Homelite Chainsaws

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Yep. Fuel tank comes off from the FW side on these saws. Don't hafta mess with the clutch side..

Ok, thanks. Well at least I'll be able to clean the saw better by tearing it all down. I kinda hate to pull some of these old flywheels that have been on for years, but I guess the clutch has too.

Update: I decided it wasn't too hot a 8:00 pm to do a little work on the saw. Pulled the flywheel, took the bolts out behind the reed plate and with a little tug the gas tank came out. That's not all my problem I guess, tried to take the little screws out of the gas tank and noticed they were sealed in there with..I don't know what. I do know that you can heat the little screws and they come out pretty easy. Problem is now, how am I gonna get the tank halves separated? It's sealed with a lot of epoxy looking stuff all around the perimeter of the tank. I kinda hate heating that gas tank with a torch or putting it in an oven or something. I guess now I should remove all the burnables from the tank, fuel line, grommet, gas cap. Anybody ever separated a tank before or should I look for another tank?
 
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That first one looks unvented. Not sure about the second one, as there's no 'underside' pic of it. An unvented cap won't work.

There are spendy new caps on feebay. They're the 'bronze filter' type that take the 69451 duckbill.


Homelite Super 1050, 1130G Gas Cap, Part # A-65741-A | eBay

genuine HOMELITE 65741 64140 gas fuel cap S1050A C5 C7 C9 C51 71 91 72 chain saw | eBay

This is the type that you want to find used, as you can easily replace the duckbill. The 'filter' easlily twists/pulls out, and presses back in once you clean it out and put a new duckbill in. I have a couple of these that are missing the bronze 'filters'. Somebody here said that Joyce (Chainsawlady) has some of those. I need to contact her about getting three or four of those filters....

If your 'dime' type caps have a center hole with a recess in it (like some of the caps I pictured in my earlier cap writeup), then you can probably put a 'filter' and duckbill in those in place of the NLA 'dime' valve. Might be able to drill one of the 'dime' caps that doesn't have a recess. Then you could use the 'filter' and duckbill combination. Not sure how well the bakelite caps would take to that. I have some 'dime' caps that don't have the recess, but are plastic instead of bakelite. May try drilling one of those as an experiment. It's a useless cap right now anyways......

I think I'll get some duckbills headed this way and try machining a cap and holder at work. I suspect that an end mill might be a bit nicer to brittle caps than a drill bit. Will report back when i get to it.
 
Ok, thanks. Well at least I'll be able to clean the saw better by tearing it all down. I kinda hate to pull some of these old flywheels that have been on for years, but I guess the clutch has too.

Best twenty bucks I have spent lately has been a harmonic balancer and steering wheel puller:rock: at Sears.

You will need to round up a couple #12-24 x 2 1/2" round head machine screws.
 
Homelite 330 Oiling Problems

Long story short, I rebuilt my 330 and it works flawlessly now, but it won't oil. First of all, I looked at the oil line and it was all cracked up. So I replaced it with the right line. Still would no work so today I unscrewed the oiler itself, and a bunch of oil dumped out from underneath it. So I quickly screwed it back on. I could see the oil moving through the oil line like it should.
So I took the saw out and did the 3/4 throttle trick over a big sheet of paper for a minute and no oil stains. looked at the chain and it was almost smoking from the friction heat. I then took the bar off and could see the oil seeping slowly from the hole were its suppose to come out of. So I slapped it back together again and did the same thing. Still no oil stains and the chain and bar was smoking this time.
The bar, chain, and the metal strips that go on each side of the bar are on properly. (The one with the slit in it that goes over the oil hole is on right and the other one with the slit in it for the tenshiner is on right also) I am out of options with this saw. And yes, it has oil in the tank.
 
Ok, thanks. Well at least I'll be able to clean the saw better by tearing it all down. I kinda hate to pull some of these old flywheels that have been on for years, but I guess the clutch has too.

Update: I decided it wasn't too hot a 8:00 pm to do a little work on the saw. Pulled the flywheel, took the bolts out behind the reed plate and with a little tug the gas tank came out. That's not all my problem I guess, tried to take the little screws out of the gas tank and noticed they were sealed in there with..I don't know what. I do know that you can heat the little screws and they come out pretty easy. Problem is now, how am I gonna get the tank halves separated? It's sealed with a lot of epoxy looking stuff all around the perimeter of the tank. I kinda hate heating that gas tank with a torch or putting it in an oven or something. I guess now I should remove all the burnables from the tank, fuel line, grommet, gas cap. Anybody ever separated a tank before or should I look for another tank?

Joe if you can't save that tank let me know. I can probably send you a useable tank for the cost of shipping. Won't be perfect, but it won't leak. Just let me know so I can pull it...
 
Joe if you can't save that tank let me know. I can probably send you a useable tank for the cost of shipping. Won't be perfect, but it won't leak. Just let me know so I can pull it...

Aaron, I'll let you know, right now I'm thinking about blow torching around the edge to see if it'll loosen. I think the only thing wrong is the sealer came out of the back end of the tank...previous owner had it marked where the leak was. I've set it aside for awhile and am working on two others that are closer to being fixed. My hours are limited per day because of the extreme heat we've been having. Thanks for the offer. Joe
 
Long story short, I rebuilt my 330 and it works flawlessly now, but it won't oil. First of all, I looked at the oil line and it was all cracked up. So I replaced it with the right line. Still would no work so today I unscrewed the oiler itself, and a bunch of oil dumped out from underneath it. So I quickly screwed it back on. I could see the oil moving through the oil line like it should.
So I took the saw out and did the 3/4 throttle trick over a big sheet of paper for a minute and no oil stains. looked at the chain and it was almost smoking from the friction heat. I then took the bar off and could see the oil seeping slowly from the hole were its suppose to come out of. So I slapped it back together again and did the same thing. Still no oil stains and the chain and bar was smoking this time.
The bar, chain, and the metal strips that go on each side of the bar are on properly. (The one with the slit in it that goes over the oil hole is on right and the other one with the slit in it for the tenshiner is on right also) I am out of options with this saw. And yes, it has oil in the tank.

Hi
I had a similar problem and after weeks of head scratching it turned out the oil hole in the bar got closed off by the chain guide plates when I lifted the bar nose to tighten the bar nuts. It all looked fine and lined up nice when on the bench but the tolerances stacked up the wrong way when the nose of the bar was lifted. This may not be the problem with your saw but its worth 30 seconds for a look.
Good luck
 
Aaron, I'll let you know, right now I'm thinking about blow torching around the edge to see if it'll loosen. I think the only thing wrong is the sealer came out of the back end of the tank...previous owner had it marked where the leak was. I've set it aside for awhile and am working on two others that are closer to being fixed. My hours are limited per day because of the extreme heat we've been having. Thanks for the offer. Joe

Well, I braved the 100 degree heat today and got the blow torch out and loosened all the bolts from the tank and popped the cover off it, scraped the surface and re-sealed it and applied a coat of red paint. I sealed the tank halves together with JB Weld then put the screws back in it. I hope I fixed it so it wouldn't leak, we'll find out if I get the saw put back together. One problem I have is that someone apparently was having trouble putting the long carb screws in that hold it to the reed plate and they cut one of them off, now it's too short to install. I'm pretty sure the local hardware will have something to fit it.
 
47b6a6a7-7eeb-c22d.jpg

Big Homey day
 

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