4000 is ok but not perfect. I have several right now that need a little love.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Thanks by the way!
Will find out, but first.......
Micro ball valve? If so please share the source!
Pawfly 6 PCS 1-Way Aquarium Air Flow Control Lever Straight Valve Distributor Splitter for Fish Tank https://a.co/d/4bgreSq
For the record, opening the oil cap when you are finished running it will also relieve the pressure in the oil tank and minimize any oil that might leak out.
Welcome smartgunn, I used to visit Thailand on a pretty regular basis. I still enjoy my Healthy Boy a few time every week.
Mark
Welcome smartgunn, I used to visit Thailand on a pretty regular basis. I still enjoy my Healthy Boy a few time every week.
Mark
Now a question of my own...I have a Super Wiz 66 undergoing cleaning and repairs and find the flywheel and crankshaft are damaged. I believe I can clean up the crankshaft well enough to work but the flywheel is cracked in the I.D.
Does anyone know offhand which other saw or saws would use the same flywheel? Remember this is a single reduction gear drive saw and the engine runs "backwards" compared to a direct drive saw.
Thank you,
Mark
Does anyone know offhand which other saw or saws would use the same flywheel? Remember this is a single reduction gear drive saw and the engine runs "backwards" compared to a direct drive saw.
Thank you,
Mark
Thanks
Similarly, on a mission trip to an orphanage in Costa Rica, I got hooked on " salsa lizzano" . It is an amazing sauce. Will see if I can scrounge up a pic.
Chainsaw Collectors
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That’s very nice.
Looks like any of the Super Wiz saws, 55, 66, 80 and the 770G and 775G will work. Do you have the Wico number on that flywheel? FW-????
It is a Phelon.
I'm guessing someone ran it with the flywheel loose.
Mark
I'm guessing someone ran it with the flywheel loose.
Mark
I will check my parts Wiz, see if there is a proper flywheel on it. Here's the correct flywheel (I believe) on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1660720061...3VGR0obRKC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1660720061...3VGR0obRKC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Also, that was one hell of a good key to stay intact and tear the crank out that bad. Gotta wonder how the operator didn't notice any rattling.
SXL925 cont.. working on a Jonsereds 90 last couple days that would fire and run for a second on priming the carb jogged my memory that I never got the SXL 925 running. when I was messing with it quite a while back I had my first medical issue, with a couple of days in hospital and a couple months in bed. turned out to be not as bad as the doctors thought so doing well, just not quite as active but distracted me from a few things.
quite a while back I got this saw in what appears to be little used condition. just like the J-red (which is fixed now), it will fire and run for a second on priming the carb. I had cleaned the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter and all the fuel lines (except the metal one of course). I had also kitted the carb after cleaning it and shooting carb cleaner thru all the passages. including removing the welch plugs. getting plenty of fuel to the carb, in fact it pours out of the fuel line when the carb is disconnected.
removed the carb again today and decided to focus on the impulse passage so I removed the intake manifold (man those 3 screws were not wanting to come out) and the reed block to make sure the impulse passage was clear all the way to the crankcase, which it is.
my question this afternoon: when I removed the reed block, the 4 reeds just fell off. each reed locates on 2 pins on the reed block but they just hang there, nothing to keep them on. how do you guys keep those on when re-installing the reed block? a small dab of grease maybe? kind of surprised that they don't have a friction fit on the plastic pins to hold them in place.
will be going back thru the carb again next to see if I screwed up it the last time.
quite a while back I got this saw in what appears to be little used condition. just like the J-red (which is fixed now), it will fire and run for a second on priming the carb. I had cleaned the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter and all the fuel lines (except the metal one of course). I had also kitted the carb after cleaning it and shooting carb cleaner thru all the passages. including removing the welch plugs. getting plenty of fuel to the carb, in fact it pours out of the fuel line when the carb is disconnected.
removed the carb again today and decided to focus on the impulse passage so I removed the intake manifold (man those 3 screws were not wanting to come out) and the reed block to make sure the impulse passage was clear all the way to the crankcase, which it is.
my question this afternoon: when I removed the reed block, the 4 reeds just fell off. each reed locates on 2 pins on the reed block but they just hang there, nothing to keep them on. how do you guys keep those on when re-installing the reed block? a small dab of grease maybe? kind of surprised that they don't have a friction fit on the plastic pins to hold them in place.
will be going back thru the carb again next to see if I screwed up it the last time.
This flexible retainer fits over the pyramid and clamps the reeds. It is probably still in the manifold. Use oil or grease to stick the reeds to the pyramid and reassemble. The retainer can get hard with age and leak air. There are new ones out there. Finally, make darned sure the reeds are in good repair. I had one break and tear a piston up.
thanks. I'll go back out to the shop and see what I missed. the reeds are in very nice shape.
feel pretty dumb after looking at that. thought it was just a rubber gasket and never took it out, should have seen the little channels for the pins. put it all back together just now. will delve into the carb again tomorrow. thank you very much.
