, those are for the dawgs. duh.
maybe a gentle nudge with a rubber mallet?
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Not flaming anyone who tries to help. Those two bolts hold the felling dog on the saw. The housing is loose, I just can't pull it off the saw, it feels like there's no bolts in it but it only pulls so far and stops. One oil line is removed but not the other one and I can't figure how to get back there to remove the other one.
I might try that mallet trick. Sure don't want to pry on that magnesium though!
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Junior:
I have been wondering if, like the Remington PL/SL-4 types, you can remove the tank from the crankcase?
Makes a fuel tank swap easy.
Lombards come apart in the same manner. It has just been too long since I had an SXL or XL-12 apart. C.R.S.
I have been wondering if, like the Remington PL/SL-4 types, you can remove the tank from the crankcase?
Makes a fuel tank swap easy.
Lombards come apart in the same manner. It has just been too long since I had an SXL or XL-12 apart. C.R.S.
watsonr
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Here's a pic of the saw if I can get it to come up. I have an IPL but it's not much help.
Try the three bolts under the flywheel...
