Homelite Chainsaws

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you have to remember my age Aaron--didn't even have a beer yet. maybe that was my finger problem. i have a short bar but saw the 2 on e-bay. seems a long bars are pretty scarce. the specs say longest bar was 30". they just look odd with the big eng and little bar. this saw will never be started by me, so technically i could make it work i guess. thanks for the info. will get your parts to ya sooner or later.--------- kimble
 
Saweeeet 2000 Watsonr, Even has the
rear cylinder cover thats usually long gone.
Looks to be in better shape than the ones
iv'e seen lately.

Congrats



Lee
 
1973 XL-12 and Super XL

Just picked up these bad boys for $10 a piece. Bot have excellent spark, good compression, and decent looking pistons. XL-12s piston and cylinder is in a little better condition. SXL gas line is cracked and the other saws does not look much better. Figured a good carb cleaning and some fresh lines and the'll be ready to rock n roll. Just am having some problems with the handle bar fitting on the XL-12. When I got it the handle bar mount was busted in half and the bar was completely off. The guy have me another handle bar which had the blue mount attached to it. You can see in the pic that the bottom of the handle bar is bent out and will not bend back in.
I thought the bar was bent, so I took one off a junker SXL and it fit the same way. So apparently a SXL handle bar will not fit on a XL-12? Or am I doing it wrong?
View attachment 264734View attachment 264735
 
Homelite 2 3/16" dia. piston

What Homelites used a 2 3/16" dia. piston?

While searching thur Jeff's Homlite parts we came accross this piston but it was a 1/16" too small to fit my Homie 2000.


Close but no cigar.................................................................................
 
Just picked up these bad boys for $10 a piece. Bot have excellent spark, good compression, and decent looking pistons. XL-12s piston and cylinder is in a little better condition. SXL gas line is cracked and the other saws does not look much better. Figured a good carb cleaning and some fresh lines and the'll be ready to rock n roll. Just am having some problems with the handle bar fitting on the XL-12. When I got it the handle bar mount was busted in half and the bar was completely off. The guy have me another handle bar which had the blue mount attached to it. You can see in the pic that the bottom of the handle bar is bent out and will not bend back in.
I thought the bar was bent, so I took one off a junker SXL and it fit the same way. So apparently a SXL handle bar will not fit on a XL-12? Or am I doing it wrong?
View attachment 264734View attachment 264735

Nope, SXL is wider (oil pump).

I may have a XL-12 front wrap.

I need one for a XL-113 and one for a XL-925.
 
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Alright Homo-lite fans, some more pics.

This is the spike (on the right) that came with the 2000, obvious its from a 925 series, the real spike (for a 2000/2100) next to it. The smaller one does fit, there is an extra hole in the case to accommodate the smaller spike. The left one is, I believe, the original spike, not a west coast spike, but a good one for bucking logs!! Notice the fresh saw dust....
utf-8BSU1BRzAxMTcuanBn.jpg


Super 2100 on the left, 2000 on the right. You can see the difference in size, especially in the starter and in the cylinder cover. The 2000 starter cover I believe will interchange with a 1050 Super, they look identical.
utf-8BSU1BRzAxMTYuanBn.jpg


Same height and feel very close in weight. The 2100 and 2000 share the same muffler cover and the clutch also, but I really like the 2100 Supers cover. The 2000 has a bent and broken bar, right at the joint for the tank leg:msp_sad:
utf-8BSU1BRzAxMTUuanBn.jpg


I did run the saw today, no video, it was near dark.. but, it ran well. Fuel system got a new fuel line in and out of the tank, new filter and checked the carb. Seller had put it away dry years ago, compression is stout and I used the decomp to start it, first couple pulls almost jerked my arm out of socket! It ran unbelievably well for a saw not run in almost 15-20 years. Needs a bigger bar for sure, the 33" roller nose is nice but not long enough! Now I need a big log to cut a couple cookies from.... to compare the 2100 against the 2000 of course:msp_biggrin:
 
What Homelites used a 2 3/16" dia. piston?

While searching thur Jeff's Homlite parts we came accross this piston but it was a 1/16" too small to fit my Homie 2000.


Close but no cigar.................................................................................

Maybe a 900/909/990/995? or maybe a 750/650?
 
If my memory is correct, The 900, 909, 990 and 995
have a 2 5/16 bore. I believe the 2 3/16 bore is the
9-23 and 9-26 100cc saws.
The 2000, 2100, and 750 are a 2.250 bore.




Lee
 
Man that's something. I never know that they made a 'manual oiler only' version of these saws by omitting the fitting on the crankcase, the pressure line, the connector, and the duckbill.................and fitting that stupid 'primer' type fuel cap on the oil tank.

I think you just need to get the crankcase fitting (or source something similar from some place like McMaster-Karr), drill and tap your crankcase for that fitting (if it doesn't already have a tapped hole with a plug in it), drill a second hole in your oil tank, run a line from your new fitting into the oil tank, and put a length of brass tube (or the bronze 'connector') and a duckbill on the end of that line inside the tank.


OK, I think I have it figured out how I can get the oiler to work and at the same time convert it to an auto oiler. On a whim I purchased an auto oiler system "kit", which contains the tank, hoses and check valve. It is found -HERE-. Upon receiving it I read the instructions and noticed it now needs to connect to the pulse line from the carb. Guess what....the Walbro HDA60 which it came with does not have a pulse line fitting to connect to. So I then found the IPL from a slightly different model LX-30 Bandit (UT-10716-D) which came stock with the tank kit I just purchased. That had a part number for the correct carburetor. I did a search on eBay and found a NOS one found -HERE-. In is description it confirms it will work on a UT-10716-D LX30. I emailed the guy to make sure it has the pulse line fitting. If it does, which it should, I will be ordering that. This carb along with the oil tank kit should be what I need to get this thing working. All I need to do is remove the existing nipple on the bar plate and replace it with the one that came with the kit which has a check valve in it.

The UT-10716-D IPL can be found -HERE-. This is basically what I will be converting mine to be.

My question is this, does anybody know what Walbro carb came on these saws which has the pulse line fitting? I know my HDA60 doesn't. I believe the WTA20 and WTA25 do, but which one is the proper carb for the XL/LX30?
 
Shot in the dark.

The piston ring land on my 2000 is broken out on the exhaust port side. Would it be possible to use a piston for a Poulan 655 in a Homelite 2000? Both are 2.250" bore.

Here is one on evilbay: POULAN 655 PIONEER 62 P62 PISTON AND RINGS CHAINSAW STBX782 | eBay

Anyone in the situation that they could compare both side by side?

As long as wrist pin dia. is the same and crown height is close. Skirt can be shortened in a lathe.
 
What Homelites used a 2 3/16" dia. piston?

While searching thur Jeff's Homlite parts we came accross this piston but it was a 1/16" too small to fit my Homie 2000.


Close but no cigar.................................................................................

9-23 and 9-26 are the only ones I know of with that bore. I have a NOS piston, hoping to find a NOS cylinder today.

Chris B.
 
All the 1000, 1020, 1050, 1100, 1130 saws have a 2-3/16" bore... There were at least 2 different pistons used on this series.

(and I forgot) the 700 series direct and gear drives had 2-3/16" bores also. At least 2 different pistons used in this group as well (775 had a unique one). So, counting the 9-23/9-26, there's at least 5 possibilites a 2-3/16" piston could be.

Dan
 
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So if one were to pick up a Homelite piston that was 1-13/16" diameter, would that work in any saw that had that size bore, or did Homelite use that bore with different pistons (pin diameter, overall height, etc)?

No, I haven't even seen it yet, but I'm trying to get there to check out some parts... This is for an SXL. I haven't been that far in to a saw before, so this is all new to me... Just hate to see a good condition saw (externally) sitting around dead due to a toasted piston...

-Tim
 
Nope, SXL is wider (oil pump).

I may have a XL-12 front wrap.

I need one for a XL-113 and one for a XL-925.

That handlebar was either a bent to hell XL-12 bar or a SXL bar but I got it to fit. Could not bend it in the vise so I took a blow torch and some channel locks to it. Fits good now :msp_biggrin:...just looks a little...well un-stock. Nice and sturdy.
 
So if one were to pick up a Homelite piston that was 1-13/16" diameter, would that work in any saw that had that size bore, or did Homelite use that bore with different pistons (pin diameter, overall height, etc)?

No, I haven't even seen it yet, but I'm trying to get there to check out some parts... This is for an SXL. I haven't been that far in to a saw before, so this is all new to me... Just hate to see a good condition saw (externally) sitting around dead due to a toasted piston...

-Tim

It would mostly likely be different from model to model. Some might be interchangeable. The SXL is a very easy saw to work on. Very easy to get to the piston. but if you are tearing it down all the way your gonna need a press or homemade tool to get the crankshaft to fit back in to the clutch side half. This is so because the ball bearing (flywheel side has a caged needle) is a pressed fit into that half. You can't tap on the flywheel side of the crankshaft because you will most likely bend the shaft since the crank pin is at the edge of the flyweights. I am not sure if the older models have the worm gear for the oiler, but I do know that they newer ones do. The flywheel side crank seal is also no longer available. Can't even get it through a major seal company. But you can get the clutch side seal easily. Also the connecting rod torque is 55 inch pounds...and you can hold in the needles with grease. Hope this helps.
 
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