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ChainLightning said:
It would mostly likely be different from model to model. Some might be interchangeable. The SXL is a very easy saw to work on. Very easy to get to the piston. but if you are tearing it down all the way your gonna need a press or homemade tool to get the crankshaft to fit back in to the clutch side half. This is so because the ball bearing (flywheel side has a caged needle) is a pressed fit into that half. You can't tap on the flywheel side of the crankshaft because you will most likely bend the shaft since the crank pin is at the edge of the flyweights. I am not sure if the older models have the worm gear for the oiler, but I do know that they newer ones do. The flywheel side crank seal is also no longer available. Can't even get it through a major seal company. But you can get the clutch side seal easily. Also the connecting rod torque is 55 inch pounds...and you can hold in the needles with grease. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks, the info sure can't hurt... No issue with a press.. I've got a few in various sizes... New to chainsaws, not new to bearings/seals...
55 in/lbs... Apparently I need to get a smaller torque wrench... Its always something...

-Tim
 
Toolslinger said:
Thanks, the info sure can't hurt... No issue with a press.. I've got a few in various sizes... New to chainsaws, not new to bearings/seals...
55 in/lbs... Apparently I need to get a smaller torque wrench... Its always something...

-Tim
Click to expand...

The connecting rod bolts are hex head. So you will need hex sockets. but everything else is pretty much a flathead 5/16 combination. Also on those models to get the flywheel off you need to hit the flywheel on the non magnetic side and pry from the back with a long screwdriver at the same time. They usually pop right off with a good tap, but these ones can be a pain sometimes. Then it never hurts to clean the points while your at it if its the older models.
You will probably need to clean that cylinder up too if it has a roached piston. You can do that with meriadic acid. just dab on small amounts of it on the scratches. Being careful not to get it into the ports or the top of the cylinder. Keep a eye on it and wash it out with lots of water after it eats the aluminum scratches. Then you can sand it smooth with extremely fine 1000 or 1200 grit sandpaper. Just make sure you only get that acid on the scratches and nothing else.
 
ChainLightning said:
The connecting rod bolts are hex head. So you will need hex sockets. but everything else is pretty much a flathead 5/16 combination. Also on those models to get the flywheel off you need to hit the flywheel on the non magnetic side and pry from the back with a long screwdriver at the same time. They usually pop right off with a good tap, but these ones can be a pain sometimes. Then it never hurts to clean the points while your at it if its the older models.
You will probably need to clean that cylinder up too if it has a roached piston. You can do that with meriadic acid. just dab on small amounts of it on the scratches. Being careful not to get it into the ports or the top of the cylinder. Keep a eye on it and wash it out with lots of water after it eats the aluminum scratches. Then you can sand it smooth with extremely fine 1000 or 1200 grit sandpaper. Just make sure you only get that acid on the scratches and nothing else.
Click to expand...

It really helps to heat the cylinder to about 150 DEG F before applying the muriatic acid. The gas is extremely noxious so it's best done in a well ventilated area or outside. Wear hand and eye protection. Easiest to apply with Q-tips so you can be accurate.
 
Toolslinger said:
So if one were to pick up a Homelite piston that was 1-13/16" diameter, would that work in any saw that had that size bore, or did Homelite use that bore with different pistons (pin diameter, overall height, etc)?

No, I haven't even seen it yet, but I'm trying to get there to check out some parts... This is for an SXL. I haven't been that far in to a saw before, so this is all new to me... Just hate to see a good condition saw (externally) sitting around dead due to a toasted piston...

-Tim
Click to expand...

I've seen several adds for SXL piston w/rings on evilbay. Try here:Home & Garden > Yard, Garden & Outdoor Living > Outdoor Power Equipment > Chainsaw Parts & Accs | eBay

Use "Homelite piston" for your search. They run 40-50 USD with the shipping.
 
67L36Driver said:
If anyone wants me to, I can pick up the 2 3/16" dia. Homelite piston from Jeff.

It's a pig in a poke but who knows......................................................................
Click to expand...

I'll take a chance. I'm very interested.
I have a use for it. Have a couple different
models with bad pistons.


Thanks Lee
 
67L36Driver said:
I've seen several adds for SXL piston w/rings on evilbay. Try here:Home & Garden > Yard, Garden & Outdoor Living > Outdoor Power Equipment > Chainsaw Parts & Accs | eBay

Use "Homelite piston" for your search. They run 40-50 USD with the shipping.
Click to expand...

Yea, I've seen them too. That's a bit north of what I'd prefer to spend on a saw that I don't need (we are not discussing "want" that's irrelevant). We'll see how things turn out on my parts hunting expedition Sunday... Perhaps I'll get lucky.
 
Needed a picture... here's one.
utf-8BSU1BRzAwNTMuanBn.jpg
 
Last edited:
Question my homelite E-Z (non-super) the oil pump appears to work somewhat at idle (no bar on) but at speed with bar it doesn't oil. Do these have issues with stripping oil pump gears?

What is the best way to remove the clutch on this model? This one has a rim drive so it needs a rim as well while I'm at it.

Anything else special to look for on the oil pump? Manual button works fine.
 
struggle said:
Question my homelite E-Z (non-super) the oil pump appears to work somewhat at idle (no bar on) but at speed with bar it doesn't oil. Do these have issues with stripping oil pump gears?

What is the best way to remove the clutch on this model? This one has a rim drive so it needs a rim as well while I'm at it.

Anything else special to look for on the oil pump? Manual button works fine.
Click to expand...

Does it have a adjuster screw on it to control how much oil comes out?
 
I Blame You People!!!

Yes, I blame each and every one of you... I just went out to try to find a new piston for an SXL...

What the heck am I going to do with half a milk crate of dogs, or 20+ carbs, or a beer case full of misc carb rebuild kits...
I've got enough new recoil springs to outfit a Stihl shop apparently... There are a pile of others that I have to figure out what they go to...
There's a box of oil lines that would take me a life time to ID let alone need, or use... I've cornered the market on Homelite A-97117 fuel shutoff valves which I think are for some of their trimmers... 40 or 50 of those... Got a couple NOS cranks for one of the Homelite demo saws too... I'm sure there's more since I haven't gone through it all yet...

Parts for the SXL? I haven't the foggiest... I'd bet I have a carb for it, and the dog though most of the dogs are for big saws... Probably oil lines... The pistons are all for air compressors as far as I can tell...

Yea, I know... Photos, or it didn't happen... I gotta find someplace to lay all this stuff out...
 

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